Paroi des Sources · Taghia · Morocco
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
A new, well-bolted line on the Paroi des Sources with two excellent pitches of 6c+ and 6c in its upper half. The rock is still fresh and sharp, and the first ascensionists' grades are friendly by Taghia standards. Short approach and shade make it a good first day.
The route
Rock la kasbar is one of the newest routes on the Paroi des Sources, the wall above the springs ten minutes from the gîtes. It has its own first two pitches, borrows the poor grade 5 link pitch of Classe Montagne Épinal, then climbs two fine pitches of 6c+ and 6c on new rock. The new equipment ends at the fifth belay. From there you either abseil or carry on by a 6c pitch shared with Anzar N Tafouyt and the last pitch of Le Rêve d'Aïcha to walk off. The obligatory grade is given as 6a+.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b+ | Starts just above the start of 'la via'. |
| P2 | 6b | A little slab climbing at the exit. |
| P3 | 5+ | Shared with Classe Montagne Épinal; of no interest and on fractured rock. |
| P4 | 6c+ | Superb. The hardest pitch. |
| P5 | 6c | Excellent. The new route ends at this belay. |
| P6 | 6c | Shared with Anzar N Tafouyt. |
| P7 | 6a+ | The last pitch of Le Rêve d'Aïcha. |
Getting there
From Marrakech go via Azilal to Zaouiat Ahansal: about 250 km and 5 to 6 hours, on tarmac throughout. From Zaouiat you walk up to Taghia or, since 2023, the gîtes can drive you up a track by 4x4. The gîtes in Taghia (Saïd's and Mohamed Amil's are the ones named in reports) offer half board and can arrange the taxi from Marrakech.
10 to 15 minutes from the gîtes: walk to the springs, cross them and take the small path to the foot of the Paroi des Sources. Camptocamp places the start just above the start of 'la via', without further detail; ask at the gîtes, where the topo is kept.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 43748 (Paroi des Sources)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.78437, -6.06462 (crag)
Getting down
Either abseil from the fifth belay: a June 2026 party reports that all the belays are linked for abseiling. Or continue to the top and walk off as for Le Rêve d'Aïcha: go left (facing the wall) along cairned ledges, which the same party describes as neither technical nor exposed.
Retreat
Easy to bail
A June 2026 party reports that all the belays are linked if you want to abseil, and abseiling from the fifth belay is one of the two normal ways down.
Safety
Sun and weather
The Paroi des Sources tops out at about 2,200 m. Camptocamp gives this route a south to south-west aspect, but a June 2026 party climbed the whole route in the shade from an 08:00 start, finishing at 13:00, when it was already hot in the sun. Dated ascents are from October, May and June.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 8 | 9 | 12 | 16 | 19 | 24 | 28 | 28 | 23 | 18 | 13 | 10 |
| Mean daily low °C | −4 | −3 | −0 | 3 | 6 | 10 | 14 | 14 | 10 | 6 | 1 | −2 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 5 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 11 | 9 | 7 | 10 | 9 | 8 | 6 | 5 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1927 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Quickdraws and normal multi-pitch kit; the sources give no number of quickdraws or rope length. Two ropes if you intend to abseil. Slings for the older belays if you continue to the top. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Rock la kasbar.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Morocco · Taghia
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France · Verdon
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The line used for Paklenica's annual Big Wall Speed Climbing competition: steep, direct and on very rough rock that has stayed unpolished. A sustained 45 m 6c+ pitch on small holds is the crux, followed by sharp runnels, a big corner and three overhangs to finish. Fifteen minutes from the car.
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.