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Youna

Roc Aiguille (Pas de Soucy) · Gorges du Tarn · France

Bail with caveats

A quieter, easier neighbour to Iséki on the Roc Aiguille, bolted in 2022. Mostly grade 4 climbing on big holds, with one fine technical 5b+ pitch, on excellent compact rock and mostly in shade.

Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.

Hardest pitch
5b+5b+
Pitches
5
Length
110 m
Approach
20 min
Aspect
NE
North-east-facing
Rope
2×40 m
the abseil is about 35 to 40 m

Highest point about 700 m above sea level (camptocamp waypoint 346711 (summit)).

Rock
limestone
Season
Apr to Jun, Sep to Oct
Bolting confidence
High
Last verified
October 2026 · Aggregated by AI from published sources

Photo

Climbing modeBig type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.

Overview

Youna was bolted in 2022 to take pressure off Iséki, the busy classic on the Roc Aiguille. It starts from a terrace about 8 m right of Iséki's first belay and follows easy walls and ramps up the right side of the tower to the summit arête. The second pitch, with some technical flat-footed moves, is the only real difficulty and is a step above the rest. The rock is excellent and compact, and the face is in shade in the morning.

Worth knowing

  • A nice combination: pitches 1 and 2 of Iséki, then pitches 2 to 4 of Youna, then Iséki's summit arête.
  • Allow about 1.5 to 3 hours on the route.

Pitch by pitch

The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo at camptocamp.org, or in Les Gorges du Tarn.

Pitches of Youna
PitchGradeLengthNotes
P14b15 mUp and left; short. Closely bolted.
P25b+25 mA few technical moves on flat footholds; the bolting lets you aid the hard moves, though one 2026 party found you climb between bolts and should have some margin. Belay on a wide step.
P34b30 mUp the easy ramp leftwards, then step right onto big jugs.
P44a20 mVery easy linking pitch to Iséki's fourth belay; route-finding needs care and the bolts are sometimes far apart. At the arête, step over to the far side to find the belay. Easy to miss, in which case you finish up Iséki's last pitch.
P55b20 mFollow the stainless plates up and left, an easy traverse and one trickier step up to the arête. Belay on plates; the chained abseil station just over the arête is handier.

Approach

To the parking

As for Iséki: park on the D907bis about 500 m beyond the Pas de Soucy viewpoint, between Les Vignes and Le Rozier, or at the canoe landing nearby.

On foot · about 20 min

About 15 to 20 minutes up the steep path signed B1 (keep left at each junction). Pass Iséki's start, continue up past the second B1 sign and a rung, and the route starts on the wall to the left of the first fixed ropes, on a terrace with the name painted in blue. The fixed ropes higher up are the descent path.

Map of the walk-in

Point from camptocamp route 1481289

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point.

Points from published sources, not surveyed.

Descent

Step over the arête to the chained station and abseil about 35 to 40 m. Then follow the path north along the foot of the face, with fixed ropes and iron rungs, back to the start. The path is steep and slippery when covered in autumn leaves.

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

Short route with bolted belays and an abseil descent from the top. Retreat from any belay by abseiling the line, leaving a maillon to join the two bolts.

Retreat from
Any belay.
Point of no return
None documented.
Carry
A maillon or cord per belay used; ropes for about 35 to 40 m.
Basis
Inferred from the route factsOnly the top abseil is described; mid-route retreat is inferred from the bolted belays and short pitches.

France

In an emergency

In an emergency · France

112Emergency; sends PGHM or CRS mountain rescue

Call 112

Emergency; sends PGHM or CRS mountain rescue

Position of the route base

44.29183, 3.23417

Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (source).

Hazards

  • Pitch 4 is easy but the bolts are spaced and the line is not obvious; it is easy to miss R4.
  • The descent path after the abseil is steep and exposed in places, with fixed ropes.

Gear

Quickdraws (number not published), slings to link the belay bolts, ropes for a 35 to 40 m abseil (a party with 2×45 m doubted a single 70 m would reach). Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
Not given
Rope
2×40 m (the abseil is about 35 to 40 m)
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
For abseiling
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat
Cord
Mentioned for retreat

Conditions

Plan B nearby

Also on Roc Aiguille (Pas de Soucy)

  • Iséki5c5 pitchesfaces NE

Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.

Reader reports

No reports yet.

Report a problem with this route

Say what and where. Reports are checked before they appear; no name or email is stored.

Bolts and history

Bolting
Bolted in summer 2022 with 12 mm stainless glue-ins and expansion bolts; the last pitch is on stainless plates. Belays are bolted but not linked. Bolts are close on the first pitch and spread out on the easy fourth pitch.
History
Equipped in summer 2022 by Sam Galzin and Florian Vizier.
Guidebook
Gorges du Tarn (2025 edition), the club topo for the Tarn, Jonte and Dourbie gorges. Buy from kletterfuehrer.net.

Where sources disagree

  • Abseil length: the route page gives 35 m, a 2025 party quoting the guidebook about 40 m, and another party a 40 m abseil.

Sources

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Read the cautions

Around 5b+ · about 5 pitches

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Committing

Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.