Falesie di Masua (Iglesiente) · Sardinia · Italy
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
A short but superb sea-cliff route on beautifully sculpted limestone in an incredible setting near Pan di Zucchero. Corners and an airy pillar lead to a steep, rounded 6a wall. Camptocamp rates it 'great'.
The route
A short four-pitch route up the pillar of the same name on the Masua cliffs, above the old mine workings and facing Pan di Zucchero. Two red corners, an airy sculpted pillar and a steep final crack-chimney on rounded holds give varied climbing on very good rock. It was re-bolted in stainless steel in 2012 specifically to give Masua an easy, friendly multipitch, and it is the easiest long route on the cliff. Expect a relaxed outing of about 110 to 120 m with close bolts and comfortable belays.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c+ | 40 m | 15 bolts | Climb the first red corner (the second bolt line from the right) to a sustained finish, mantel onto a small terrace, then a second corner with a delicate exit to a chained belay on a small platform. Keep to the left-hand line of bolts; the line on the right is Diedro delle mie Brame. Other reports put this pitch at about 25 m. |
| P2 | 5b | 15 m | 4 bolts | A short wall, then a small exposed traverse left round a corner to a chained belay. Grey rock with slightly slick water-drops. In April 2024 a very large block came off this pitch just past the fourth bolt (see hazards). Variant: from belay 1 go straight up the corner at 6a to belay 3. |
| P3 | 5c | 20 m | 5 bolts | Steep wall with an athletic mantel onto a step, then an exposed pillar on beautifully sculpted rock to the chained belay on top of the pillar, or the next one just beyond on the following wall. Short and a bit fiddly; it has both new and very old bolts. |
| P4 | 6a | 40 m | 10 bolts | The best pitch: a steep wall and wide crack or chimney with a slightly overhanging section on rounded but positive holds (most of the good ones are inside, on the right wall), exit right, then easy sculpted steps to the chained belay. Graded 5c on Gulliver. |
Getting there
From Cagliari take the SS130 towards Iglesias; about 5 km after Iglesias turn right for Nebida and continue to Masua. From Masua follow signs to the beach (tarmac; paid parking in summer), then towards the mines and Porto Flavia on a driveable road that climbs at first. Pass a pine wood and a small bridge and park in the signed car park just below (the road is gated further on). A 2025 report says this car park is free.
10 to 20 minutes. From the car park walk along the road towards the mine. Just before the ticket hut and refreshment stall at the mine entrance, steps on the right with a 'climbing' sign lead to a steep path (the one for the Castello dell'Iride crag). Leave it where the two rockfall fences overlap, pass between them and follow the fence, then head up towards the pillar to fixed ropes that lead onto a small terrace at the start. The name is written at the base; do not continue down the path. The route shares the terrace with Diedro delle mie Brame, which starts a few metres to the right. These two are the first multipitch routes you reach and the only ones with names painted.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Masua - Porto Flavia (camptocamp access point)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 630606
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 39.33751, 8.41043 (crag) · Parking: 39.33659, 8.41621
Getting down
Abseil. Camptocamp gives three abseils down the route (R4, R2, R1) with 50 m abseil ropes. Many parties instead abseil the neighbouring Diedro delle mie Brame: three abseils with a single 70 m rope, or two with 2×60 m. A 2026 party used R4, R3 and the first belay of the route to the right. Alternatively continue from a belay just left of the last one up the final two pitches of Le Grand Mammouth (about 5c and 5c+/6a) to the top of the pillar and walk off in about 30 minutes: follow cairns uphill for 5 minutes, pick up the path back to the foot of the cliffs and take a turn-off to the right after an iron ladder.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Yes. Abseiling the route is the normal descent and every belay is chained, so you can turn round at any stance. Camptocamp gives the abseils as R4, R2, R1 with 50 m ropes. The line is short and close to vertical, with only a small traverse left on pitch 2.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing and low above the sea: in full sun for most of the day and hot in summer; in shade from about 15:00 in late May. Best from autumn to spring. Some wind at the top of the pillar.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Sardinia are not available yet
What to carry
2×50 m ropes, or a single 70 m (PlanetMountain's recommendation for the descent). 15 quickdraws for pitch 1 if you clip everything (PlanetMountain says 10). Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to L'Italia Liberata.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Italy · Sardinia
An airy, mostly left-rising traverse that spirals round the Pedra Longa sea stack to its summit, on water-runnelled grey walls and pocketed white rock right above the sea. It has become one of the most popular routes in Sardinia, so expect queues.
6a+7 pitches190 m
Committing
Italy · Sardinia
This is the easiest way to the top of Sardinia's iconic 140 m pinnacle above Cala Goloritzè. Short technical bulges and walls lead to a fine slab finish, and the harder overhangs can be aided. Gulliver splits it into 4 pitches; camptocamp gives 5. Check seasonal access rules for Cala Goloritzè before going.
6b5 pitches150 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Sardinia
The easiest line on the Capo Caccia sea cliff: six pitches of 4b to 4c on pocketed, sharply sculpted limestone above the open sea. You abseil in from the top and climb out. The first two pitches are vegetated; the climbing proper starts on the pitch 3 slab.
4c6 pitches145 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Italy · Sardinia
An easy and popular line on the big amphitheatre above Cala Gonone: three 4c pitches of juggy steps and easy-angled slabs, a short walk left through bushes, then a 35 m wall of heavily sculpted rock at 5a. Expect queues.
5a4 pitches120 m
Around 6a · about 4 pitches
Spain · Montserrat
An exposed, airy line with unusually good holes and jugs for Montserrat, shaded in the afternoon. The 6a pitch is a sustained vertical 20 m. Going straight up instead of following the line is closer to 6b+.
6a4 pitches140 m
Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)
A popular modern four-pitch classic on Pared Negra's compact grey limestone, around UIAA 6/6+ (about French 6a). Best on cool, sunny winter days.
6a4 pitches150 m
Spain · El Chorro
A popular, sunny short multipitch in one of the easier Frontales sectors. Mostly 5/5+, with a brief 6a crux.
6a4 pitches130 m
Switzerland · Grimsel
A short, varied granite route up a pale, smooth pillar across the valley from the Handegg slabs: a corner crack, then friction and edge slabs that get harder pitch by pitch. Grades are stiff, and the last pitch is sustained and tricky. A good half day or uncertain-weather route with a 15-minute approach.
6a5 pitches200 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.