Dalle de St-Imier · Bernese Jura (La Heutte & St-Imier) · Switzerland
A modern line up the big slab above St-Imier: two long easy pitches of slab, then a 6b crux and a 5c+ finish on the fine rock of the upper slab. Bolted ground-up in 2013, with chain belays and an abseil option.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point 1100 m above sea level (camptocamp route 926841).
6bVII5.10c4 pitches · 140 mEasy to bail
KGB climbs the Dalle de St-Imier, a broad slab above the town of St-Imier in the Vallon de St-Imier, in four pitches. The first two are long, easier slab pitches (4c and 5a, 40 to 45 m); the third is the 6b crux and the fourth a 5c+ finish. It was opened from the ground up in 2013 by Boris and Killian Girardin and is equipped with M10 Fixe bolts and chain belays, and a 2018 party called it excellently equipped, with fine compact rock on pitch 3.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Kletterführer Schweiz plaisir Jura.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4cV5.6 | 40 m | Slab. |
| P2 | 5aV+5.7 | 45 m | Slab. |
| P3 | 6bVII5.10c | 30 m | The crux: a surprising vertical passage on compact, chiselled rock, a little dusty in the crack. The 6b move can be pulled on two very close bolts (2018 party). |
| P4 | 5c+VI/VI+5.9+ | 25 m | A succession of final moves to the last chained belay; then climb 5 m more to leave the slab. |
St-Imier is in the Vallon de St-Imier between Biel/Bienne and La Chaux-de-Fonds, with a railway station. Park in the forest above the town (the camptocamp crag page gives 47.16176 N, 7.00807 E).
From the parking, follow the forest track north-west for about 15 minutes; the slab is just before a tunnel. The route name is at the foot; follow the yellow Fixe bolts.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Parking
Point from camptocamp waypoint 122630 (Dalle de St-Imier)
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 47.16140, 7.00273 (crag) · Parking: 47.16176, 7.00807
Walk off: from the top go left above the protection nets on a built path that follows the cliff and drops into the forest; it can be slippery and has old iron bars in the ground. You can also abseil with 2×50 m ropes (a 2018 party made four abseils), but the crag page says it is no quicker and is dangerous with other parties below.
Easy to bail
The topo says you can abseil with 2×50 m ropes and a 2018 party did so in four abseils from the chained belays; the crag page warns it is no quicker and dangerous with parties below.
Switzerland
1414Rega air rescue
Rega air rescue
In Valais call 144.
Position of the crag
47.16140, 7.00273
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
Quickdraws (number not published) and 2×50 m ropes if you want to abseil.
South to south-east facing at about 930 to 1100 m. The crag page lists March to October.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1100 m
Loading the forecast.
| Measure | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 1100 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 4 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 4 | 5 | 9 | 13 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 18 | 14 | 8 | 4 |
| Mean daily low °C | −2 | −2 | 1 | 4 | 8 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 10 | 6 | 2 | −1 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 12 | 14 | 15 | 18 | 18 | 17 | 16 | 14 | 14 | 14 | 15 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 780 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Switzerland · Bernese Jura (La Heutte & St-Imier)
An ideal first multipitch: five short pitches of cracks, corners and slab on good, little-polished limestone, with very close bolting and an easy walk down. A single move on the last pitch is 5c/6a but goes easily at A0.
5cVI5.95cVI5.95 pitches125 m
Around 6b · about 4 pitches
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
The showpiece of the Montagna Spaccata: four steep, exposed pitches up a knife-edge spur that drops straight into the sea, reached by abseil. Sustained around 6a+ on good holds, with an overhang at 6b to finish.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches120 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
The best line of clean rock up the huge left wall of the Sa Gubia amphitheatre, and a Rockfax top-50 route. Four long pitches, sustained at 6a to 6b but never desperate, starting up a big white tufa, with fine positions at the stances. The route stops below the ridge and you abseil.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches135 m
Spain · Sant Llorenç de Montgai & Mont-roig
The classic of the Cilindre, a short Riglos in miniature: four steep, continuous pitches on big pebbles and pockets in sound conglomerate, with a polished crack-corner to start. The 6b second pitch is a long, slightly overhanging pull. Grades are considered generous for the style.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches100 m
Greece · Manikia (Evia)
Four long pitches up the right-hand pillar of the Sentinelle buttress on excellent rock: a pillar, a pocketed wall, an overhanging crack with a stiff exit, and a final pillar. Easy to find, well bolted and finished off with a playful via ferrata descent.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches150 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.