Treffauer – north face plinth (Schneekar) · Wilder Kaiser · Austria
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
The third route on the shady plinth next to König der Löwen and Via Max. Rough water runnels and steep, rough wall passages, a pleasure when dry, with the 7- crux in a runnel on the third pitch. A route for hot summer days with views of the Kopfkraxen south face and the Hintersteiner See.
The route
Schneekar-Schmankerl starts from the same first belay area as Via Max, on the north-facing plinth of the Treffauer above the Schneekar. After an easy scramble it follows water runnels and steep walls for about 270 m, with one passage of UIAA 7- on the third pitch and several of 6 to 6+. The bolting is good and the wall is in shade until the afternoon, which is the point of the route in summer. The friction on the runnels depends on dry rock. You walk off down the Treffauer normal path.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 2 | A scrambling pitch (UIAA 1 to 2) with two threads and, higher, two bolts, to the left-hand belay with two bolts. Via Max uses the right-hand belay. |
| P2 | – | Water runnels; not described in detail in open sources. |
| P3 | 6b | The crux pitch: a 7- move in the final water runnel. |
| P4 | – | A steep pitch. |
| P5 | – | Starts steeply on good pockets. |
| P6 | – | A rib on the ridge, the second-to-last pitch, to a belay with a view of the Kopfkraxen south face. |
| P7 | – | The last pitch, on brittle rock that needs care, to the exit by a block on the meadow. |
Getting there
Scheffau am Wilden Kaiser is on the B178 between Wörgl, Kufstein and St. Johann in Tirol. In the village turn off at Gasthof Maikircher towards the Jägerwirt and follow the road to the pay car park Wegscheid (883 m), just below the restaurant. By public transport, take the KaiserJet or the post bus to the stop Scheffau Dorf and walk about 30 minutes to the car park. Climbers Paradise also describes an e-bike approach from the free car park by the Scheffau council offices to the end of the forest road below the Wegscheid-Hochalm (4.4 km, 560 m of ascent), which leaves about 30 minutes on foot.
From the car park below Gasthof Jägerwirt walk up towards the Treffauer, pass a small waterfall on its right and climb through the dwarf pines to the start of the Schneekar. König der Löwen starts where the Treffauer normal path leaves the cirque to the right. For this route continue a little further up along the rock to a level spot with small boulders, the sack depot. From there cross the scree to the wall. Allow 2 hours.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Pay car park Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau
Point from bergsteigen.com map marker (route base)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.55794, 12.28054 (route base) · Parking: 47.53660, 12.26610
Getting down
From the end of the route, by a block on the meadow, go down a short way, then traverse horizontally to the Treffauer normal path, which is already in view, and follow it down. bergsteigen.com allows 1 h 15 for the descent.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
The normal descent is on foot from the top. bergsteigen.com lists 60 m double ropes 'possibly for abseiling', and the neighbouring Via Max is abseiled, so a retreat down the bolted belays should work from the lower pitches. It is not described pitch by pitch.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
North facing: the route only gets sun in the afternoon. After rain wait for a dry day, because the water runnels lose their friction when damp. Climbers Paradise gives June to October for this plinth. Climbers Paradise puts the start of the neighbouring Via Max at about 1700 m.
Sun on the wall · N-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −4 | −3 | 1 | 5 | 10 | 14 | 15 | 15 | 11 | 7 | 1 | −4 |
| Mean daily low °C | −14 | −13 | −9 | −6 | −1 | 3 | 5 | 5 | 1 | −3 | −9 | −13 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 13 | 17 | 16 | 21 | 21 | 21 | 18 | 16 | 14 | 13 | 14 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1717 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
60 m double ropes (bergsteigen.com adds 'possibly for abseiling'), 13 quickdraws and a helmet. No nuts or cams.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Schneekar-Schmankerl.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
Nine pitches of easy slabs and water runnels beside the Treffauer normal route, UIAA 5 at most if you take the easy variant on pitch 4. Lots of bolts and friendly ground make it one of the most popular routes in the Schneekar. The rock is not solid everywhere and the walk-in is two hours.
5a9 pitches280 m
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
A short alpine sport route in the Schneekar that steepens as it goes: a scrambling start, fine water runnels on rough rock, then a smooth slab into an overhang on pitch 4. The crux is UIAA 7 to 7+ and can be aided on the bolts.
6c5 pitches180 m
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
With König der Löwen, the most climbed route on the walls above Scheffau. Nine pitches of slabs, steep walls and small pillars at UIAA 5 to 6, with one short squeeze through a cleft and a walking pitch across a big ledge. It faces south-west and suits spring and autumn days.
6a9 pitches295 m
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
Also listed as Sappl-Zott. The heart of the route is a deep chimney that takes you about 50 m inside the mountain, well bolted and enjoyable where chimneys usually are not. Slab and wall pitches before and after, a traverse and a big flake on the ridge make a varied eight-pitch outing, finished by an airy abseil.
5c+8 pitches295 m
Around 6b · about 7 pitches
France · Calanques
A big, remote wall climb from the sea to the plateau on the east end of the Devenson cliffs, above the Calanque de l'Eissadon. After two easier pitches it is continuous at 6a+ to 6b up white walls and a striking vein of aragonite, technical on the feet and vertical. Four abseils and a two-hour walk each way make it a full day at the end of the world.
6b7 pitches215 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Morocco · Taghia
The friendly way into Taghia, starting at the water's edge beside the springs. Seven varied pitches, well bolted by Taghia standards. Go left around the unstable rock below the second belay; fragile blocks are marked in red. In shade until midday.
6b7 pitches270 m
Committing
Austria · Salzkammergut
The best known multipitch route of the Salzkammergut: seven pitches straight out of the Wolfgangsee. You abseil in from the top of the Falkenstein cliff, or arrive by boat, and start from a hanging belay at the waterline. Mostly grade 5 slabs with exposed traverses, then a steep section and a holdless corner equipped with artificial holds.
6b7 pitches185 m
Committing
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
