Cara de Mico (La Plantació, above the Gorros) · Montserrat · Spain
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A friendly introduction to Montserrat conglomerate on a quiet needle beyond the Gorros: a steep, well-bolted wall off a big triangular block, two easy pitches, and a vertical corner with the 5c crux, which can be pulled through on the bolts. Comfortable belays and a single short abseil off the top.
The route
Four pitches up the Cara de Mico, also called the Agulla de la Plantació, a needle a few minutes below the Sant Jeroni path beyond the Gorra Frígia. The route was equipped in 2011 in Guillem Arias's generous style and every source calls it well bolted. The first pitch starts steeply on excellent holds and eases; the middle pitches are easy slabs and a spur; the last pitch climbs a vertical corner with the hardest moves. A 2022 party called it perfect for a first multipitch or a first contact with Montserrat rock. Some find the middle pitches too easy to be interesting.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | 35 m | 11 bolts | Climb onto the block and up a short, fairly thin wall (5b/5c) with close bolts. The angle then eases and the bolts are further apart to the belay. The Spanish-language camptocamp page and a 2011 blog give 5a or IV+. |
| P2 | 3c | 30 m | 7 bolts | An easy transition pitch trending left, with few bolts and no difficulty. |
| P3 | 4b | 25 m | 6 bolts | A slightly steeper spur to a belay below a bulge. The rock is less good here. Other sources give 4c and 20 m. |
| P4 | 5c | 35 m | 13 bolts | Traverse left following the bolts to a vertical corner (5b) that pushes you out at first; the crux is 5c or A0. A small sloping arete and an easy little corner lead to the abseil belay on top. |
Getting there
Montserrat monastery, reached by road from Monistrol (BP-1121) or by FGC train from Barcelona (Manresa line) connecting with the rack railway or the cable car. Camptocamp suggests parking just above the hairpin at the monastery toll, which it describes as free, and walking up through the car parks; a 2016 party paid €6.50 for the day in the monastery car park, which fills early at weekends. The Sant Joan funicular from the monastery saves about 350 m of ascent; camptocamp quotes €15 return and €9.50 one way for its upper section.
About 30 minutes from the top station of the Sant Joan funicular, or about 1 hour on foot from the monastery by the Plaça de Santa Anna and the PR C-19. Follow the Sant Jeroni path (Camí Nou) past the foot of the Gorra Frígia and through two cuttings in the rock. After the second, about 50 m before the concrete viewpoint of the Serra de les Paparres, take a path that drops steeply left towards the Sentinella needle. Keep left and down to the base of the Plantació needle, then follow the foot of the cliff down and back up to a big triangular block. The route starts on the block; the bolts are painted yellow.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 1187372 (Cara de Mico / Plantació summit)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 41.59093, 1.82465 (crag) · Parking: 41.59545, 1.83938
Getting down
From the summit make one abseil of about 20 m (15 m according to a 2011 blog) down the north-west side to a small col between the Cara de Mico and the Paparra. A small path leads in a few minutes back to the main Sant Jeroni trail. Return the way you came.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
No source describes retreating from part-way up. The belays are bolted and comfortable and the pitches are 20 to 35 m, so abseiling from a stance should work with a 50 m rope doubled only on the shorter pitches; the leftward traverse on pitch 4 is the awkward part. The route is short and the top is close.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South to south-west facing at about 1000 m, so it is the sunny alternative when the north faces of the Gorros are wet or cold: a November 2022 party came here because the north-facing routes were in shade and a 60 km/h wind. Ascents are logged in February, March, April, September and November.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 6 | 8 | 11 | 13 | 17 | 21 | 24 | 23 | 19 | 15 | 10 | 7 |
| Mean daily low °C | −3 | −3 | 0 | 3 | 6 | 10 | 13 | 14 | 10 | 7 | 1 | −2 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 6 | 6 | 7 | 10 | 9 | 7 | 7 | 9 | 12 | 10 | 7 | 6 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1072 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
12 to 14 quickdraws, slings and belay kit, and a 50 m rope for the abseil. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Via Infidel.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.