Nösslachwand, Längenfeld (Au) · Ötztal · Austria
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: medium
Seven pitches of gneiss slab and wall with thin cracks, right of the big water streak. It starts in vegetation and gets steadily better, with short tricky passages throughout and the hardest move at the very top.
The route
A sustained slab and wall route in the Sonnenblume sector, a clear step up from Sonnenblume itself. The first pitch is vegetated, the middle of the wall is steep, and the crux comes high on the seventh pitch. Protection is good to very good and the approach and descent are easy to find. Like its neighbours it is often damp at the bottom.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4c | 25 m | Starts in vegetated ground. |
| P2 | 5a | 20 m | No pitch description in the free sources; the grade and length are from the Climbers Paradise table. |
| P3 | 6a | 35 m | No pitch description in the free sources; the grade and length are from the Climbers Paradise table. |
| P4 | 5c | 30 m | No pitch description in the free sources; the grade and length are from the Climbers Paradise table. |
| P5 | 6a | 30 m | No pitch description in the free sources; the grade and length are from the Climbers Paradise table. |
| P6 | 5c+ | 25 m | No pitch description in the free sources; the grade and length are from the Climbers Paradise table. |
| P7 | 6a+ | 35 m | The hardest move of the route is right at the top of this pitch (UIAA 7-). |
Getting there
Leave the A12 at the Ötztal exit and drive up the valley through Umhausen. After the village the valley narrows; where it widens again, at Au just before Längenfeld, a small sewage works with a chapel stands on the left. Park on the signed gravel car park on the bank of the Ötztaler Ache, opposite the works; do not park at the chapel or the recycling yard. By public transport, take the train to Ötztal-Bahnhof and the bus to Au (Längenfeld).
From the car park go through the cycle-path underpass to the sewage works on the other side of the road, then left on the hiking path towards Wiesle. About 50 m after a wayside shrine, at a clearing, a clear track marked by a small cairn branches right to the foot of the wall and a rock platform. Pass the platform where Sonnenblume starts and descend along the foot of the wall. The start is on a ledge with a bolt; the name is faintly written on the rock. Start height about 1200 m. About 15 to 20 minutes.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Signed car park by the Ötztaler Ache at Au
Point from bergsteigen.com map marker (route start, approximate)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.10901, 10.95353 (route base) · Parking: 47.10560, 10.95314
Getting down
From the top go right along a ledge at first, then after a step back left so that you walk back above the exit. Follow the orange marks to the hiking path and take it back to the car park. Climbers Paradise describes red dots; allow 30 minutes.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented; the normal descent is on foot. Pitches are 20 to 35 m. The neighbouring Sonnenblume has chain belays, but the belay hardware on Träumerei is not described.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
West to south-west facing gneiss between about 1200 and 1370 m. Climbers Paradise gives June to September as the best season. The routes sit beside a water streak, so the lower pitches are often damp: start only after a dry day. Climbers Paradise says the west-facing Roxette sector of the same wall gets the sun from about 15:00 in summer, so expect shade in the morning here too (inferred).
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −0 | 2 | 5 | 8 | 13 | 17 | 19 | 19 | 16 | 12 | 5 | 1 |
| Mean daily low °C | −10 | −8 | −4 | −1 | 3 | 7 | 9 | 9 | 6 | 1 | −5 | −9 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 12 | 12 | 15 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 21 | 15 | 13 | 13 | 13 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1267 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
14 quickdraws, a 60 m single or double rope, helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Träumerei.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.