Capo d'Uomo · Monte Argentario · Italy
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
Three independent pitches on the wall below Capo d'Uomo, ending with a memorable 40 m wall of pockets, drips and flowstone at 6a. The route proper stops on the arête; the opener suggests carrying on up the last two pitches of the Spigolo Bonatti, an exposed 5c traverse and an easy ridge, to finish at the tower.
The route
Argento Argentario is a three-pitch bolted route (5c, 5a, 6a; 110 m) on the south-east wall of Capo d'Uomo. Its opener's description adds that from the top, on the arête, you can continue up the last two pitches of the Spigolo Bonatti, and that five-pitch outing to the tower is what is listed here. The first pitch is a pleasant slab with some grass and suspect holds, the second is little more than a transfer, and the third is the reason to come: forty sustained metres on generous, oddly shaped holds with one harder move. If you skip the finish you can unrope on the arête and take the small path just to the left.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | 35 m | – | A slab on good rock, a little grassy in places: watch what you pull on. The first bolt had no hanger in 2019. At that first bolt the line on the right is the Via del Diedro, whose first two pitches (5c, 5a) are a like-for-like alternative. Long quickdraws help. |
| P2 | 5a | 35 m | – | Easy-angled climbing that serves mainly to reach the upper wall. Pitches 1 and 2 have been linked with a 70 m rope and 18 quickdraws. |
| P3 | 6a | 40 m | – | The pitch of the route: a vertical wall close to a big dark corner on its left, sustained on generous holds, drips and flowstone. One move of 6a is not obligatory and the rest is about 5b to 5c. The bolt that protects the crux sits above a bulge and stays hidden until the last moment. There is no intermediate belay; two or three long quickdraws reduce drag near the top. Belay on the arête. |
| P4 | 5c | – | – | Join the Spigolo Bonatti: the end of its traverse pitch, which leaves the crest rightwards onto the open face in full exposure and regains the arête at a notch. The full Bonatti pitch is 37 m with 10 bolts; how much of it you climb from here is not stated. |
| P5 | 3a | 55 m | 5 bolts | Right of the arête, then along it to where it eases, and up easy steps to the final belay just below the tower. Figures are those of the Spigolo Bonatti's last pitch. |
Getting there
Drive to Porto Santo Stefano on Monte Argentario (southern Tuscany). At the port turn left at the first roundabout and climb the Vallone del Campone for about 3.5 to 4 km. At a junction turn left (the right branch is signed 'Poderi del Capo d'Uomo') and continue level for about 500 m to where the road crests with a view of the sea. Park on the left in an earth lay-by with signposts for Capo d'Uomo, or along the road; one December 2025 party wondered whether parking there is officially allowed.
About 30 minutes, mostly downhill. From the lay-by take the dirt road that drops to the right, on the other side of the tarmac, for about 200 m, then the level track on the right to a wide bend that climbs steeply. Just before the bend take the path on the left (cairn) and follow the whole ridge towards the ruined tower of Capo d'Uomo, about 15 minutes. Shortly before the tower drop left to the single-pitch crag and go down past its lowest routes. Continue down to a scree slope, following the cairns, at first to the left. Half-way down the scree, obvious cairns lead right to the scree fan below the wall, and a short climb up it reaches a cairn at the foot of the first slab. The start is an earthy ledge by an upright tree with a sling; nothing is named. Stefy and the Via del Diedro start from the same spot.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 1710698
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.39578, 11.10402 (crag)
Getting down
From the tower walk back along the ridge path you came in on, about 15 to 20 minutes to the car. If you stop at the top of pitch 3, unrope and take the small path immediately to the left to the same ridge.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
The start is reached on foot, so retreat means abseiling to the scree and walking back up. The belays are two bolts to link, without rings, and a maillon on the crux of pitch 3 shows that parties have backed off there. From the top of pitch 3 you simply walk off left, so the finish is optional.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing above the sea, between roughly 70 and 350 m, and in the sun for most of the day. Reports describe pleasant climbing in December and February; spring and autumn are ideal, and in summer you need a dawn start. Avoid very windy days.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Monte Argentario are not available yet
What to carry
15 quickdraws including two or three long ones (18 if you link the first two pitches), and cord to link the belay bolts. The sources do not name a rope: the last pitch is given as 55 m and you walk off, so a single 60 m rope is the minimum. Helmet recommended.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Argento Argentario (with the Spigolo Bonatti finish).
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Italy · Monte Argentario
A long arête that seems to drop straight into the sea: a sustained 6a first pitch, then corners, slabs and short walls at 5a to 5b+ separated by easy scrambling, with an exposed traverse out on the open face near the top. The 6a can be aided.
6a7 pitches240 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Monte Argentario
Four pitches on the sea-facing wall of Capo d'Uomo: a featured slab, an easy linking pitch, and two vertical, athletic pitches on sculpted grey limestone to the crest below the old watchtower. The final wall is the highlight. The lower pitches need care with holds.
5c4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Monte Argentario
The hardest of the short multipitch lines at Capo d'Uomo. Two approach pitches shared with the Via del Diedro lead to a sustained, technical 6a+ slab pitch that slants right on superb rock, then a varied 6a pitch up a smooth slab and a juggy bulge to the crest. The best climbing on this wall is at the top.
6a+4 pitches130 m
Around 6a · about 5 pitches
Switzerland · Grimsel
A short, varied granite route up a pale, smooth pillar across the valley from the Handegg slabs: a corner crack, then friction and edge slabs that get harder pitch by pitch. Grades are stiff, and the last pitch is sustained and tricky. A good half day or uncertain-weather route with a 15-minute approach.
6a5 pitches200 m
Spain · Escales (Ribagorça Pyrenees)
The neighbour of Xin Xan and a step up from it: adherence slabs low down, then an excellent, vertical third pitch on good holds that passes a small roof. It follows the edge of a corner without climbing in it. The last pitch has some doubtful rock.
6a5 pitches195 m
Croatia · Dabarski kukovi (Velebit)
Five pitches of steady 5c to 6a on compact, sculpted limestone in a quiet corner of the Velebit. The first pitch is sustained and delicate, pitch 3 has a short bouldery move over a small arch that you can pull through, and pitches 4 and 5 are the best of the route. Pitch 2 ends in a short vegetated gully and pitch 3 crosses a ledge.
6a5 pitches150 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
An arm-pumping 6a to start and a superb 6a to finish, with easier ground between. Skip the bolt-and-thread stance under the overhang on pitch 4 and belay 5 m higher.
6a5 pitches125 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
