Multipitch Atlas

Todos los Santos

Sierra de Callosa, Redován (La Pancha) · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa) · Spain

Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high

Four pitches up the dome of La Pancha, right above the houses of Redován. A slabby warm-up, a 6a+ pitch through a steep band on big holds, a fine technical wall, and a long last pitch of delicate face climbing that most people rate the best. Excellent rock and an urban outlook.

The Sierra de Callosa rising behind the houses of Redován; the La Pancha climbing sector is on this side of the range, a short walk above the villagePhoto: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

The Sierra de Callosa rising behind the houses of Redován; the La Pancha climbing sector is on this side of the range, a short walk above the villagePhoto: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6a+
Pitches
4
Length
130 m
Approach
15 min
Aspect
S
South-facing
Rope
2×50 m, or 1×70 m

The route

Overview

La Pancha is the big limestone dome above Redován, covered in single-pitch sport routes with a handful of multipitch lines to the top. Todos los Santos is the most often described of them: four pitches at 6a+ maximum (6a obligatory), on rock that every report calls excellent. The crux is the second pitch, steep but on good holds; the third is a thin vertical wall and the fourth a long, elegant pitch at 5+. Names and grades are written at the foot of the routes here. The cliff faces south and is a winter venue.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P14+15 mFrom the plaque follow the first line of bolts up a slab with good edges to a comfortable belay in a small cave. The hangers were described as black and faded in 2012 and as painted blue in 2015. Camptocamp grades this pitch 5 and gives 30 m, continuing obliquely right past a first belay.
P26a+35 mThe crux. Start right of the first bolt, cross a slightly loose section, pass a rib and a small roof that is airy but has good holds, then traverse right to the belay on a cramped ledge. The line of bolts continues straight up, so the move right to the belay is deliberate. Camptocamp gives 20 m and describes it as zigzagging.
P36a30 mA fine, sustained wall with a 6a to 6a+ move, easing into a slightly overhanging, grassy corner. Belay on a large ledge. Camptocamp gives 20 m.
P45+40 mThe whole pitch is visible from the belay: an easy slab, then a steep technical section on edges with few footholds, crux at mid-height, easing to a ledge on the left. A parallel line on the left is about the same grade and ends a little lower. Camptocamp gives 35 m.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Redován is a village in the Vega Baja, between Orihuela and Callosa de Segura. Drive to the sports centre (polideportivo) in the upper part of the village and use its car park.

On foot · about 15 min

15 to 20 minutes. From the top of the sports centre car park take the well-worn path marked with white and yellow paint, which climbs with wooden steps towards the cliff; a wooden sign part-way up points to the climbing area. The route name is on a plaque at the foot.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

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The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

38.12040, -0.90393

Point from camptocamp waypoint 470941 (Redován)

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Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

By abseil. A 2022 party made a single 50 m abseil from a station signposted from the top of the face and reached by a handline. A 2017 report from the neighbouring route describes the same descent in two steps: facing the village, go left following cairns and arrows chiselled in the rock, make a short abseil to a ledge, and continue left to a second abseil shared by the routes of the sector. You can also abseil the route itself: a 2012 party with a 70 m rope made four abseils (37, 30, 20 and 25 m) and took about an hour, using a sport-route anchor for the third.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

Every belay has a chain and a ring, and the route has been abseiled, so you can retreat from any stance. It is not a clean line: the belays are offset and one abseil ends at a sport-route anchor, so expect to clip bolts as directionals and to take your time.

Retreat from
Any of the four belays.
Point of no return
None.
Carry
A 70 m rope or two 50 m ropes; on a 70 m the first abseil from the top stops about 2 m short of belay 3.
Basis
Stated in the sourcesThe 2012 blog describes abseiling the route belay by belay with a 70 m rope.

Safety

Hazards

  • Abseiling the route is awkward: the first abseil stops about 2 m short of belay 3 on a 70 m rope, with a short down-climb on a cord, and belay 2 is about 8 m off to the right, so the 2012 party clipped bolts on the way down to reach it.
  • A short loose section at the start of pitch 2.
  • Linking pitches causes heavy rope drag because the line zigzags.
  • The walk back from the descent line to the path was described as haphazard in 2022.
  • Seasonal ban next door: a sign at the crag prohibits climbing in the Botri and Los Cortaos sectors from 1 January to 30 June for nesting Bonelli's eagles (Decree 179/2004). La Pancha is outside the area drawn on the sign, but check the notice before you climb.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-facing at low altitude (camptocamp gives about 100 m at the foot of the routes). A cool-season route: parties in October and November found it too hot. In late May the sun reaches the wall at about noon, so start early. The last belay is in full sun.

Usual season · Jan to Apr, Nov to Dec

Sun on the wall · S-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C161820232631333329252017
Mean daily low °C56811141821211814106
Rain days 1 mm or more445542125554

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 27 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

14 to 15 quickdraws including one or two extendable ones for the zigzags. Two 50 m ropes or a single 70 m for the abseils. No cams or nuts needed.

Checklist

Quickdraws
15
Rope
2×50 m, or 1×70 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Todos los Santos.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Allow 1.5 to 2.5 hours for the climb.
  • Trust the grades painted at the foot of the routes over the Rockfax topo, which a 2015 party found incomplete and sometimes wrong for this cliff.
  • You can make the start harder by climbing a single-pitch route on the lower wall to the first belay; one party used a 6c for this.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Pitch lengths: camptocamp gives 30, 20, 20 and 35 m (105 m, with a height of 130 m); the 2012 blog gives 15, 35, 30 and 40 m (120 m) and calls the route 150 m. The blog figures, which come with belay-by-belay detail, are used in the pitch list.
  • Pitch 1: 5 on camptocamp, IV+ on the blog.
  • Hanger colour on pitch 1: black and faded (2012) against blue (camptocamp and a 2015 party), which suggests the hangers were renewed or repainted in between.
  • Descent: four abseils down the route with a 70 m rope (2012), abseils down the route (2015), or one 50 m abseil from a separate station (2022).

Provenance

Sources

Same area

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.