Multipitch Atlas

Plattenzauber

Röthelstein – SO-Sporn (south-east spur) · Grazer Bergland · Austria

Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high

Technical slab climbing up the central slab shield of the Röthelstein's south-east spur, getting better the higher you go. The hardest moves are UIAA 8- and about 6+/7- is obligatory, so this is the hard option on the spur, but the bolts are stainless and close together.

The Röthelstein seen from a spur of the Rote Wand, looking west across the Bucheben saddle; Plattenzauber is on the slabs of the south-east spur and the descent returns over this saddlePhoto: Schreckgespenst · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

The Röthelstein seen from a spur of the Rote Wand, looking west across the Bucheben saddle; Plattenzauber is on the slabs of the south-east spur and the descent returns over this saddlePhoto: Schreckgespenst · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
7a
Pitches
8
Length
230 m
Approach
50 min
Aspect
SE
South-east-facing
Rope
1×50 m
walk-off

The route

Overview

Plattenzauber ('slab magic') takes the central slab shield of the SO-Sporn, just left of the classic Jägersteig. Opened in 2014, it gives about 230 m of excellent slab climbing that improves with height, protected in plaisir style with closely spaced stainless bolts and ring belays. The grade is UIAA 8-, which this atlas converts to about 7a, and UIAA 6+/7- (about 6a+) is obligatory. No source says whether the crux goes at A0. You walk off the top.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeNotes
P1–Starts at the wire thread on the grass ledge.
P2–Not described.
P3–Not described.
P4–Shown in a photo but not described.
P5–Not described.
P6–Shown in a photo but not described.
P7–Not described.
P8–The most photographed pitch on the source page; the slab climbing is said to get better and better towards the top.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

From the S35 expressway between Graz and Bruck an der Mur leave at Frohnleiten and take the road towards Tyrnau. Beyond Tyrnau turn left and drive up to the Rote Wand car park at about 870 m. bergsteigen.com notes that a parking fee is charged.

On foot · about 50 min

About 50 min. From the far end of the Rote Wand car park take the small path past the barrier, descending at first, past a clearing with a small hut to a wide forest road below a hunting lodge. Follow it uphill for a few minutes to the edge of the wood and go left into the forest onto a knoll with a three-way junction at a gate, signposted for Mixnitz. Go up right to the game fence, climb through it and follow it leftwards. After crossing a trickle of water take the path on the right to the foot of the wall. Follow the path along the base of the SO-Sporn past the start of the Postlerweg, then in zigzags towards a cave. Pass below the cave on the left, cross scrambly ground on faint tracks and go up to a grass ledge with a crooked yew. The start is at a wire thread, left of the Jägersteig, at about 1000 m.

Map of the walk-in

  • Route base
  • Parking

Loading map

The point marks the base of the route.

Coordinates · route base

47.32460, 15.38770

Parking

47.32050, 15.40900

Rote Wand car park above Tyrnau (bergsteigen.com marker 'Parkplatz')

Point from bergsteigen.com map marker (start of route)

For your phone or watch

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Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

From the exit keep left in the forest, climbing briefly, and follow tracks along the edge to a game fence at a meadow. Cross the fence on the far side of the meadow and follow it down on its west side to a wooded saddle, where a path branches right to the Drachenhöhle. Continue along the fence to a meadow where the Kellersteig starts on the left and descend it to the foot of the wall. Alternatively descend north from the back of the summit to the game fence and return over the Buchebensattel to the Rote Wand car park. About 50 min.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail not documented

Retreat is not documented. The source describes only the walk-off. The belays have rings, which suggests they can be abseiled from, but with the single 50 m rope recommended you could only abseil pitches shorter than 25 m and the pitch lengths are not published.

Retreat from
Not documented; ring belays are stated.
Point of no return
Not documented.
Carry
A second rope if you want to be able to abseil.
Basis
Inferred from the route factsbergsteigen.com states ring belays and a walk-off; the abseil option is inferred.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • The obligatory grade is high for the area: UIAA 6+/7-, about 6a+ on slabs.
  • The approach finishes across scrambly ground below a cave.
  • Many routes share the spur: the line starts left of the Jägersteig, so check the wall overview before setting off.
  • Access to these crags depends on goodwill: bergsteigen.com asks climbers to behave considerately and to respect the parking restrictions.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-east facing, base about 1000 m. bergsteigen.com shows a season from March to November; July and August are left out here because slab climbing at this grade is poor in midsummer heat.

Usual season · Mar to Jun, Sep to Nov

Sun on the wall · SE-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C0261115192120161161
Mean daily low °C−8−7−3169111173−1−6
Rain days 1 mm or more881012151615151111109

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 947 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

12 quickdraws, a few slings, helmet and a single 50 m rope.

Checklist

Quickdraws
12
Rope
1×50 m (walk-off)
Helmet
One each

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Plattenzauber.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • If you plan to come down the Kellersteig, leave rucksacks at the depot point marked 'Rucksackplatz' on the bergsteigen.com map.
  • bergsteigen.com gives 3 h for the climbing and 4 h 40 car to car.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Number of pitches: not stated in the text. Eight is taken from the photo captions, which run to 'pitch 8' and include 'at the belay before pitch 8'; a higher pitch cannot be ruled out.
  • Grade conversion: UIAA 8- is given as 6c+/7a in this atlas's table; the upper value is used.
  • Season: the month bar includes July and August, which are omitted here as a judgement about heat on slabs.

Provenance

Sources

Same area

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.