Les Montons · Sanetsch · Switzerland
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
A varied, approachable route on the sculpted grey limestone of the Montons: a flake and corner first pitch that wakes you up, runnels and a carved wall in the middle, and a short athletic overhang near the top. Well bolted since 2015 and quick, with a walk-off.
The route
Hara qui pleure is a Remy brothers route from 1986 that was re-equipped and re-routed in 2015 to make it more amenable: the old 6c first pitch was replaced by a 6a+ starting further right, and the fourth pitch now takes an easier overhang on the right. The result is five pitches between 5b+ and 6a+ on excellent rock, popular as a first route at Sanetsch. Parties take two to two and a half hours. Gulliver.it, quoted by PeakVisor, describes a link-up with the neighbouring Pôle et Mique at the same overall grade of 6a+ (5c obligatory), 180 m.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a+ | 40 m | Start on the right, shared with Vain Cœur: a thin traverse, a harder move to get established in the flake, then the flake and corner, part layback and part bridging, to the top. Not easy when cold. |
| P2 | 5c | – | A small corner with an awkward move, then easier, attractive runnels up a sculpted wall. |
| P3 | 5b+ | – | A slightly easier wall, with a small bulge and a mantel finish before the belay, which is a little hidden. |
| P4 | 6a+ | 20 m | A short pitch that goes right through an athletic overhang at the start, more impressive than hard. Belay on a grassy ledge. |
| P5 | 6a | – | Turn a bulge on the right by a clean crack and exit onto the grassy summit slopes. A 2022 party found this pitch scrappy and hard to read. Pitches 4 and 5 can be linked. |
Getting there
From Sion drive up through Savièse to the Col du Sanetsch (2252 m) and on down towards the Lac de Sénin, about 26 km from Sion; the road is long and narrow and opens in June. A bus runs from Sion in season. From the Bernese side a cable car climbs from Gsteig to the lake. Wild camping near the lake is common, and there is an inn by the dam.
From the parking follow the path that winds up through the boulder field to the foot of the Montons. At the largest boulder head right and pass below Follomi, whose name is painted in red. Go past the niche, an obvious landmark, and the corner beyond, then climb along the wall, passing a single bolt that marks the start of La vita è bella, to some steep steps. Gear up here and follow the red dots up easy rock. The route name is written at the start. 30 minutes.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 43146 (Sanetsch – Les Montons)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.35343, 7.27946 (crag)
Getting down
Walk off. From the top take the path that descends to the right, then follow the red dots into the descent gully and ledges, which are awkward and dangerous when wet. The path then runs along the foot of the wall back to the start. Fast and efficient but exposed.
Retreat
Bail not documented
The normal way off is the walk-off from the top and no source describes abseiling the route. On the neighbouring Follomi the belays are not equipped for abseiling. With only five pitches, finishing is usually quicker than retreating.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South to south-east facing limestone between about 2050 m and 2500 m, in the sun from early morning. The season runs from the opening of the pass road in June to October. Seeps under the roofs stay wet for days after heavy rain, and snow can lie in the boulder field in early June.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −8 | −6 | −3 | 0 | 4 | 9 | 11 | 11 | 8 | 4 | −3 | −8 |
| Mean daily low °C | −17 | −16 | −12 | −9 | −5 | −1 | 2 | 2 | −2 | −6 | −12 | −16 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 12 | 14 | 14 | 19 | 19 | 19 | 17 | 15 | 13 | 13 | 13 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2482 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
14 quickdraws and a helmet. Cams are not needed since the 2015 re-equipping. A single rope is enough for the walk-off.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Hara qui pleure.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Switzerland · Sanetsch
The classic introduction to the Sanetsch at 6c: eight varied pitches up a pillar of superb rough limestone, with the hard climbing packed into a few well-bolted metres on each pitch. A steep corner mantel, a balancy wall, a fine slab and an airy exit from a niche. Tops out on grassy slopes with a walk-off.
6c8 pitches250 m
Switzerland · Sanetsch
Two tiers ten minutes from the road: a lower plinth of easier, less memorable pitches, then a splendid compact dome where the route climbs 6a, 6b and a 50 m 5c. Nine routes share the upper wall, so you can pick a different finish. Well bolted since 2016.
6b7 pitches250 m
Switzerland · Sanetsch
A Remy classic from 1985 on very compact, abrasive limestone: a fine straight-up 6a wall, a superb 5c+ pitch and a 6a pitch up a big water groove, followed by two easy pitches of runnels. Every pitch is different. Technical for the grade.
6a6 pitches160 m
Read the cautions
Switzerland · Sanetsch
An adventurous line that weaves between the roofs of the Pointe Maurice Brandt, at the far left end of the Montons. It improves with height: the lower pitches have some friable rock, the last two are on exceptional grey, sculpted limestone. Lots of traversing and a memorable free-hanging final abseil.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Read the cautions
Around 6a+ · about 5 pitches
Switzerland · Furka
Five sustained pitches on the left side of the Hannibalturm, never easier than 5c+ and never much harder than 6a+. A smooth friction slab leads to steep wall climbing, a pillar, a flake and a corner, and the route finishes up a ladder of huge quartz knobs. Many parties rate it the best line on the tower and find the second pitch the hardest.
6a+5 pitches170 m
Spain · Montserrat
A modern linkup over two pinnacles on excellent conglomerate. Overhanging 6a and 6a+ walls alternate with easy 'potato-field' slabs. The new bolting makes it one of the most reassuring long lines in the massif.
6a+5 pitches185 m
France · Verdon
A 1985 classic of the Escalès, a grade harder and noticeably bolder than Les Dalles Grises next door. Five pitches on pockets and slabs, starting with polished rising traverses and finishing up a sculpted wall of vertical flutings, an overhanging crack and a bulge at 6a+. You need to be solid at 6a to enjoy it.
6a+5 pitches150 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Germany · Ammergauer Alpen
The popular sport line of the Geiselstein south face, straight up to the summit cross. Long, steep pitches on excellent rough limestone, sustained at UIAA 6- to 6 with two short passages of 6+ and one easier pitch on less reliable rock. Never easy and never crowded with bolts: you climb between them.
6a+5 pitches210 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.