Séranon – Le Potager · Préalpes d'Azur · France
A modern line up a limestone pillar above Séranon, steep and varied: crack, corner, a physical bulge and a delicate slab. Five well-bolted pitches in the 6a to 6b+ range, with a short walk between the first and second.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point 1460 m above sea level (camptocamp route 937915).
6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches · 165 mEasy to bail
Aylan climbs a pillar of near-Verdon-quality limestone on the Le Potager crag above Séranon, a quiet corner of the Préalpes de Grasse. It is sustained for its grade, with cruxes in a crack-corner with one reachy move, a bulge, a physical overhanging section and a thin slab, each protected by a bolt at the right place. The rock is very good apart from a few loose blocks in the roof on pitch 3. Since the via ferrata was built, the climbing ends after the fifth pitch.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6aVI+5.10a | 40 m | 18 bolts | Up to a small corner, then right up a wall and a crack and over short steps; mostly 5c with a 6a move. Long and wandering, so extend some draws and skip a few bolts to manage drag. Two-bolt linked belay. Then walk about 30 m up to the base of the next pillar (name written again); the line with a thread on the left is Djé. |
| P2 | 6bVII5.10c | 35 m | 12 bolts | Cracked corner with one hard, slightly reachy move, then a thin slab rightwards and a tricky bulge, direct or by the right. You pass a chained abseil belay just before the stance. |
| P3 | 6bVII5.10c | 30 m | 11 bolts | Sustained at first: a crack on the left, a physical overhanging move, then easier cracks. Chained belay. Some blocks in the roof are loose. |
| P4 | 6b+VII+5.10d | 30 m | 13 bolts | Easy above the belay, then a delicate slab; exit left (harder) or slightly right (about 6a). Chained belay. |
| P5 | 5cVI5.9 | 30 m | 15 bolts | A smooth pillar (5b), then well-featured easier rock. Chained belay. |
Séranon is on the Route Napoléon (D6085) between Grasse and Castellane, about 1 h 15 from Nice. Park below the inn at the roundabout (large car park, toilets) or take the chemin de Curnier past the new cemetery and park there or in the hairpin before the hamlet of Curnier.
About 15 min. Walk to the hamlet of Curnier and follow the via ferrata signs. The route starts 25 m right of the via ferrata start and 5 m right of the route Djé, at the foot of a crack; the name is written at the base.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Point from camptocamp waypoint 469258
Contains the route point.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 43.77899, 6.69809 (crag)
Abseil from R5 to R4 and R3 on the chained belays, then follow the fixed ropes back down. Alternatives: continue 50 m up the via ferrata to a chained 45 m abseil into a gully and fixed ropes, or climb the via ferrata to the summit and take the path down (40 min). The fixed-rope descent is steep.
Easy to bail
The normal descent is to abseil the route from the chained belays, so you can retreat from any stance down the same line and finish on the fixed ropes.
France
112Emergency; sends PGHM or CRS mountain rescue
Emergency; sends PGHM or CRS mountain rescue
Position of the crag
43.77899, 6.69809
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
16 quickdraws, some of them extendable. Two 50 m ropes. Helmet.
South facing at about 1150 to 1400 m, so it is a spring and autumn route and hot in summer sun; a breeze often helps.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1460 m
Loading the forecast.
| Measure | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 1460 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 5 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 7 | 8 | 11 | 14 | 18 | 22 | 25 | 25 | 21 | 17 | 11 | 8 |
| Mean daily low °C | −2 | −3 | 1 | 4 | 8 | 12 | 14 | 14 | 11 | 7 | 2 | −1 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 8 | 8 | 9 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 8 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 720 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Around 6b+ · about 5 pitches
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
A weaving line up the shady right-hand side of the bay through dramatic ground: an exposed wall, a traverse under a bulge to tufas and bolted-on holds, a superb rising leftward traverse on immaculate rock to a hanging belay, and a traverse back right to an open groove. Originally an aid pitch in the middle, now free at 6b+.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches100 m
Read the cautions
Austria · Ötztal
A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches170 m
Norway · Andersnatten (Eggedal)
The obvious black streak up the south-east face of Andersnatten. Three pitches of pure, technical slab are followed by steeper wall climbing. It feels hard for the grade if you are new to slab and soft if you are confident on it. Expect more footwork than strength.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
Spain · El Chorro
The direct line just right of Amptrax, following what used to be that route's abseil descent. Two easy pitches lead to two good ones that each start with a bulge out of a cave: a 6a+ and then the 6b+ crux, short and powerful before a vertical grey wall on good holds. The rock is compact and the belays are comfortable.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches155 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.