Multipitch Atlas

Calanques

France

The Calanques are the white limestone sea cliffs and inlets between Marseille and Cassis, with an outlier of brown conglomerate at La Ciotat and Cap Canaille. The whole coast is a national park. Marseille is the base: buses reach the Luminy trailhead, and most cliffs are 40 to 75 minutes on foot from there. Climbing is best from autumn to spring; in summer it is hot and access to the massif is restricted on high fire-risk days. Many classics are old and only partly bolted, so check each route.

Routes
2
Grade span
4cto6c
Longest route: Armata Calanca
320 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Climate figures for Calanques are not available yet

2 routes

Routes in Calanques

The Grande Candelle and its plinth from the sea; Armata Calanca climbs the plinth and then the south face to the summit

France · Calanques

Armata Calanca

The big modern classic of the Calanques: eleven pitches in three tiers from the foot of the Candelle plinth to the summit, sustained in the sixth grade on grey water-pocketed limestone above the sea. Two walking ledges split the day and offer escapes. The eighth pitch, a 6b+ diagonal along a flake, is the one people remember.

6c11 pitches320 m

The Bec de l'Aigle above the Anse du Sec, La Ciotat; L'Atelier Bleu follows the runnel in the centre

France · Calanques

L'Atelier Bleu

An oddity: easy slabs and a long water-worn runnel up a dome of puddingstone above the sea, reached by abseiling into a cove from the Mugel park. The climbing is grade 3 and 4 on surprisingly solid pebbles. It was fully rebolted in 2024 and is a popular first multipitch.

4c6 pitches220 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

French

corde
rope
dégaine
quickdraw
spit, goujon
bolt
plaquette
bolt hanger
relais
belay, anchor
Sec !
Take!
Du mou !
Slack!
Avale !
Take in!

France

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