El Schenun (Valle dei Bagni, Val Masino) · Valtellina & Valchiavenna · Italy
Five pitches of slab and steeper slab on excellent granite next to La coda del Dinosauro, slightly more sustained, with 6a and 6a+ on pitches 3 and 4. Roadside and well bolted.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point about 1300 m above sea level (estimate: terrain height at the mapped point plus the height of the route).
6a+VII-5.10b5 pitches · 130 mEasy to bail
Vietato vietare is the third route from the left on El Schenun, the roadside granite slab on the way up to Bagni di Masino. It is a little harder and more sustained than its left-hand neighbour, La coda del Dinosauro, with 6a and 6a+ back to back in the middle, but the bolting is close and the line obvious: you just follow the bolts. Most parties climb both routes in a morning.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Valtellina Rock Pareti - Multipitch sportivi e trad.
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5bVI-5.8 | Slab. |
| P2 | 5cVI5.9 | Slab. |
| P3 | 6aVI+5.10a | Sustained slab. |
| P4 | 6a+VII-5.10b | The crux. |
| P5 | 5bVI-5.8 | Easier finish. |
From Morbegno on the Valtellina road (SS38) take the Val Masino road (SS404) via Ardenno to San Martino, then continue up the Valle dei Bagni towards Bagni di Masino. The crag is right above the road between San Martino and Bagni di Masino, with a small car park at its foot. In summer a bus (line A20 from Morbegno station) runs up to Bagni di Masino.
From the car park (46.241388, 9.605933) you reach the face directly. Pass round some trees over fallen boulders and you are at the start, the third route from the left.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Parking
Point from camptocamp waypoint 1454478 (El Schenun)
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 46.24172, 9.60621 (crag) · Parking: 46.24139, 9.60593
You can abseil the route (belays linked with cord and a quick link), but the camptocamp author recommends the better abseil stations of La coda del Dinosauro to the left: three abseils of 50 m.
Easy to bail
The belays are bolted and linked with cord and a quick link, and camptocamp says you can abseil the route, although the neighbouring route's abseil line is better. The slab is short and close to the road.
Italy
112Emergency, where the single number is in service
Emergency, where the single number is in service
Where 112 is not yet the single number, call 118 and ask for CNSAS.
Position of the crag
46.24172, 9.60621
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
Two 50 m ropes. No quickdraw count is published. No cams or nuts.
South-facing at about 1100 m; the season shown is inferred from altitude and aspect.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1300 m
Loading the forecast.
| Measure | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 1300 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 5 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 1 | 3 | 6 | 10 | 15 | 19 | 21 | 21 | 16 | 12 | 6 | 2 |
| Mean daily low °C | −7 | −6 | −2 | 2 | 6 | 10 | 12 | 12 | 8 | 4 | −0 | −5 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 8 | 8 | 9 | 14 | 18 | 17 | 16 | 15 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 9 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1182 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Italy · Valtellina & Valchiavenna
A six-pitch friction climb on dark, grippy Masino granite that starts 20 m from the car. Mostly 5b to 5c with a 6a+ fifth pitch; 5b obligatory. A good fast outing after the area's bold trad slabs.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b6 pitches150 m
Italy · Valtellina & Valchiavenna
Six short pitches up the first (north) tooth of the Denti della Vecchia at 2000 m above the Pescegallo ski area, mostly 5b to 5c with one 6a pitch. Stainless glue-ins and a summer chairlift make it a relaxed alpine half-day.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a6 pitches95 m
Around 6a+ · about 5 pitches
Switzerland · Furka
Five sustained pitches on the left side of the Hannibalturm, never easier than 5c+ and never much harder than 6a+. A smooth friction slab leads to steep wall climbing, a pillar, a flake and a corner, and the route finishes up a ladder of huge quartz knobs. Many parties rate it the best line on the tower and find the second pitch the hardest.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b5 pitches170 m
Spain · Montserrat
A modern linkup over two pinnacles on excellent conglomerate. Overhanging 6a and 6a+ walls alternate with easy 'potato-field' slabs. The new bolting makes it one of the most reassuring long lines in the massif.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b5 pitches185 m
France · Verdon
A 1985 classic of the Escalès, a grade harder and noticeably bolder than Les Dalles Grises next door. Five pitches on pockets and slabs, starting with polished rising traverses and finishing up a sculpted wall of vertical flutings, an overhanging crack and a bulge at 6a+. You need to be solid at 6a to enjoy it.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b5 pitches150 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Germany · Ammergauer Alpen
The popular sport line of the Geiselstein south face, straight up to the summit cross. Long, steep pitches on excellent rough limestone, sustained at UIAA 6- to 6 with two short passages of 6+ and one easier pitch on less reliable rock. Never easy and never crowded with bolts: you climb between them.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b5 pitches210 m
Read the cautions
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.