Les Montons – Pointe Maurice Brandt · Sanetsch · Switzerland
Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
An adventurous line that weaves between the roofs of the Pointe Maurice Brandt, at the far left end of the Montons. It improves with height: the lower pitches have some friable rock, the last two are on exceptional grey, sculpted limestone. Lots of traversing and a memorable free-hanging final abseil.
Refurbished in 2023 and climbable on quickdraws, but with spaced bolts, some loose rock low down and a committing free-hanging abseil descent.
The route
Greatime is the last route at the western end of the Montons, well beyond the other sectors, on the roofed wall of the Pointe Maurice Brandt. The Remy brothers opened it in 1982 and it was last refurbished in 2023. Seven pitches lead through the roofs by slabs and traverses, with two pitches of 6a+ and an obligatory grade of 5c. Camptocamp rates the exposure E3, the atmosphere is serious for the grade and a 2024 party stresses that it is not a route for a first multipitch. The descent is by abseil.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | A vertical wall with a small overhang three metres up, then a slab rising rightwards. The start is often wet but goes anyway. A hold under the overhang was loosening in 2023. |
| P2 | 5c | A slab straight above the belay, with the first bolt a long way up, then a friable section, then a fine rising traverse right across a slab. The Remy topo gives 5b. The belay is awkward and sits below ground prone to stonefall. |
| P3 | 6a+ | Straight up a slab to a vertical, fractured passage with hollow-sounding holds, then a more physical short crack and a compact slab. The belayer is directly below, so take care with the exit holds. |
| P4 | 5a | A traverse right, then round the corner and up a slab with a large hollow flake. The belay is beside a red arrow that points to the abseil line. |
| P5 | 5c | Follow the first four bolts, shared with Génie du bal, up a vertical wall on good holds, then make sure you traverse right after the step. Straight on is Génie du bal (6c, then 6b). |
| P6 | 5c | A succession of walls on more compact limestone with runnels, to a comfortable ledge. |
| P7 | 6a+ | A technical start above the belay, then straight up exceptional grey rock. A 2026 party could not find the final belay and used the abseil station 4 m to the left. |
Getting there
From Sion drive up through Savièse to the Col du Sanetsch (2252 m) and on down towards the Lac de Sénin, about 26 km from Sion; the road is long and narrow and opens in June. A bus runs from Sion in season. From the Bernese side a cable car climbs from Gsteig to the lake. Wild camping near the lake is common, and there is an inn by the dam.
From the parking by the Lac de Sénin, about 30 m after the Chalet de la Lé, take a rising cairned track that zigzags through the boulders towards the Montons. Shortly before the wall bear left and follow its foot for a good ten minutes or more, past the Follomi sector. Greatime is the last route. The name, in red paint, was almost invisible in June 2023 and legible later that year. 40 minutes.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 43146 (Sanetsch – Les Montons)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.35343, 7.27946 (crag)
Getting down
By abseil, starting a few metres to one side of the exit and following red dots. Camptocamp describes five abseils: the third is diagonal, and the fifth leaves a hanging stance on the lip of a large roof for a 45 m free-hanging drop to the ground. Do not skip stations, especially on the diagonal abseil, where you could not climb back up if the rope jammed. An October 2024 party retreated from belay 4 in three abseils and found the hanging station sound, on two pegs and an added bolt.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
A party retreated from belay 4 in October 2024 in three abseils, joining the normal abseil line, which passes there. Any retreat ends with the 45 m free-hanging abseil from the suspended stance. Above belay 4 the route traverses and the descent is from the top.
Safety
Sun and weather
South to south-east facing limestone between about 2050 m and 2500 m, in the sun from early morning. The season runs from the opening of the pass road in June to October. Seeps under the roofs stay wet for days after heavy rain, and snow can lie in the boulder field in early June. The base of pitch 1 stays wet after storms. Stones fall regularly along the foot of the wall.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −8 | −6 | −3 | 0 | 4 | 9 | 11 | 11 | 8 | 4 | −3 | −8 |
| Mean daily low °C | −17 | −16 | −12 | −9 | −5 | −1 | 2 | 2 | −2 | −6 | −12 | −16 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 12 | 14 | 14 | 19 | 19 | 19 | 17 | 15 | 13 | 13 | 13 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2482 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
10 to 12 quickdraws, two 50 m ropes and a helmet. Nuts and cams are of no use.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Greatime.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Switzerland · Sanetsch
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Read the cautions
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.