Pedra Longa (Baunei) · Sardinia · Italy
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
The easy way up the Pedra Longa sea stack: four short pitches starting almost at the water, with one steep and airy 5c+ pitch between friendlier 5b and 4c ground. Shorter and much easier than its neighbour Marinaio di Foresta, in the same setting.
The route
Signorina Fantasia was added in 2017 by Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu as the accessible multipitch on Pedra Longa, the limestone stack that rises from the sea below Baunei. In the openers' words it is less beautiful and shorter than Marinaio di Foresta, but much easier. Three pitches of excellent rock lead to easy steps and the ledge of the normal route, from where a scramble reaches the summit. The second pitch is the crux, with a traverse that feels exposed; the rest is 5b or easier.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5b | 25 m | A steep wall, then slant left into a white corner to a chained belay on a step hanging above the sea. Slightly polished and greasy in humid easterly weather; some logbook entries give 5a. |
| P2 | 5c+ | 25 m | The crux. A vertical wall on the right with an awkward start and a short traverse right, then step left into a steep, sustained wall with an intimidating traverse. Chained belay, more comfortable than the first. |
| P3 | 5b | 20 m | Up a corner towards a tree, pass left of it, then the wall above and easy steps to a comfortable belay. |
| P4 | 4c | 20 m | The wall right of the belay on more fragile rock, then easy steps to a belay of bolts and cord on a tree, on the ledge of the normal route. |
Getting there
From Baunei take the SS125 towards Santa Maria Navarrese and turn off at the sign for Pedra Longa; follow the road down to the car park by the bar-restaurant (40°01'38.9"N 9°42'21.3"E).
5 minutes. Go down the steps beside the restaurant towards the sea and reach the foot of the stack on its north side. Leave the main path rightwards and follow the rocks along the base of the cliff, an easy traverse just above the water. The name is written at the start, just before Marinaio di Foresta and before the corner of the wall facing the open sea.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 630621
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 40.02740, 9.70708 (crag)
Getting down
From the last belay you can scramble to the summit and back by the ridge above (one climbing move, then a track). To go down, follow the ledge to the right (south, landward side) across almost the whole face, marked by cairns, to the small col; this involves two short sections of easy downclimbing, or an abseil from a station at the end of the ledge. Parties report walking down with no abseil, or making two short abseils of 30 m at most.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Vertical Pirate states that you can retreat down the route in bad weather, and belays 1 to 3 are chained. Pitches are 20 to 25 m, so a single 50 m rope reaches each belay below. From the top belay it is quicker to walk off.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
North-east facing, a little more north than Marinaio di Foresta: in shade from late morning in autumn. Parties climb it from spring to the end of December. An easterly wind makes the lower rock damp and slippery, and pitch 2 is hard when wet. Popular, though usually quieter than Marinaio.
Sun on the wall · NE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Sardinia are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws and a single 50 m rope. Helmet. A sling for the tree belay.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Signorina Fantasia.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Italy · Sardinia
An airy, mostly left-rising traverse that spirals round the Pedra Longa sea stack to its summit, on water-runnelled grey walls and pocketed white rock right above the sea. It has become one of the most popular routes in Sardinia, so expect queues.
6a+7 pitches190 m
Committing
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This is the easiest way to the top of Sardinia's iconic 140 m pinnacle above Cala Goloritzè. Short technical bulges and walls lead to a fine slab finish, and the harder overhangs can be aided. Gulliver splits it into 4 pitches; camptocamp gives 5. Check seasonal access rules for Cala Goloritzè before going.
6b5 pitches150 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Sardinia
A short but superb sea-cliff route on beautifully sculpted limestone in an incredible setting near Pan di Zucchero. Corners and an airy pillar lead to a steep, rounded 6a wall. Camptocamp rates it 'great'.
6a4 pitches120 m
Italy · Sardinia
The easiest line on the Capo Caccia sea cliff: six pitches of 4b to 4c on pocketed, sharply sculpted limestone above the open sea. You abseil in from the top and climb out. The first two pitches are vegetated; the climbing proper starts on the pitch 3 slab.
4c6 pitches145 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Around 5c+ · about 4 pitches
Greece · Cape Maleas (Peloponnese)
An even, well-bolted line with sea views: a short corner and slab, steep walls and a superb final pitch with a juggy steep crux. The last belay is hanging and uncomfortable.
5c+4 pitches135 m
Spain · Montserrat
An exposed, airy line with unusually good holes and jugs for Montserrat, shaded in the afternoon. The 6a pitch is a sustained vertical 20 m. Going straight up instead of following the line is closer to 6b+.
6a4 pitches140 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The best-known route on the Mallo Colorado. Two steep, juggy panza pitches have a well-protected boulder move, giving a short taste of real Riglos steepness at a friendly grade.
5c4 pitches150 m
Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)
A popular modern four-pitch classic on Pared Negra's compact grey limestone, around UIAA 6/6+ (about French 6a). Best on cool, sunny winter days.
6a4 pitches150 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.