Ueschenen · Kandersteg (Ueschenen) · Switzerland
A gentle, very well bolted introduction to multipitch climbing on grey limestone slabs, four long pitches up water runnels and a final steepening wall. It is all about footwork, and the guidebook author Sandro von Känel picks it as one of the five best plaisir multipitches in the Bernese Oberland.
5bVI-5.84 pitches · 140 mEasy to bail
The Familienroute climbs about 140 m of grey limestone slab at Ueschenen, above Kandersteg, in four long pitches of 40 to 45 m. Most of it follows water runnels more or less straight up, and the last pitch finishes up a wall that steepens towards the top. The standard line is 5b, with optional direct variants of 5c on pitches 3 and 4. It was first climbed in 1968 and rebolted in 1993 with plenty of bolts, and every belay is a chain with a maillon, which makes it a natural first multipitch. The name is painted at the foot of the route.
No topo we can show; see the sources.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5aV+5.7 | 40 m | More or less straight up the water runnels. |
| P2 | 4cV5.6 | 40 m | Again roughly straight up in the runnels. |
| P3 | 5bVI-5.8 | 40 m | The difficulty is a short steep step after a ledge. Going straight up gives a 5c variant. |
| P4 | 5bVI-5.8 | 45 m | 5a, then 5b as the wall steepens to the finish. A variant on the wall to the left is 5c. A 2014 party describes the crux of this pitch as 5c. |
Kandersteg is on the BLS line from Spiez (Bern–Lötschberg), so you can come by train. By car, drive through Kandersteg to the junction south of the village and turn right onto the Ueschenestrasse, a toll road that zigzags up into the Ueschenental. At point 1595 near the Restaurant Lohner keep right to the end of the road; a 2026 party left the car at the restaurant for 5 CHF paid to the owner, and Mountain Project mentions several small parking spots in the valley. Without a car, take the Allmenalp cable car (about 10 min on foot from Kandersteg station) and follow the path south across the slope to the road end.
About 30 min from the end of the road. The path starts 50 m before the barrier, climbs to an alp hut, continues above it and then makes a long traverse left to the foot of the wall. Mountain Project gives 15 to 40 min depending on where you park. The route start is clearly marked with its name; a 2015 party in fog lost time by looking too far right.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 180631 (Ueschenen); Mountain Project gives 46.48315, 7.64089 for both routes, about 40 m away
Contains the route point.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 46.48333, 7.64133 (crag)
From the top, walk about 50 m north along the top of the cliff to a red stake, follow a short fixed line to the first anchor, then make three abseils of about 22 m down a line reserved for descent; a single 60 m rope is plenty. You can also abseil the route itself (all belays are chains with a maillon), but the pitches are 40 to 45 m, so that needs two ropes.
Easy to bail
Every belay is a chain with a maillon, so you can abseil from any stance. The pitches are 40 to 45 m, so going straight down the route needs two ropes; from the top, the separate descent line (3 × 22 m) works with a single 60 m rope.
Quickdraws only; the number per pitch is not published, so take enough for 45 m pitches. A single 60 m rope if you use the descent line. Helmet.
South-east facing, between about 1800 and 2200 m. Climbed from June to October; the guidebook author recommends autumn, when the sun keeps the rock warm. Parties report afternoon thunderstorms in June. The approach path gets very muddy after rain and with the cows on the alp.
Forecast · next 7 days · 2200 m
Loading the forecast.
| Measure | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 2200 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 4 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −6 | −4 | −1 | 2 | 6 | 11 | 14 | 14 | 10 | 6 | −0 | −5 |
| Mean daily low °C | −14 | −13 | −10 | −6 | −3 | 1 | 4 | 4 | 0 | −3 | −9 | −13 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 14 | 13 | 15 | 15 | 18 | 20 | 21 | 19 | 15 | 13 | 14 | 14 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 2145 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Switzerland · Kandersteg (Ueschenen)
Four long pitches of increasing difficulty on excellent grey limestone: pocketed slab, a smooth friction crux on pitch 3, and a short, steep final wall on flat holds that gives the 6a. Varied and sustained for the grade, with a few short grassy ledges in between.
6aVI+5.10a4 pitches140 m
Around 5b · about 4 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
An abseil-in sea-cliff route next to Powaqqatsi: three abseils to a platform just above the water, then four pitches back out. A steep first step, a fine sustained slab on pitch 2, then easy slabs to the top. Check the park access rules before you go.
5bVI-5.84 pitches130 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
France · Dentelles de Montmirail
A short, generously bolted beginner's multipitch on the north face of the Gigondas chain: an easy corner, a fine vertical wall, a rising traverse, and then a squeeze through a natural window in the crest to finish on the sunny south side. Polished from traffic but full of character, and done in an hour or so.
5bVI-5.84 pitches65 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Four long pitches of easy-angled friction slab on the far left of the Placche Zebrate, a touch harder than its neighbour Via del 46° Parallelo and just as popular. The rock is rough and pleasant almost everywhere, with one smoother section on the second and third pitches where the 5a to 5b moves are. A good first route on these slabs.
5bVI-5.84 pitches180 m
Switzerland · Orny (Champex, Mont Blanc massif)
Four pitches on a pillar of orange granite beside the path to the Cabane d'Orny, made to be climbed on the way up to the hut. The rock is cut into big blocks with positive edges. The last two pitches are steeper and more sustained than the grade suggests.
5bVI-5.84 pitches100 m
Compiled from published sources, last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.