Plagne – Grand Toit · Bernese Jura (Plagne) · Switzerland
The longest route at Plagne, about 180 m of climbing that traverses the whole yellow wall of the Grand Toit sector on its best rock. Big atmosphere on every pitch, with traverses where a fall would leave you hanging. 6c, 6a+ obligatory.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point 900 m above sea level (camptocamp route 1054852).
6cVIII-5.11b7 pitches · 180 mBail with caveats
Super G is a seven-pitch line across and up the yellow wall of the Grand Toit sector at Plagne, about 180 m of climbing, the longest route on the cliff. It was opened by Boris Girardin in 2017 and 2018, partly from the ground up, and climbed free in September 2018. The grade is 6c with 6a+ obligatory. Several pitches traverse, including a 50 m traverse over pitches 4 and 5, so the second needs to be competent and a fall can leave a climber hanging away from the rock.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo at Camptocamp – Super G topo photo (B. Girardin), or in Kletterführer Jura bernois / Berner Jura.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6bVII5.10c | 20 m | Climbed ground-up on the first ascent. A 2020 party found it a stiff warm-up; a few holds in the first two pitches were still fragile in 2020. |
| P2 | 6cVIII-5.11b | 25 m | Traverse along under the roof, horizontal or even slightly descending; climbed ground-up. |
| P3 | 6bVII5.10c | 25 m | Straight up to the third belay; equipped from above. |
| P4 | 6bVII5.10c | – | Start of the long rising traverse left (pitches 4 and 5 together cover about 50 m), climbed ground-up. |
| P5 | 6a+VII-5.10b | – | End of the traverse; a 2020 party found an (empty) raptor's nest midway. From the belay, a 5 m abseil leads to belay 4 of Nevermore as an escape. |
| P6 | 5aV+5.7 | – | Short and easy; equipped from above. |
| P7 | 6b+VII+5.10d | – | Exit pitch, starting with a big bouldery move; equipped from above. |
Plagne is 10 km from Biel/Bienne. Drive towards Delémont, turn right at Frinvillier for Plagne and park at the football pitch at the top of the village.
Walk about 25 minutes on the flat to the top of the cliff, then go down the ladders (Les Échelles) to the Grand Toit sector. You can also warm up by climbing a route of the Aiguille sector to reach the start (CAS 'Jura bernois' topo). The route name is painted at the start.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Point from camptocamp waypoint 1772113 (Plagne – Grand toit)
Contains the route point.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 47.17553, 7.25272 (crag)
From the top, walk back along the cliff-top path. If you need to retreat: abseil the route to belay 3 (2×25 m); from belay 4 you can descend via Nevermore or Via Dolomiti (1×20 m then 2×25 m); from belay 5, a 5 m abseil reaches belay 4 of Nevermore, then climb Nevermore's 3a pitch 5 and go up the gully on the left (new since May 2025).
Bail with caveats
The topo describes retreat: abseil the route to belay 3 (2×25 m), use Nevermore or Via Dolomiti from belay 4, or from belay 5 abseil 5 m to Nevermore and escape up its easy 3a pitch 5. The traverses make a straight abseil impossible higher up.
Switzerland
1414Rega air rescue
Rega air rescue
In Valais call 144.
Position of the crag
47.17553, 7.25272
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
Single 50 m rope and 14 quickdraws, two of them long (60 cm) to extend some clips. Take one or two prusiks in case of a fall on the traverses.
West and south-west facing at about 900 m: afternoon sun. Parties have climbed it from March to November; a November 2025 party climbed in a T-shirt above the fog.
Forecast · next 7 days · 900 m
Loading the forecast.
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|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 900 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 7 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · W-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 3 | 5 | 9 | 13 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 18 | 13 | 7 | 4 |
| Mean daily low °C | −3 | −3 | 0 | 3 | 8 | 11 | 13 | 13 | 10 | 6 | 1 | −2 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 12 | 14 | 15 | 18 | 18 | 17 | 16 | 14 | 14 | 14 | 15 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 782 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
No reports yet.
Switzerland · Bernese Jura (Plagne)
A four-pitch classic on Plagne's main face: a slabby corner, a dirty start to pitch 2, then a fine thin crack and a bulging prow. Rebolted in stainless in November 2025 and now 6a obligatory. Expect old-school Jura grades.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d4 pitches
Around 6c · about 7 pitches
Morocco · Taghia
The classic first route at Taghia: steep, water-sculpted red limestone on the west face of the Taoujdad, with a 6c third pitch that is 6b until a short crux below the belay. It is better bolted than most Taghia routes and correspondingly popular, so some pitches are polished.
6cVIII-5.11b6cVIII-5.11b7 pitches300 m
Spain · El Chorro
Seven pitches up a steep south face at Frontales, sustained, physical and technical on very rough, unpolished limestone. The fifth pitch (6b+) is a thin slab and the sixth (6c) has a strenuous start and a crux on grey rock. It is one of the few 6c multipitch lines here with a clean abseil descent.
6cVIII-5.11b6cVIII-5.11b7 pitches195 m
Germany · Berchtesgaden & Bad Reichenhall
A steep, athletic line up the pillar right of the Schönheitskönigin von Schneizlreuth, reached by one pitch of that route and one of Alpinmodel. Four independent pitches of UIAA 6 to 7+ on very good rock, then the last pitches of the Schönheitskönigin.
6cVIII-5.11b6cVIII-5.11b7 pitches170 m
Read the cautions
Switzerland · Sanetsch
The classic introduction to the Sanetsch at 6c: eight varied pitches up a pillar of superb rough limestone, with the hard climbing packed into a few well-bolted metres on each pitch. A steep corner mantel, a balancy wall, a fine slab and an airy exit from a niche. Tops out on grassy slopes with a walk-off.
6cVIII-5.11b6cVIII-5.11b8 pitches250 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.