La Heutte – Le Paradis (Bonnes Fontaines) · Bernese Jura (La Heutte & St-Imier) · Switzerland
An ideal first multipitch: five short pitches of cracks, corners and slab on good, little-polished limestone, with very close bolting and an easy walk down. A single move on the last pitch is 5c/6a but goes easily at A0.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point 740 m above sea level (camptocamp route 511264).
5cVI5.95 pitches · 125 mBail with caveats
Nostalgique is the classic initiation multipitch of La Heutte, near Biel/Bienne: five short pitches up a corner system and pillar on the Bonnes Fontaines sector. The bolting is very close and the rock good, with less polish than many Jura classics. Most of it is 5b to 5c with one harder move on the last pitch that can be pulled through on a bolt. The camptocamp topo calls it perfect for learning: short pitches, moderate climbing, easy access and descent.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Kletterführer Schweiz plaisir Jura.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5bVI-5.8 | 15 m | Short corner and crack, then cross the terrace to the belay. Topo 5b/c; a 2026 party gave 5c. |
| P2 | 5cVI5.9 | 25 m | Up the more or less marked corner, then belay on the right on a terrace; ignore a chained abseil anchor on the left. |
| P3 | 5aV+5.7 | 25 m | Straight up the cracked slab. Belay on two unlinked points beside the tree. Topo 5a/b; a 2026 party gave 5b. |
| P4 | 5bVI-5.8 | 20 m | Up a crack; pass the first belay (L'Amicale's) and use the route's own belay one step higher. |
| P5 | 5bVI-5.8 | 40 m | Continue up the pillar staying left. One move of 5c/6a that goes easily at A0. Belay in the broken ground at the exit; there is also a tree higher up, but watch your rope length. |
From Biel/Bienne take the road towards Sonceboz and the Jura. Go through La Heutte; about 1 km after the village there are two large parking areas on the right; use the second. La Heutte has a railway station about 15 minutes' walk away.
About 15 minutes. From the parking take the path up to a forest track and follow it right, past a hairpin, then turn right (barrier) into the quarry. Cross it and follow a path to the foot of the Bonnes Fontaines single-pitch sector, staying close to the rock (chains), to a very marked corner at the foot of which there used to be a small metal platform (it collapsed in 2020). The name is worn away, but it is the only route there on rings and sealed bolts; L'Amicale shares the start and goes right.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Point from camptocamp waypoint 103777 (Le Paradis – Bonnes Fontaines)
Contains the route point.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 47.19361, 7.21053 (crag)
Go up a little following red dots to a marked hiking path (white and red) that descends a steep couloir just behind; chains on the slippery sections.
Bail with caveats
Every belay is bolted and the pitches are 15 to 40 m, so you could abseil the route, though it is not described as the normal descent. There is also a chained abseil anchor beside the pitch 2 belay.
Switzerland
1414Rega air rescue
Rega air rescue
In Valais call 144.
Position of the crag
47.19361, 7.21053
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
10 to 12 quickdraws and a sling or two to link the points of the third belay. A single 40 m rope is enough. You can link it into three pitches (1+2, 3+4, 5) with more quickdraws.
Due south at about 740 m. The sector page lists February to December; it is very hot in summer: a party starting at 8:00 in late June found it already scorching. Watch for nesting restrictions (2023 report).
Forecast · next 7 days · 740 m
Loading the forecast.
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| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 740 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 5 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 4 | 5 | 9 | 13 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 18 | 14 | 8 | 4 |
| Mean daily low °C | −2 | −2 | 1 | 4 | 8 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 10 | 6 | 2 | −1 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 12 | 14 | 15 | 18 | 18 | 17 | 16 | 14 | 14 | 14 | 15 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 780 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
No reports yet.
Switzerland · Bernese Jura (La Heutte & St-Imier)
A modern line up the big slab above St-Imier: two long easy pitches of slab, then a 6b crux and a 5c+ finish on the fine rock of the upper slab. Bolted ground-up in 2013, with chain belays and an abseil option.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches140 m
Around 5c · about 5 pitches
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
The easiest and one of the most repeated long routes on the Gaeta sea cliff. You abseil to a terrace just above the waves, traverse left, pull one polished 5c move and then climb chimneys and clefts beside a huge detached needle to the cliff top. The setting is the attraction: bridging in a chimney hanging over the sea.
5cVI5.95cVI5.95 pitches155 m
Committing
France · Gorges du Tarn
The easiest way up the Roc Aiguille, a slender tower above the Pas de Soucy. A polished 5c corner and an odd crawl through a slot lead to three pitches of big holds on compact rock, then an airy traverse along the summit arête with a view straight down the gorge. Popular: expect queues in summer.
5cVI5.95cVI5.95 pitches100 m
Austria · Inntal (Haiming Geierwand)
The easiest worthwhile line on the lower tier of the Geierwand. Most people know only its first pitch as a single-pitch climb, but four more good pitches continue to the big ledge on edges and pockets, with a long traverse and a short chimney in the middle. Mostly around 5a with a few 5c passages.
5cVI5.95cVI5.95 pitches130 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A morning-sun route at the quieter Agüero mallos. Easy slabs separate two fine steep walls, including a superb vertical 5c plaque on pitch 4. Take care with some loose cobbles on the last traverse.
5cVI5.95cVI5.95 pitches145 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.