Rocca di Pescegallo – Denti della Vecchia (Val Gerola) · Valtellina & Valchiavenna · Italy
Six short pitches up the first (north) tooth of the Denti della Vecchia at 2000 m above the Pescegallo ski area, mostly 5b to 5c with one 6a pitch. Stainless glue-ins and a summer chairlift make it a relaxed alpine half-day.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point 2125 m above sea level (camptocamp route 176700).
6aVI+5.10a6 pitches · 95 mEasy to bail
The Denti della Vecchia are rocky teeth on the Rocca di Pescegallo at the head of Val Gerola, a side valley of Valtellina, above the small Pescegallo ski area. Impossibile Florens climbs the north-east face of the first (north) tooth for four pitches, then the north-west face for the last two. The pitches are short (95 m in total) and mostly 5b to 5c, with a 6a fourth pitch. It is equipped with stainless glue-ins and you abseil back down the line, so the main commitment is the altitude and the weather.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Valtellina Rock Pareti - Multipitch sportivi e trad.
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5bVI-5.8 | North-east face of the north tooth. |
| P2 | 4bIV+5.5 | Easy pitch. |
| P3 | 5cVI5.9 | North-east face. |
| P4 | 6aVI+5.10a | The crux pitch, still on the north-east face. |
| P5 | 5bVI-5.8 | The route moves onto the north-west face. |
| P6 | 5aV+5.7 | North-west face to the top. |
From Morbegno on the Valtellina road (SS38) take the Val Gerola road (SS405) through Rasura, Pedesina and Gerola Alta to Pescegallo (1450 m) and park in the chairlift car park.
From the chairlift car park follow the dirt road (often closed by a barrier) up to the Pianone di Salmurano. At the last hairpin turn right, pass a hut and follow a good path west past the avalanche barriers to the foot of the wall: about 1 hour. In summer the chairlift runs to the Rifugio Salmurano (weekends from mid-June to mid-September and every day in August); from the hut it is 20 min.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Parking
Point from camptocamp waypoint 176695 (Rocca di Pescegallo – Denti della Vecchia)
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 46.02862, 9.56530 (crag) · Parking: 46.03773, 9.57214
Abseil down the route.
Easy to bail
The normal descent is to abseil the route, so every belay is a rigged retreat point. The pitches are short and a single 50 m rope is enough.
Italy
112Emergency, where the single number is in service
Emergency, where the single number is in service
Where 112 is not yet the single number, call 118 and ask for CNSAS.
Position of the crag
46.02862, 9.56530
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
10 quickdraws and a single 50 m rope (camptocamp). Helmet.
North-east facing at 2030 to 2125 m, so cool and shady: a summer route. Snow lingers into early summer at this altitude. The months shown are inferred; no source gives a season.
Forecast · next 7 days · 2125 m
Loading the forecast.
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| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 2125 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 6 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · NE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 1 | 3 | 6 | 10 | 15 | 19 | 21 | 21 | 16 | 12 | 6 | 2 |
| Mean daily low °C | −7 | −6 | −2 | 2 | 6 | 10 | 12 | 12 | 8 | 4 | −0 | −5 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 8 | 8 | 9 | 14 | 18 | 17 | 16 | 15 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 9 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1182 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Italy · Valtellina & Valchiavenna
A six-pitch friction climb on dark, grippy Masino granite that starts 20 m from the car. Mostly 5b to 5c with a 6a+ fifth pitch; 5b obligatory. A good fast outing after the area's bold trad slabs.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b6 pitches150 m
Italy · Valtellina & Valchiavenna
Five pitches of slab and steeper slab on excellent granite next to La coda del Dinosauro, slightly more sustained, with 6a and 6a+ on pitches 3 and 4. Roadside and well bolted.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b5 pitches130 m
Around 6a · about 6 pitches
Croatia · Omiš
Omiš's signature moderate: long, slabby pitches on knobbly grey limestone with big views over the Cetina mouth and the Adriatic. The crux is a short crack on the final pitch.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a6 pitches230 m
Switzerland · Bernese Oberland
The most popular route at Hintisberg: six pitches from the lowest point of the wall, with slabs, a technical wall and small overhangs to turn. It gets better as it rises and ends on a superb wall of pockets, where the obligatory 6a crux lies. Expect a queue on fine weekends.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a6 pitches200 m
Germany · Berchtesgaden & Bad Reichenhall
Six pitches on excellent grippy limestone with views to the Watzmann, established 2012. Pitch grades are converted from the UIAA topo (6-, 6, 6, 5+, 5+, 6); 5 is obligatory.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a6 pitches165 m
Switzerland · Gastlosen
Six pitches of water-worn runnels and compact slab on the south face of the Pfadflue, ending on a ledge at mid-height. Pitch 4 pulls over a small overhang and pitch 5 is a delicate, holdless friction slab. You can carry on up the last five pitches of Salü Jan to the summit.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a6 pitches250 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.