Pilastro di Prada (Pizzo dei Nibbi), Grigna Settentrionale · Lecco & Valsassina · Italy
A short, sunny and very well protected route on a pale limestone pillar just past the Porta di Prada arch, at about 1700 to 1800 m. Easy pitches lead to one steep pillar pitch with a full 6a move (aidable). Belays were renewed with stainless chains in 2026.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point 1811 m above sea level (camptocamp route 286445).
6aVI+5.10a5 pitches · 130 mEasy to bail
Via CAI Vedano climbs the south side of the Pilastro di Prada, a pale limestone pillar on the Pizzo dei Nibbi in the Grigna Settentrionale, right beside the path to the Rifugio Bietti. It is a short day: an hour's walk, about two hours of climbing and an easy descent. The first pitch is shared with Via della Libertà, then the route traverses right and climbs a compact pillar with pockets to the one hard move, a full 6a that can be aided on the bolts. Larioclimb, the Lecco topo site, reminds climbers that it is still a mountain multipitch, not a crag, despite the dense bolting.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo at Larioclimb – bacheca, 22 June 2026 note on Via CAI Vedano, or in Lario Rock Pareti.
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4cV5.6 | Shared with Via della Libertà: grassy ground then a slab with flakes to S1. UIAA III/IV to V-. |
| P2 | 4bIV+5.5 | An easy traverse right on edges and pockets, over a small rib, to S2. UIAA IV+. |
| P3 | 6aVI+5.10a | Up a ramp and the compact pillar with pockets: the crux, a full 6a (UIAA VI+), aidable. Several parties call it the hardest move by a distance. |
| P4 | 4bIV+5.5 | Shallow corners. UIAA IV to IV+. |
| P5 | 4bIV+5.5 | Two short steps on the crest and a slab to the top belay. UIAA IV+; the rock is more friable near the exit. |
Lecco, then the lake road to Varenna and up to Esino Lario and the Cainallo. From the Cainallo a toll road continues to the large car park at the Vò di Moncodeno (1436 m); pay at the machine at the entrance of the Rifugio/albergo Cainallo.
Follow the path towards the Rifugio Bogani; after about 20 min leave it to the right for the Bocchetta di Prada (signs for the Rifugio Bietti). Go through the natural arch of the Porta di Prada and continue to the foot of the obvious pillar, below which the Bietti path passes. A little under an hour from the car.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Point from camptocamp waypoint 286444 (Pilastro di Prada)
Contains the route point.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 45.96700, 9.36800 (crag)
The original topo gives one 20 m abseil into the gully to the east. Camptocamp and a 2016 party recommend abseiling on the side opposite Via della Libertà, towards the Bocchetta di Piancaformia, to a tree about 10 m lower: with two 60 m half ropes you reach the grassy slopes, with a single rope you land on a big grassy ledge and downclimb a little. Then head down the scree to the right to rejoin the Bietti path. You can also abseil Via della Libertà. Since June 2026 the top belay has a double abseil ring.
Easy to bail
All five belays are bolted, and S1 to S4 have had stainless chains with rings since June 2026, so you can abseil the line from any of them. The pitches are short.
Italy
112Emergency, where the single number is in service
Emergency, where the single number is in service
Where 112 is not yet the single number, call 118 and ask for CNSAS.
Position of the crag
45.96700, 9.36800
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
12 quickdraws (original topo). Two 60 m half ropes make the descent simplest.
South-facing (sources say SSE or SW) at 1700 to 1811 m, sunny and quick to dry. Summer and early autumn; the months shown are inferred from altitude and aspect.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1811 m
Loading the forecast.
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| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
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| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
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Model forecast for 1811 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 5 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Lecco & Valsassina are not available yet
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
The first route opened on the Zucco dell'Angelone, following the natural line of the fourth spur by corners, cracks, a chimney and friction slabs. Eight varied pitches at 5a to 5b with an easy crest to finish. Never hard but never trivial either.
5bVI-5.85bVI-5.88 pitches220 m
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
A 1979 Ivan Guerini line up the big slab of the second spur: friction climbing on compact limestone with a few steeper steps, a fine third pitch and a corner to finish. Grades are even, around 5a to 5c, and the bolts are far enough apart that slab confidence matters. You abseil off.
5cVI5.95cVI5.96 pitches120 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
Three friendly pitches up a striking arched flake and compact slabs, then a short wall with one hard, reachy move that most people pull through. A 1980 route by the Savonittos and Alessandro Gogna, and the usual first half of a link-up with Gli Schiavi della Pietra on the spur above.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d4 pitches90 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
The harder companion to La Lumaca di Vetro on the second spur. Delicate slabs with spaced bolts lead to cracks and flakes, then a strenuous last pitch through an overhanging corner and a bulge that goes at 6b+ or mostly on aid. Varied and less travelled than its neighbours.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d6 pitches145 m
Read the cautions
Around 6a · about 5 pitches
France · Gorges de la Jonte
Five pitches beside the Fusée monolith, built around a superb 35 to 40 m corner that ends under a big roof and escapes left across a wildly exposed but easy traverse. Rebolted in 2012 and better protected than most routes here. Rated a must at the grade by several recent parties.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a5 pitches120 m
Italy · Sardinia
An easy line up the edge of the tall sea cliff beside Porto Flavia, starting a few metres above the water. The lower half is broken and unremarkable; the upper arête and slab are on superb, very abrasive grey limestone with a view of the Pan di Zucchero stack. Almost plaisir, in a serious place.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a5 pitches160 m
Italy · Monte Argentario
Three independent pitches on the wall below Capo d'Uomo, ending with a memorable 40 m wall of pockets, drips and flowstone at 6a. The route proper stops on the arête; the opener suggests carrying on up the last two pitches of the Spigolo Bonatti, an exposed 5c traverse and an easy ridge, to finish at the tower.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a5 pitches200 m
Switzerland · Grimsel
A short, varied granite route up a pale, smooth pillar across the valley from the Handegg slabs: a corner crack, then friction and edge slabs that get harder pitch by pitch. Grades are stiff, and the last pitch is sustained and tricky. A good half day or uncertain-weather route with a 15-minute approach.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a5 pitches200 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.