Croatia · Paklenica
Karamara Sweet Temptations
A five-minute approach from the gorge café. There is a polished boulder-problem start, then wandering grooves and an airy traverse on the 6a+ third pitch.
6a+4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Besmrtnici
Anića kuk – north-west face (Trapez sector) · Paklenica · Croatia
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
A modern line by B. Čujić and I. Matković up the full height of the Trapez sector of Anića kuk: ten pitches, 360 m, steady between 5c and 6b+. It starts right of the classic Mosoraški, crosses it in the upper middle part and finishes to its left. Slabs low down, then a vertical crack, superb vertical slab pitches, a huge corner with a chockstone and an exposed traverse.
- Hardest pitch
- 6b+
- Pitches
- 10
- Length
- 360 m
- Approach
- 45 min
- Aspect
- NW
- North-west-facing
- Rope
- 2×50 m
The route
Overview
Besmrtnici is one of the few routes that climbs the whole north-west face of Anića kuk with sport-route protection. It keeps a constant standard: the grades given are for single moves or a few metres on each pitch, and nothing is harder than 6b+. bergsteigen.com describes the bolting as very good, with every belay bolted, and says friends are not needed. The upper half has the best pitches. You top out five minutes below the summit and walk down the normal path, so a single pair of 50 m ropes and 12 quickdraws is all you carry.
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
6a6a+6a5c6b6b+6b5c6a5c
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | 45 m | Straight up, then slightly left to the belay. |
| P2 | 6a+ | 40 m | Up and right over enjoyable slabs to a belay about 10 m right of Mosoraški. |
| P3 | 6a | 30 m | Slightly left at first, then over a small bulge (keep right) and straight up to the belay. The rock is somewhat brittle on this pitch. |
| P4 | 5c | 25 m | Up and right along a crack to a comfortable belay on a pedestal. |
| P5 | 6b | 35 m | A vertical crack, then slightly left over a superb slab passage and straight up to the belay. A 2026 ascensionist thought it nearer 6a+. |
| P6 | 6b+ | 35 m | A superb slab pitch, straight up. The hardest pitch. |
| P7 | 6b | 45 m | Vertical slabs, then a loop right and back left straight into the huge corner. Follow the corner and climb over a big chockstone to the belay. |
| P8 | 5c | 25 m | A very fine, steep corner, then an almost horizontal, very exposed traverse left to the belay. |
| P9 | 6a | 30 m | A prominent crack-corner up to the roof, a traverse right on big holds, then vertical slab to the belay. |
| P10 | 5c | 50 m | Follow a prominent crack straight up and finish over eroded rock to the top. A 2024 comment warns that this last 5c is serious and should not be underestimated. |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
Base yourself in Starigrad-Paklenica, on the coast road between Rijeka and Zadar. From Zagreb it is about 235 km by the A1 to the Maslenica exit, then 15 km along the coast. A signed road leaves the eastern end of the village for the national park. Buy a ticket at the entrance (climbers can buy 3-day and 5-day tickets), then drive on to the last car park at the end of the road.
On foot · about 45 min
From the last car park follow the main path up the gorge. After about 15 min, at a marked left-hand bend, a signed path branches right for Anića kuk. Follow it for about 100 m to a fork: right goes to the Stup, left to the Trapez, Klin, north-west and north faces. Go left. The start is close to that of Mosoraški, right beside the path in the zone of the last big rockfall, at about 400 m. About 45 min.
Map of the walk-in
- Crag
- Parking
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
44.30372, 15.47109
Last car park in the Velika Paklenica gorge (bergsteigen.com map marker 'Ende der Straße')
Point from camptocamp waypoint 43174 (Anića kuk)
For your phone or watch
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Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 44.30699, 15.48244 (crag) · Parking: 44.30372, 15.47109
Getting down
Descent
From the top it is a few minutes up to the summit of Anića kuk (712 m). Follow the red dots of the normal path north-east down over blocky ground into the wood, then the well-trodden path almost level northwards to a signed saddle and path junction. Take the path left (west) down under the north face until you are back at the foot of the wall, and return to the car park by the approach path. About 1 hour.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented: the route is described only as climbed to the summit with a walk-off. All belays are bolted and the pitches are 25 to 50 m, so abseiling on two 50 m ropes looks feasible from the lower belays, but nothing confirms abseil rings or a clean line.
- Retreat from
- Not known. The first seven pitches run fairly directly (inferred). Above, pitch 8 ends with a near-horizontal traverse and pitch 9 traverses under a roof.
- Point of no return
- Not documented. The traverses on pitches 8 and 9 would make abseiling from the top three belays awkward (inferred); from there the summit is the easier way out.
- Carry
- Two 50 m ropes with knotted ends (pitch 1 is 45 m) and maillons to leave.
- Basis
- Inferred from the route factsbergsteigen.com states bolted belays and pitch lengths only; no source mentions retreat.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Hazards
- Bolt spacing is not plaisir-style: expect some distance between bolts on the easier ground.
- Pitch 3 is somewhat brittle.
- The route crosses Mosoraški, one of the most popular classics on the face, and shares the wall with many other lines: watch for other parties and for stones from above.
- Pitch 10 is a full 50 m and was called serious for its grade in 2024.
- The start is in the zone of a past rockfall beside the path.
Sun and weather
Conditions
North-west facing, start at about 400 m, top at 712 m. camptocamp notes for the neighbouring Albatros that this side of Anića kuk only gets the sun in the evening, yet can still be hot in summer. bergsteigen.com marks May, June and September. Allow about 4 hours for the route and 5 h 45 in all.
Usual season · May to Jun, Sep
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall · NW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
- January: not yet worked out
- February: not yet worked out
- March: not yet worked out
- April: not yet worked out
- May (usual season): not yet worked out
- June (usual season): not yet worked out
- July: not yet worked out
- August: not yet worked out
- September (usual season): not yet worked out
- October: not yet worked out
- November: not yet worked out
- December: not yet worked out
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 7 | 8 | 12 | 16 | 21 | 25 | 28 | 28 | 23 | 18 | 13 | 8 |
| Mean daily low °C | 0 | 0 | 3 | 7 | 12 | 16 | 18 | 18 | 14 | 10 | 6 | 2 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 9 | 11 | 13 | 12 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 262 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Gear
12 quickdraws, 2 or 3 long slings and two 50 m ropes (bergsteigen.com). Its protection note says a medium set of nuts and cams is 'useful', but its summary and remarks say cams are superfluous and not strictly necessary. Helmet.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- 12
- Rope
- 2×50 m
- Helmet
- One each
- Maillons or spare karabiners
- To leave behind if you retreat
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Besmrtnici.
Worth knowing
Tips
- The pitch grades refer to short sections; most of the climbing is easier than the number suggests.
- bergsteigen.com singles out the upper pitches as the highlight of the route.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- Overall grade: UIAA 7/7+ with a 6b+ crux pitch on bergsteigen.com; 6c on thetopo.com; 6b+ on plezanje.net, where a 2026 ascensionist discusses whether the 6b+ pitch merits 6c and rates the first 6b nearer 6a+.
- Cams: the bergsteigen.com protection note calls a medium rack 'useful'; the same page's summary says the protection makes friends superfluous and its remarks say they are usable but not necessary.
- plezanje.net has no pitch breakdown for this route; pitch grades and lengths are from bergsteigen.com only.
Provenance
Sources
- bergsteigen.com – Besmrtnici, Anića kukUsed for: pitch grades, lengths and descriptions, protection, gear, approach, descent, season, first ascent
- plezanje.net – Paklenica: BesmrtniciUsed for: length, 2024 and 2026 comments on bolting and grades
- thetopo.com – Anića kuk: BesmrtniciUsed for: 'Sport' classification, guidebook grade, sector
- Camptocamp – Anića kukUsed for: crag coordinates
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.