Multipitch Atlas

Sexo Débil

Sa Gubia – Sector Princesa (right side, Sexo Débil) · Mallorca (Sa Gubia) · Spain

Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium

A weaving line up the shady right-hand side of the bay through dramatic ground: an exposed wall, a traverse under a bulge to tufas and bolted-on holds, a superb rising leftward traverse on immaculate rock to a hanging belay, and a traverse back right to an open groove. Originally an aid pitch in the middle, now free at 6b+.

The Puig de Son Nasi (left) and the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria, the Sa Gubia peak, seen from the Sóller railway to the east. The climbing walls are out of sight in the gorge on the far side.Photo: Joan Gené · CC0

Photo

The Puig de Son Nasi (left) and the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria, the Sa Gubia peak, seen from the Sóller railway to the east. The climbing walls are out of sight in the gorge on the far side.Photo: Joan Gené · CC0
Hardest pitch
6b+
Pitches
5
Length
100 m
Approach
45 min
Aspect
–
Not recorded
Rope
1×60 m
Read before you go

Bolted with ring anchors, but the crux depends on loosened bolt-on holds, the finish is unprotected easy ground and the upper pitches traverse.

The route

Overview

Sexo Débil zig-zags up the right-hand side of the Sa Gubia amphitheatre, the rightmost route of the Princesa sector, through overhangs and smooth slabs. The third pitch was once climbed on aid; artificial holds were later bolted on so that it goes free, which all three sources say takes nothing away from the route. The last two pitches, traversing left and then back right, are the highlight. Rockfax puts it in its top 50 and Foracorda gives it five stars. The traverses make it a route where the second needs to be as solid as the leader.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeNotes
P14aAbout 5 m of scrambling to the first bolt, then easy face climbing to an anchor on a flat ledge at the base of the corner.
P26a+Pull up and right onto the wall, exposed at first, then slabbier climbing on sharp holds to the ledge below an impressive bulging wall. Do not follow the bolts straight above the first anchor: that is a much harder route.
P36b+Traverse right under the bulge, then pull up on sparse tufas and bolted-on holds. Reachy, and harder than it was because some holds have loosened; a sling may be needed for aid.
P46bA rising traverse left on immaculate rock with just enough holds, very slabby until the last bolt, to a hanging belay.
P56bTraverse back right, the crux of the pitch, then go up the open groove to the top. The final section is easy but unprotected and has plants. Comfortable, bench-like belay with a view over the back of the mountain. Foracorda gives 6a+.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

From Palma drive north on the Ma-11 towards Sóller. Shortly after the junction where the Ma-2010 leaves for Bunyola there is a large car park by a restaurant, the usual parking for Sa Gubia. Mountain Project reports regular car break-ins: leave nothing in the car.

On foot · about 45 min

About 45 minutes from the car. Cross the road, walk back past the roundabout and take the small road that leaves the Ma-2010 past houses. The tarmac turns to dirt; just after a house with stables a dry stream bed crosses the track. Turn right up it and follow the cairns. Right-hand forks lead in turn to the Silicona, Excalibur, Isla Bonita, Princesa and Bomberos sectors, then Albahida. Go to the right-hand side of the bay. The start is below a pillar of rock under the right-hand side of the cave, reached by a long scramble at about 45 degrees; the first bolt is a further 5 m of scrambling above.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

39.69414, 2.67379

Point from Mountain Project sector point (Princesa, Sa Gubia), which it also gives for this route

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Abseil the route. With a single 60 m rope, return first to the anchor at the top of pitch 3, then to the top of pitch 1, then to the ground: three abseils. With longer twin ropes it may be possible to reach the pitch 1 anchor directly.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

All anchors have abseil rings and the route is abseiled as the normal descent, so retreat from the top of pitches 1, 2 and 3 is simple on a 60 m rope. The top of pitch 4 is a hanging belay at the end of a long leftward traverse; from there it is easier to finish.

Retreat from
The stances at the top of pitches 1 to 3.
Point of no return
The start of the pitch 4 traverse (inferred from the line).
Carry
A 60 m rope.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredRing anchors and the abseil sequence are stated on Mountain Project and Rockfax; the difficulty of retreating from pitch 4 is inferred from the traverses.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • The bolted-on holds on pitch 3 have worked loose over the years, according to Rockfax.
  • The top of pitch 5 is easy but unprotected.
  • Pitches 4 and 5 traverse a long way: a fall by the second means a swing, and retreating from the hanging belay at the top of pitch 4 is awkward.
  • Car break-ins at the parking are reported as regular.

Sun and weather

Conditions

Rockfax and Mountain Project both describe this as the shady side of the bay; no sun times are given. Sa Gubia is climbed from autumn to spring.

Usual season · Jan to May, Oct to Dec

Sun on the wall

No estimate: the wall's aspect is not recorded for this route.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C121214172125282924201513
Mean daily low °C77810141720211815118
Rain days 1 mm or more776653237998

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 400 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

Quickdraws (Mountain Project says more than ten bolts per pitch) and a sling to pull on at the pitch 3 crux. A 60 m rope. Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
Number not given in the sources
Rope
1×60 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Sexo Débil.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Both climbers should be comfortable at 6b on traverses.
  • Princesa and Sol Solet are on the back wall just to the left.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Length: 103 m (Rockfax), 100 m (Foracorda), 91 m (Mountain Project).
  • Pitch 5: 6b (Rockfax), 6a+ (Foracorda), 5.10d (Mountain Project).
  • Overall grade: 6b+ in Rockfax and Foracorda; Mountain Project's header converts its 5.11a to 6c.

Provenance

Sources

Same area

More in Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

All routes in Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
Sa Gubia seen from the Palma to Sóller road: the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria and the gorge that splits it, whose walls hold the multipitch sectors. The exact line is not identifiable at this distance.

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Via Llum de Lluna

Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.

6b5 pitches216 m

Read the cautions

Sa Gubia seen from the Palma to Sóller road: the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria and the gorge that splits it, whose walls hold the multipitch sectors. The exact line is not identifiable at this distance.

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

La Ley del Deseo

A steady 6a sport line, the first bolt line right of the open-book corner on the Bomberos wall. A harder P2 variation ('Sonrisa Vertical') is available.

6a6 pitches152 m

Sa Gubia seen from the Palma to Sóller road: the pointed Puig de s'Alqueria and the gorge that splits it, whose walls hold the multipitch sectors. The exact line is not identifiable at this distance.

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Sol Solet

Steep walls of beautifully sculpted grey and orange limestone immediately right of Princesa, even at 6b from bottom to top. Rockfax calls it more adventurous than its neighbour. Several belays are hanging, and the pitches can be split or linked in many ways.

6b+5 pitches200 m

A party on one of the bolted multipitch routes on the orange walls right of the Albahida ridge at Sa Gubia, photographed from Albahida in April 2019. The route they are on is not identified.

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Vía de los Bomberos

The best line of clean rock up the huge left wall of the Sa Gubia amphitheatre, and a Rockfax top-50 route. Four long pitches, sustained at 6a to 6b but never desperate, starting up a big white tufa, with fine positions at the stances. The route stops below the ridge and you abseil.

6b4 pitches135 m

Around 6b+ · about 5 pitches

Similar elsewhere

A view of the region, not this route's wall. The painted stone that marks the start of Strada del Sole at the foot of the Nösslachwand

Austria · Ötztal

Caipirinha

A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.

6b+5 pitches170 m

El Chorro: the reservoir and the limestone walls above it, seen from the hillside. A general view of the area; the route is not marked.

Spain · El Chorro

Ébola

The direct line just right of Amptrax, following what used to be that route's abseil descent. Two easy pitches lead to two good ones that each start with a bulge out of a cave: a 6a+ and then the 6b+ crux, short and powerful before a vertical grey wall on good holds. The rock is compact and the belays are comfortable.

6b+5 pitches155 m

The lower wall of the first Queyrellin tower: the route follows the slabby ramp slanting up to the left

France · Cerces

Nulle Part Ailleurs

A short, varied route on the first tower of the Queyrellin ridge above the Chardonnet hut: a slabby ramp, a traverse across a grey slab and an exposed pillar on exceptional rough limestone. Continuous 5c to 6a with one aidable 6b+ step on poorer yellow rock and a thin 6b move on the pillar. The last three pitches are airy.

6b+5 pitches170 m

The Biddiriscottai sea cliff north of Cala Gonone, seen from the scramble along its foot on the approach to Oceano Mare.

Italy · Sardinia

Oceano Mare

Five steep, sustained pitches at 6b to 6b+ straight out of the sea on new titanium bolts, on abrasive, pocketed limestone. Bulges, a smooth roof, a corner and a thin finishing crack, with a cave belay after pitch 1.

6b+5 pitches160 m

Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.