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Den svarte stripa

Andersnatten, south-east wall · Andersnatten (Eggedal) · Norway

Read the cautionsBail with caveats

The obvious black streak up the south-east face of Andersnatten. Three pitches of pure, technical slab are followed by steeper wall climbing. It feels hard for the grade if you are new to slab and soft if you are confident on it. Expect more footwork than strength.

Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.

Andersnatten seen across the lake Andersnatttjenn, with the streaked slab wall above the forestPhoto: Helge Høifødt · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6b+6b+
Pitches
5
Length
200 m
Approach
–
Aspect
SE
South-east-facing
Rope
–

Highest point about 650 m above sea level (estimate: terrain height at the mapped point plus the height of the route).

Rock
gneiss
Season
May to Sep
Bolting confidence
Medium
Last verified
October 2026 · Aggregated by AI from published sources
Read before you go

Well bolted with new bolts, but loose blocks are reported on the upper pitches and pitch lengths are not documented.

Photo

Climbing modeBig type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.

Overview

Den svarte stripa ('the black stripe') follows the dark water streak up the middle of Andersnatten's south-east wall. It is one of the few fully bolted lines on a wall otherwise climbed mostly on trad or mixed protection, and among the most-logged routes there. The first pitches are smooth, technical slab on small holds, often wearing on the calves, and the upper pitches are steeper and more vertical. Most parties find pitch 3 the hardest. Fri Flyt lists Andersnatten's fully bolted routes as fairly hard, around Norwegian 7.

Worth knowing

  • A two-person team took about four hours for the climb.
  • Pitches 4 and 5 can be linked into one long pitch.
  • Norwegian grades converted to French with the Scandinavian-to-French table used by the Norwegian route database brattelinjer.no (5- = 5a, 5 = 5b, 5+ = 5c, 6- = 6a, 6 = 6a+, 6+ = 6b, 7- = 6b+, 7 = 6c, 7+ = 7a).

Pitch by pitch

The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Andersnatten.

Pitches of Den svarte stripa
PitchGradeLengthNotes
P16b35 mSlab. Norwegian 6+.
P26b+–Slab, Norwegian 7-. One party found it the most tiring for the calves.
P36b+–Slab, Norwegian 7-. Generally agreed to have the hardest moves.
P46a+–Steeper, more vertical climbing. Norwegian 6. Can be linked with pitch 5.
P56a–Steeper climbing to the top. Norwegian 6-. A loose block was reported in the middle of the pitch.

Approach

To the parking

Andersnatten is at Eggedal in Sigdal, about two hours' drive from Oslo. Pay the 50 kr toll on the gravel road (Vipps, or cash in an envelope at the barrier) and drive to the large parking area by a lake and some cabins. Mobile reception at the parking is poor.

On foot

From the parking, walk into the forest, heading to the right of the visible wall (UKC). The first belay is fairly high up, some way above the tree line, but the slope below it is not steep and you can walk up to it.

Map of the walk-in

Point from 27crags crag point for Andersnatten (crag 2762); matches Andersnatten at about 60.12 N, 9.42 E

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Contains the route point.

Points from published sources, not surveyed.

Descent

At the top, walk left until you find two piles of stones; the abseil station is below them, and two abseils take you down (27crags). The UKC crag notes describe the descent as two abseils from the ridge on the south side.

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

A 27crags climber says it is easy to retreat because the route is bolted the whole way, so you could abseil from the belays. The normal descent is not down the route, though, and abseil hardware at the intermediate belays is not described.

Retreat from
Any bolted belay (stated as easy by one climber); abseil hardware not confirmed.
Point of no return
None described.
Carry
Two ropes (lengths not stated), plus maillons or cord in case a belay has no abseil rings.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredRetreat being easy is stated in one 27crags comment; the rope and hardware advice is inferred.

Norway

In an emergency

In an emergency · Norway

112Emergency (police); passes mountain accidents to the rescue centre

Call 112

Emergency (police); passes mountain accidents to the rescue centre

Position of the crag

60.11479, 9.42511

Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.

Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (source).

Hazards

  • Loose blocks were reported in the middle of pitch 5 and at the end of the last pitch.
  • The UKC description calls the first three pitches 'sparse slab climbing'; on smooth slab, footwork is everything.

Gear

15 to 16 quickdraws. Two ropes long enough for the abseils (lengths are not stated). Helmet, because of loose blocks near the top.

Checklist

Quickdraws
16
Rope
Not given
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
For abseiling
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat
Cord
Mentioned for retreat

Conditions

Reader reports

No reports yet.

Report a problem with this route

Say what and where. Reports are checked before they appear; no name or email is stored.

Bolts and history

Bolting
A sport route bolted all the way, with bolted belays. A 27crags comment says the bolts are in excellent, nearly new condition, plentiful and closely spaced, and that it is easy to retreat because of that. Bring 15 to 16 quickdraws.
History
Not recorded in the sources found.
Guidebook
The Oslo guide covers Andersnatten (UKC crag notes); Fri Flyt names a 'Klatrefører for Andersnatten'. Buy from climbing-guide.eu.

Where sources disagree

  • Pitch count: the 27crags topo gives five pitches (6+, 7-, 7-, 6, 6-); UKC says 6 pitches, and one 27crags comment talks of 'the three last pitches' and a loose block 'at the end of pitch 6'. The five-pitch topo is used here; parties may split a long pitch.
  • Overall grade: 27crags shows 6c, UKC N7-. On the brattelinjer.no conversion, Norwegian 7- is 6b+, which is used for max_grade. One 27crags tick gives 6b+.
  • Bolt spacing: a 27crags comment says the bolts are close together; UKC calls the slab pitches 'sparse slab climbing', which may refer to holds rather than bolts.
  • Bolt state: the 27crags comments praising the new, closely spaced bolts and reporting the loose blocks are about ten years old (posted around 2016); 27crags ticks continue through 2025 without comments. In 2021 the landowners told the climbing clubs that bolting at Andersnatten had not been permitted and that removing existing bolts was being considered (Fri Flyt, 'Via ferrata fra grunneiers synsvinkel'); the 27crags access page now lists no special access issues.

Sources

Around 6b+ · about 5 pitches

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Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.