Multipitch Atlas

Broken Soul

Röthelstein – SO-Sporn (south-east spur) · Grazer Bergland · Austria

Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high

A modern plaisir line on the south-east spur of the Röthelstein, finished in 2018 by linking three old, forgotten pitches with six newly cleaned ones. The fifth and sixth pitches are rated among the best on the Röthelstein. UIAA 6+ at the hardest, with only 5 obligatory.

The Röthelstein seen from a spur of the Rote Wand, looking west across the Bucheben saddle; the SO-Sporn routes finish at the climbers' summit and descend to this saddlePhoto: Schreckgespenst · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

The Röthelstein seen from a spur of the Rote Wand, looking west across the Bucheben saddle; the SO-Sporn routes finish at the climbers' summit and descend to this saddlePhoto: Schreckgespenst · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6a+
Pitches
10
Length
315 m
Approach
35 min
Aspect
SE
South-east-facing
Rope
1×50 m
walk-off

The route

Overview

Broken Soul is one of the newest independent lines on the crowded south-east spur (SO-Sporn) of the Röthelstein. Matthias Pilz combined the old, rarely climbed second, ninth and tenth pitches with six pitches that he dug out and bolted between 2016 and 2018. The result is a homogeneous route of about 315 m at UIAA 6+ (about 6a+), with only 5 (about 5a) obligatory, on stainless bolts throughout. bergsteigen.com says pitches 5 and 6 are among the best on the mountain. You top out near the climbers' summit and walk down.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeNotes
P1–Starts at the thread and the magenta bolt.
P2–One of the older pitches. Do not follow the thread out left, which leads to the Postlersteig.
P3–Not described.
P4–From here the hangers change from Fixe to AustriAlpin.
P5–A magenta bolt at the start shows the way. One of the two best pitches of the route.
P6–The other outstanding pitch.
P7–Not described.
P8–Not described.
P9–One of the older pitches taken into the route.
P10–One of the older pitches taken into the route, to the exit below the climbers' summit.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

From the S35 expressway between Graz and Bruck an der Mur leave at Frohnleiten and take the road towards Tyrnau. Beyond Tyrnau turn left and drive up to the Rote Wand car park at about 870 m. bergsteigen.com notes that a parking fee is charged.

On foot · about 35 min

25 to 35 min. From the far end of the Rote Wand car park take the gently descending forest track past the barrier and a track junction. Just before an old hut turn right onto a clear path and follow it on the level, finally through young forest, to the meadow in front of the Steindl hunting lodge. Go up the left edge of the meadow into the wood and left onto a wooded shoulder by a wooden fence. Climb the ridge, pass left through the old game fence and follow it to the big clearing below the SO-Sporn. Go up to the foot of the wall and, shortly after a step, take the upper path leftwards along the base. You reach the start of the Postlersteig at a cemented ring and a memorial plaque ('Petra'). Go 30 m further left and 20 m up to the start at a thread and a magenta-coloured bolt, at about 1000 m.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag
  • Parking

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

47.32444, 15.38860

Parking

47.32050, 15.40900

Rote Wand car park above Tyrnau (bergsteigen.com marker 'Parkplatz')

Point from bergsteigen.com map marker 'Einstieg (ungefähr)', marked approximate

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

From the exit go up to the climbers' summit, then right, following yellow dots, down to the Buchebensattel. Follow the forest track back to the car park. bergsteigen.com gives 35 to 40 min.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail not documented

Retreat is not documented. The source describes only the walk-off from the top and does not say how the belays are rigged. With stainless bolts at every belay and a single 50 m rope, abseiling pitch by pitch should be possible only where pitches are under 25 m, and the pitch lengths are not published.

Retreat from
Not documented.
Point of no return
Not documented.
Carry
A second rope and maillons if you want to be able to abseil.
Basis
Inferred from the route factsbergsteigen.com gives only the walk-off; the abseil advice is inferred from the recommended rope.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • The SO-Sporn carries many routes close together: several lines cross or run alongside, so follow the magenta bolts at the start and on pitch 5 and do not drift onto the Postlersteig on pitch 2.
  • Access to these crags depends on goodwill: bergsteigen.com asks climbers to behave considerately and to respect the parking restrictions.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-east facing, base about 1000 m. bergsteigen.com shows a season of March to June and September to November; the spur is hot in midsummer.

Usual season · Mar to Jun, Sep to Nov

Sun on the wall · SE-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C0261115192120161161
Mean daily low °C−8−7−3169111173−1−6
Rain days 1 mm or more881012151615151111109

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 947 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

12 quickdraws, 2 slings, helmet and a single 50 m rope.

Checklist

Quickdraws
12
Rope
1×50 m (walk-off)
Helmet
One each
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Broken Soul.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • bergsteigen.com gives 2.5 h for the climbing and 3 h 50 car to car.
  • The wall overview photo on bergsteigen.com shows all the SO-Sporn lines and is worth studying before you go.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Number of pitches: the text says three older pitches (2, 9 and 10) were combined with six new ones, which makes nine, but it names a tenth pitch and a photo caption shows 'pitch 10'. Ten is used here.
  • Approach time: the header gives 35 min, the approach text 25 to 35 min.
  • Descent time: the header gives 45 min, the descent text 35 to 40 min.

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.