Treffauer – south-west face plinth (Multerkarwand) · Wilder Kaiser · Austria
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
A short plaisir route on the left side of the Multerkarwand that gets better the higher you go. A powerful start, an easy and rather grassy second pitch, then a perfect slab, a steep wall on jugs, a technical pitch round a small overhang and a harder final pitch added later. Best in spring and autumn; in dry years it goes into December.
The route
November Sun was climbed by Marcus Sappl and Hans Zott in November 2016 on the inclined slabs at the left end of the Multerkarwand, below the Treffauer. It mixes steep passages with slab climbing, and the difficulty is packed into the upper half: UIAA 6/6+, then 7-, then a last pitch of 7-/7 that was added after the first ascent. The bolting is close and you abseil the line afterwards. The west aspect makes it an afternoon route for the cooler months.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c+ | 20 m | UIAA 6. A powerful start straight off the ground. |
| P2 | 5a | 40 m | UIAA 5. Easy and somewhat grassy. |
| P3 | 5c+ | 30 m | UIAA 6. A perfect slab. |
| P4 | 6a+ | 20 m | UIAA 6+ (bergsteigen.com: 6/6+). A strenuous start, then a slabby finish. |
| P5 | 6b | 35 m | UIAA 7-. Somewhat technical. Climbers Paradise describes, for the upper part of the route, a steep wall on jugs, a slab where you step sideways beneath a small overhang and a traverse on an undercut flake. From the ledge at the top you can instead go right and climb one pitch to the belay of Kunterbunt. |
| P6 | 6b | – | UIAA 7-/7, the crux, added after the first ascent. Climbers Paradise does not list this pitch, so its length is not published openly. |
Getting there
Scheffau am Wilden Kaiser is on the B178 between Wörgl, Kufstein and St. Johann in Tirol. In the village turn off at Gasthof Maikircher towards the Jägerwirt and follow the road to the pay car park Wegscheid (883 m), just below the restaurant. By public transport, take the KaiserJet or the post bus to the stop Scheffau Dorf and walk about 30 minutes to the car park. Climbers Paradise also describes an e-bike approach from the free car park by the Scheffau council offices to the end of the forest road below the Wegscheid-Hochalm (4.4 km, 560 m of ascent), which leaves about 30 minutes on foot.
From the Wegscheid car park follow path 826 towards the Treffauer, past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and up to the Wegscheid-Hochalm. Below the slabby wall you reach the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig. Follow that path to the right for a very short way and, where it enters the scree, turn straight up left to the foot of the wall. Allow 1 h 15 to 1 h 30. Then traverse left below the overhanging zone until you reach the inclined slabs in the left part of the Multerkarwand. The start is just right of a survey mark on the rock, recognisable by gold-coloured bolts; the route Stiegl Hell starts left of the mark.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Pay car park Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau
Point from bergsteigen.com map marker 'Einstieg'
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.55510, 12.27810 (route base) · Parking: 47.53610, 12.26540
Getting down
Abseil the route and walk back down the approach path to the Jägerwirt car park.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal descent, so you can turn round at any belay. With two ropes you reach the ground from the top in a few abseils.
Safety
Sun and weather
West facing; Climbers Paradise gives the start at about 1440 m. The wall is in shade until the afternoon. bergsteigen.com recommends spring and autumn above all, and says that after dry, snow-poor spells you can still climb here in December.
Sun on the wall · W-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −4 | −3 | 1 | 5 | 10 | 14 | 15 | 15 | 11 | 7 | 1 | −4 |
| Mean daily low °C | −14 | −13 | −9 | −6 | −1 | 3 | 5 | 5 | 1 | −3 | −9 | −13 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 13 | 17 | 16 | 21 | 21 | 21 | 18 | 16 | 14 | 13 | 14 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1717 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
2×60 m double ropes and 12 quickdraws, two slings, helmet (bergsteigen.com). Climbers Paradise gives 50 m double ropes. No nuts or cams.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to November Sun.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
Nine pitches of easy slabs and water runnels beside the Treffauer normal route, UIAA 5 at most if you take the easy variant on pitch 4. Lots of bolts and friendly ground make it one of the most popular routes in the Schneekar. The rock is not solid everywhere and the walk-in is two hours.
5a9 pitches280 m
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
A short alpine sport route in the Schneekar that steepens as it goes: a scrambling start, fine water runnels on rough rock, then a smooth slab into an overhang on pitch 4. The crux is UIAA 7 to 7+ and can be aided on the bolts.
6c5 pitches180 m
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
With König der Löwen, the most climbed route on the walls above Scheffau. Nine pitches of slabs, steep walls and small pillars at UIAA 5 to 6, with one short squeeze through a cleft and a walking pitch across a big ledge. It faces south-west and suits spring and autumn days.
6a9 pitches295 m
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
Also listed as Sappl-Zott. The heart of the route is a deep chimney that takes you about 50 m inside the mountain, well bolted and enjoyable where chimneys usually are not. Slab and wall pitches before and after, a traverse and a big flake on the ridge make a varied eight-pitch outing, finished by an airy abseil.
5c+8 pitches295 m
Around 6b · about 6 pitches
France · Gorges de la Jonte
One of the longest routes in the gorge and the line that names its sub-sector: six varied pitches with a steep grey wall of holds at 6a and a slabbier 6b where the holds thin out at the top. Grades are stiff and you climb between the bolts.
6b6 pitches130 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Aosta Valley
The easiest line on the Pilastro Lomasti and still a serious step up from the neighbouring Paretone: six pitches of steep, technical slab on pockets and small edges, never below 6a. The fourth pitch follows a fine diagonal crack. The rock is exceptional and the grades are firm.
6b6 pitches190 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Technical and sustained, with five varied climbing pitches of 6a+ to 6b: a pocketed slab, a surprising chimney hidden behind a pillar, a thin vertical pillar and a long steepening wall to a bulge. Quiet compared with the single pitches below, and in shade until about 12:30.
6b6 pitches160 m
Spain · El Chorro
A good continuation above Nitti. Highlights are a short, thin 6b slab on P4 and a pumpy steep start to the final 6a+ pitch.
6b6 pitches138 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
