Burgsteiner Wand, Längenfeld · Ötztal · Austria
Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A demanding line through the huge roof zone of the Burgsteiner Wand above Längenfeld. Eight pitches with two at 7a, very steep, and a serious abseil descent. Only the first two pitches are a little loose.
Bolted and in good condition by both sources, but 7a with a high obligatory grade, loose opening pitches and a steep, committing abseil descent.
The route
The hardest route in this batch and at the top of the atlas range: eight pitches on steep gneiss with 7a on pitches 3 and 8 and an obligatory grade of about 6c (UIAA 7). It finds a way through the big roofs of the Burgsteiner Wand, five minutes from the main road. The two easy opening pitches are somewhat loose; above that the rock is good. Climbers Paradise stresses that you must be completely secure abseiling in extremely steep terrain. The start is about 15 m left of Schwalbennest.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 3c | 30 m | Easy and somewhat loose. |
| P2 | 5a | 30 m | Still a little loose. |
| P3 | 7a | 20 m | The first hard pitch. |
| P4 | 6a | 30 m | No pitch description in the free sources; the grade and length are from the Climbers Paradise table. |
| P5 | 6a+ | 15 m | No pitch description in the free sources; the grade and length are from the Climbers Paradise table. |
| P6 | 6b | 40 m | No pitch description in the free sources; the grade and length are from the Climbers Paradise table. |
| P7 | 6a | 30 m | One of the flatter upper pitches, mossy and very unpleasant when wet. |
| P8 | 7a | 30 m | The second 7a pitch. A harder left-hand exit, the 'Schwaiger-Projekt' (UIAA 7+), is an alternative finish mentioned by bergsteigen.com. |
Getting there
Leave the A12 at the Ötztal exit and drive about 23 km up the valley to Längenfeld. From the roundabout at the far end of the village continue about 1 km towards Sölden and, below the Burgsteiner Wand (the big cliff left of the road), turn right towards the hamlet of Astlehn, signed for the Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata car park. Park in the car park before the first houses, not along the narrow road. By public transport, take the train to Ötztal-Bahnhof and the bus to Längenfeld.
Cross the main road and, right by the bus stop, cross the stream on a bridge. Follow the foot of the wall left to the via ferrata. Pass the start of the via ferrata and climb over a gate into a meadow. Immediately after the gate go up right on a path through bushes to the wall, and use the fixed rope to reach the start, about 15 m left of Schwalbennest. About 15 minutes.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Via ferrata car park at the Astlehn turn-off
Point from bergsteigen.com map marker (route start, approximate)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.05997, 10.96589 (route base) · Parking: 47.05800, 10.96292
Getting down
Abseil from the end of the route with 60 m double ropes, following the topo. From the second-last belay abseil to a fixed rope and clip into it, then continue under a big roof and on down to the start. Allow about an hour.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Abseiling the route is the normal descent, so the belays are rigged. The terrain is very steep with big roofs, a fixed rope has to be clipped on the way down, and Climbers Paradise insists on complete mastery of abseiling in extremely steep ground. Retreat from part-way up should follow the same line but is not described.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
West to north-west facing between about 1200 and 1380 m; Climbers Paradise gives May to October. Wait for two dry days: when wet, the flatter upper pitches are extremely unpleasant because of moss.
Sun on the wall · W-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −0 | 2 | 5 | 8 | 13 | 17 | 19 | 19 | 16 | 12 | 5 | 1 |
| Mean daily low °C | −10 | −8 | −4 | −1 | 3 | 7 | 9 | 9 | 6 | 1 | −5 | −9 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 12 | 12 | 15 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 21 | 15 | 13 | 13 | 13 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1267 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
12 quickdraws (Climbers Paradise says about 15), two 60 m ropes, helmet. bergsteigen.com notes you can climb on a single rope but the abseils work better with doubles.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Schwarze Mauer.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.