Multipitch Atlas

Kabarett Drusenfluh

Gelbeck east face (Drusenfluh) · Rätikon (Montafon) · Austria

Easy to bailBolting confidence: high

One of the first modern routes on the front, lower part of the Gelbeck east face: five long pitches of varied, often athletic and exposed limestone climbing. The last two pitches are on heavily water-eroded rock full of drip features.

The Drusenfluh massif from the north, seen from Rellseck above Bartholomäberg. The Gelbeck is a buttress low on this side of the mountain above the Gauertal; the wall and the line are not identified in this view.Photo: Reinhard Müller · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

The Drusenfluh massif from the north, seen from Rellseck above Bartholomäberg. The Gelbeck is a buttress low on this side of the mountain above the Gauertal; the wall and the line are not identified in this view.Photo: Reinhard Müller · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6b
Pitches
5
Length
220 m
Approach
210 min
Aspect
E
East-facing
Rope
2×60 m

The route

Overview

A five-pitch sport route in a high mountain setting above the Lindauer Hütte, first climbed in 2003 and rebolted at the belays in 2020. After an easy opening pitch the climbing stays at UIAA 6+ to 7- with an obligatory grade of 6+, on steep and exposed rock. The top two pitches climb sculpted, water-eaten limestone. Its belays serve as the abseil descent for the neighbouring routes, so you may meet other parties on the way down.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeNotes
P15aEasy opening pitch (UIAA 5). Grade read from the hut's photo-topo; no pitch description is published.
P26a+/6bUIAA 7-. Grade read from the hut's photo-topo; no pitch description is published.
P36a/6a+UIAA 6+. Grade read from the hut's photo-topo; no pitch description is published.
P46a+/6bUIAA 7-, on water-eroded rock with drip features.
P56a+/6bUIAA 7-, more sculpted limestone to the top belay.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Turn off towards the Montafon at Bludenz and drive to Tschagguns, then right up to Latschau and the car park at the Lünerseewerk power station by the Golmerbahn valley station (about 990 m). By public transport, take bus line 1 from Tschagguns railway station to Latschau Golmerbahn Talstation. From there walk up the Gauertal to the Lindauer Hütte (1744 m), about 2.5 hours; most parties stay at the hut.

On foot · about 210 min

From the Lindauer Hütte take the path towards the Öfapass. After the first steep step turn left towards the Eistobel and follow faint tracks, partly cairned, to the foot of the Gelbeck east face, which rises on your right. The start is a little right of the long grass ridge in the front part of the east face and right of the obvious grey water streak that runs down the right-hand third of the face, at about 2120 m. About 1 hour from the hut.

Map of the walk-in

  • Route base
  • Parking

Loading map

The point marks the base of the route.

Coordinates · route base

47.03292, 9.80910

Parking

47.07256, 9.87418

Car park at the Lünerseewerk, Latschau

Point from Start coordinates published on the Lindauer Hütte route page

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Abseil the route in three: 55 m, 45 m and 60 m. The first abseil hangs free and you need a slight swing, but the belay is easy to reach. On the last abseil you can land a little towards the start of Skandal um Rosi. Shorter ropes also work because there are plenty of belays.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Easy to bail

Abseiling the route is the normal descent and the hut states that there are plenty of belays, so shorter ropes also work. The top abseil is free-hanging and needs a small swing to reach the belay.

Retreat from
Any belay.
Point of no return
None documented.
Carry
Two ropes; 60 m for the described three-abseil descent.
Basis
Stated in the sourcesAbseil lengths, the free-hanging first abseil and the remark about shorter ropes are from the Lindauer Hütte route page.

Safety

Hazards

  • The first abseil on the Kabarett Drusenfluh line is 55 m and free-hanging; you need a slight swing to reach the belay.
  • Alpine setting at over 2100 m, about three hours from the road: weather changes, storms and a long way down if something goes wrong.
  • Only one detailed source exists for this route, written by one of the first ascensionists; no independent trip reports were found.

Sun and weather

Conditions

An east to north-east facing limestone wall starting at about 2100 m, so a high-summer route with morning sun (season inferred from altitude and aspect; the sources give no months). The hut pages note that water runs down parts of the Gelbeck after rain and suggest combining pitches of neighbouring routes when one line is wet. Expect snow at the foot of the wall early in the season and afternoon thunderstorms in summer (inferred).

Usual season · Jul to Sep

Sun on the wall · E-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C−6−4−137111414106−0−5
Mean daily low °C−15−14−10−7−31340−4−9−14
Rain days 1 mm or more131316162121201816131314

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2092 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

14 quickdraws, extendable slings, helmet. Two 60 m ropes are useful for the three long abseils; with shorter ropes use the intermediate belays.

Checklist

Quickdraws
14
Rope
2×60 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Kabarett Drusenfluh.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Pitches are up to 50 m long, so carry enough quickdraws and extend them.
  • Allow 3 to 4 hours on the route.
  • If part of the wall is wet, the hut suggests mixing pitches with Skandal um Rosi to the left.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Pitch count and lengths: the page says five pitches of up to 50 m, yet its own abseil description includes a 55 m and a 60 m abseil; the topo shows five graded pitches (5, 7-, 6+, 7-, 7-).
  • Conversion: UIAA 7- is given here as 6a+/6b and the card uses 6b; no source gives a French grade.
  • Individual pitch lengths are not published for this route.

Provenance

Sources

Same area

More in Rätikon (Montafon)

All routes in Rätikon (Montafon)
The Lindauer Hütte in winter beneath the Drei Türme; the sunlit yellow buttress on the right, north of the towers, is where the route coordinates place the Gelbeck. The exact line is not marked.

Austria · Rätikon (Montafon)

Sorgafresser

Seven long pitches of varied climbing on mostly very good Rätikon limestone above the Lindauer Hütte, UIAA 7 with 7- obligatory. The last two pitches are very athletic and exposed. Well bolted, but the setting is high and remote.

6b+7 pitches300 m

The Drusenfluh massif from the north, seen from Rellseck above Bartholomäberg. The Gelbeck is a buttress low on this side of the mountain above the Gauertal; the wall and the line are not identified in this view.

Austria · Rätikon (Montafon)

Skandal um Rosi

Five homogeneous pitches of fine, varied limestone climbing on the Gelbeck east face, almost always between UIAA 6 and 7 and hardly ever easier. An overhanging arête on the last pitch is the tricky bit.

6b+5 pitches220 m

The Drusenfluh massif from the north, seen from Rellseck above Bartholomäberg. The Gelbeck is a buttress low on this side of the mountain above the Gauertal; the wall and the line are not identified in this view.

Austria · Rätikon (Montafon)

Rätikon Lyrics

A sporty 2020 line of cracks, corners, pillars and water-eroded slabs up to mid-height, then spectacular, steep and airy climbing to the top belay it shares with Kabarett Drusenfluh. Two pitches of UIAA 7+, with a few aid points on the last.

6c6 pitches170 m

The Drusenfluh massif from the north, seen from Rellseck above Bartholomäberg. The Gelbeck is a buttress low on this side of the mountain above the Gauertal; the wall and the line are not identified in this view.

Austria · Rätikon (Montafon)

Alchemist

Starts up an inclined slab at the lowest point of the Gelbeck, climbs three long, easier pitches through the front spur to a sloping ledge, then finishes with two very steep wall pitches on sharp solution pockets that most parties climb with a few aid moves.

6c5 pitches200 m

Around 6b · about 5 pitches

Similar elsewhere

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Beam me up Scotty

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Italy · Sardinia

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This is the easiest way to the top of Sardinia's iconic 140 m pinnacle above Cala Goloritzè. Short technical bulges and walls lead to a fine slab finish, and the harder overhangs can be aided. Gulliver splits it into 4 pitches; camptocamp gives 5. Check seasonal access rules for Cala Goloritzè before going.

6b5 pitches150 m

Read the cautions

Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.