Multipitch Atlas

Chamonix valley

France

The Chamonix valley has a large stock of bolted multipitch routes away from the glaciers: gneiss slabs and walls in the Aiguilles Rouges (Brévent, Chéserys), low crags above the valley floor (Rocher des Mottets) and the steep slabs of Barberine near the Swiss border at Vallorcine. Base yourself anywhere between Chamonix and Vallorcine; the valley has a railway (Mont-Blanc Express) and summer buses, and Geneva is the nearest airport. The valley crags are climbable from about April or May to October, while the Brévent depends on the cable car's summer season. The Chéserys and the Brévent lie in or beside the Aiguilles Rouges nature reserve.

Routes
4
Grade span
4bto7a
Longest route: Voie Câline
260 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Climate figures for Chamonix valley are not available yet

4 routes

Routes in Chamonix valley

Photo-topo of the Voie Frison-Roche on the Brévent (yellow line), with the neighbouring Retour à la Bretagne

France · Chamonix valley

Voie Frison-Roche

The great classic of the Aiguilles Rouges: six varied pitches of gneiss, ten minutes downhill from the Brévent cable car and finishing at its top station, with Mont Blanc opposite. The crux is a short, physical corner crack and the last pitch is a long, clean corner. It is extremely popular.

6a+6 pitches200 m

The painted sign marking the start of the Voie Câline on the Rocher des Mottets

France · Chamonix valley

Voie Câline

Nineteen very short pitches of easy slab above Les Bois, never harder than 4b and bolted like a climbing school. It is the standard first multipitch of the Chamonix valley, long enough to feel like a real outing and finishing at a mountain café with a view of the Mer de Glace.

4b19 pitches260 m

The Chéserys slabs above the forest, below the Aiguilles Rouges

France · Chamonix valley

Voie Jaune

A short, friendly slab route on the sunny gneiss of the Chéserys, facing the Mont Blanc range. Five pitches with one vertical step of 4c, chain belays and an abseil descent make it a standard introduction to multipitch climbing.

4c5 pitches150 m

The Barberine wall with the line of Méduse drawn in red

France · Chamonix valley

Méduse

A direct line up the big south-facing slabs of Barberine: three pitches of friction slab to warm up, then steeper, technical walls on small holds. The two top pitches are graded 6b+ and 6c+ if you step round the bolts and 7a if you climb straight up them; 6c is obligatory.

7a7 pitches230 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

French

corde
rope
dégaine
quickdraw
spit, goujon
bolt
plaquette
bolt hanger
relais
belay, anchor
Sec !
Take!
Du mou !
Slack!
Avale !
Take in!

France

Other regions nearby