La Poltrona (Cala Gonone) · Sardinia · Italy
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
An easy and popular line on the big amphitheatre above Cala Gonone: three 4c pitches of juggy steps and easy-angled slabs, a short walk left through bushes, then a 35 m wall of heavily sculpted rock at 5a. Expect queues.
The route
Lilith climbs the slabs and walls below and left of the main face of La Poltrona, the half-moon amphitheatre that overlooks Cala Gonone. It is four short pitches, never harder than 5a, on excellent rock, and you abseil back down it. Because it is so accessible it is busy: an October 2025 party queued at the start and at every belay. The same party continued up the top pitches of Deutsch Wall (6c, 6b) from the last belay.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4c | 20 m | 8 bolts | Short walls on big holds to a belay on two unlinked ring bolts. |
| P2 | 4c | 20 m | 5 bolts | Easy-angled slabs; the bolts are further apart here. |
| P3 | 4c | 20 m | 4 bolts | More easy-angled slabs to the belay. From here walk left through the bushes to the foot of the upper wall. |
| P4 | 5a | 35 m | 6 bolts | A superb wall of very sculpted rock, with spaced bolts, to the top belay. |
Getting there
From the obvious roundabout at the entrance to Cala Gonone take the road towards the mountains to the sports grounds and park beside the go-kart track.
About 10 minutes. Take the path that passes left of the kart track and follow it to its end at the central part of the cliff, where a wide inclined slab about 15 m high sits in front of the wall. Look for a depression low on the left of the wall, just above that slab. Lilith is left of and below the main wall and starts in the middle of a group of single-pitch lines.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 138654
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 40.28206, 9.61435 (crag)
Getting down
Three abseils down the route. The top pitch is 35 m, so the top abseil needs two ropes.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal descent, so you can go down from any belay. The belays are two unlinked ring bolts, and the walk between pitches 3 and 4 means the top abseil ends on a ledge you then cross on foot.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
East facing (so morning sun, by aspect), low above the village, with a sea view. Reports are from April and October; the April party found it windy.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 14 | 14 | 17 | 20 | 25 | 30 | 34 | 34 | 28 | 24 | 18 | 15 |
| Mean daily low °C | 7 | 7 | 9 | 11 | 15 | 19 | 22 | 22 | 19 | 16 | 12 | 9 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 9 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 8 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 7 | 7 | 10 | 10 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 100 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
10 quickdraws, 2×50 m ropes for the abseils and a sling or cord to link the two bolts at each belay. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Lilith.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
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Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.