Acquafredda sea cliffs · Maratea · Italy
A short sea-cliff route above the water near Acquafredda: four abseils down, then four pitches back up. A juggy pillar leads to a red wall with two harder sections (6a+), a technical grey corner and an airy arête, and a short traverse on very sharp rock to finish.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point about 200 m above sea level (estimate: terrain height at the mapped point plus the height of the route).
New stainless bolting, but the route is documented only by the opener, and the abseil approach means you must climb out.
6a+VII-5.10b4 pitches · 82 mCommitting
Oceano di silenzio was the first route on the stretch of sea cliff between Acquafredda and Sapri. You abseil four times from the coastal path to a stance near the water, then climb four pitches back up: a juggy pillar, a red wall with two harder sections (the 6a+ crux), a technical corner and an airy arête on grey rock, and a short, sharp traverse to the abseil point. The opener describes it as fully bolted with stainless PLX bolts on good to excellent rock, graded S2 for protection. It is short (82 m), but the position above the sea is spectacular. Because you abseil in, you must be able to climb the 6a+ pitch to get out.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Malopasso - Arrampicate e vie ferrate in Campania e dintorni.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5aV+5.7 | 18 m | A small pillar with big holds. |
| P2 | 6a+VII-5.10b | 22 m | A red wall with two harder sections. The crux. |
| P3 | 5c+VI/VI+5.9+ | 30 m | A technical corner and an airy arête on grey rock. |
| P4 | 5aV+5.7 | 12 m | From the third belay traverse left, then climb a short pitch on very sharp rock to the abseil point. |
From Maratea drive to the hamlet of Acquafredda, then north towards Sapri on the SS18 Tirrena Inferiore. Go through a tunnel and pass below a big band of cliffs; about where it ends, at the exit of a tunnel under construction, park on the left by the tourist sign 'Benvenuti nella Costa di Maratea' (40.04208, 15.64672). Road works on the SS18 may change the layout, which is why the opener gives the coordinates.
About 5 min. From the car park climb over the low wall and go down a short bank towards the sea. Cairns lead to the well-marked path 'Apprezzami l'asino'. Follow it towards Acquafredda for a few tens of metres to a small rocky pulpit on the right with the route name. The abseil sling is on the sea side and is not immediately visible. Make four abseils on a doubled 70 m rope to the foot of the route.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Parking
Point from opener's car park pin (goo.gl link on planetmountain and riccardoclimbing.com); the abseil point is about 5 min away along the coastal path
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 40.04208, 15.64672 (crag) · Parking: 40.04208, 15.64672
No descent: the route finishes at the abseil point beside the path, a few minutes from the car park.
Committing
You reach the route by four abseils from the top, so once the ropes are pulled the way out is to climb the four pitches. The belays are bolted, but abseiling further only takes you towards the sea. If in doubt, leave a rope fixed on the abseils (inferred), or do not go down.
Italy
112Emergency, where the single number is in service
Emergency, where the single number is in service
Where 112 is not yet the single number, call 118 and ask for CNSAS.
Position of the crag
40.04208, 15.64672
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
A single 70 m rope (used doubled for the abseils), 12 quickdraws and a few slings to reduce rope drag. Helmet.
South-west facing, just above the sea. The opener says that with a very early start it can be climbed even in summer, or in the late afternoon; in the middle of the day the face is hot (he worked on the neighbouring route in over 30°C in June). Logged ascents are from April and May.
Forecast · next 7 days · 200 m
Loading the forecast.
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| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 200 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 4 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 12 | 12 | 15 | 18 | 22 | 27 | 29 | 30 | 25 | 22 | 17 | 13 |
| Mean daily low °C | 4 | 4 | 6 | 9 | 13 | 17 | 19 | 20 | 17 | 13 | 9 | 6 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 11 | 8 | 7 | 7 | 10 | 10 | 12 | 12 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 123 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
No reports yet.
Around 6a+ · about 4 pitches
Croatia · Paklenica
A five-minute approach from the gorge café. There is a polished boulder-problem start, then wandering grooves and an airy traverse on the 6a+ third pitch.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Switzerland · Vaud Alps
The first route opened on the wall right of the Dar waterfall: an easy pitch, two long pitches of steep technical slab and a fine vertical corner with a few athletic moves. Sustained for its grade on superb grey limestone, in the shade for most of the day.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b4 pitches130 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Monte Argentario
The hardest of the short multipitch lines at Capo d'Uomo. Two approach pitches shared with the Via del Diedro lead to a sustained, technical 6a+ slab pitch that slants right on superb rock, then a varied 6a pitch up a smooth slab and a juggy bulge to the crest. The best climbing on this wall is at the top.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b4 pitches130 m
Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)
Four pitches up the dome of La Pancha, right above the houses of Redován. A slabby warm-up, a 6a+ pitch through a steep band on big holds, a fine technical wall, and a long last pitch of delicate face climbing that most people rate the best. Excellent rock and an urban outlook.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b4 pitches130 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.