Sector Tubo, Barranco de la Maimona · Montanejos · Spain
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
The easy multipitch of the Maimona gorge, bolted in 2019 as a first long route: four pitches of grade 4 slabs and walls with one 5+ pitch. The line climbs the grey wall on the right of the Tubo sector, beside Parados al Sol. The exits of most pitches have loose rock, so a helmet matters more than the grade suggests.
The route
A four-pitch introduction to multipitch climbing on the Tubo sector, the grey wall right of the orange Paredón del Alguacil. It was opened from the ground in March 2019 by Rafa B. and Raúl N. of Máxima Aventura and bolted throughout with 12 mm bolts and belays with lower-offs. The climbing is mostly grade 4 with a single 5+ pitch. The opener warns that the ends of most pitches cross ledges with loose rock, which is also why the walk-off is preferred to abseiling.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4+ | 35 m | From the R0 stance, reached by about 15 m of grade 3, climb the wall to a belay level with the ledge used by the Tubo routes. |
| P2 | 4 | 30 m | Easy climbing trending slightly right. |
| P3 | 5+ | 35 m | The hardest pitch, up the steeper middle wall. |
| P4 | 4 | 25 m | An easier wall to the top. Expect loose rock on the exit ledges. |
Getting there
Montanejos is in inland Castellón province, on the CV-20 up the Mijares valley from Onda. The gorge starts at the climbers' refuge (Albergue El Refugio) by the Maimona bridge at the entrance to the village. Camptocamp says camping is not allowed, and that there is water at the village fountain or at the car park after the bridge. No source read gives public transport details.
About 25 minutes (topo). Walk up the bed of the Barranco de la Maimona from the refuge. Almost past the Paredón del Alguacil, watch for a cairn on the right marking a scramble protected by a steel cable. Above the scramble, follow the path right to skirt the walls. The topo shows about 15 m of grade 3 scrambling to the first bolted stance (R0). The route is the line right of Parados al Sol.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp route 1705135 (own point, El Tubo sector, the same wall); the gorge position agrees with OSM node 5238792821 (Sector Xulo Panderas). The camptocamp Montanejos waypoint 189249 is a rough point about 1.4 km away and was not used.
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 40.07007, -0.53294 (crag)
Getting down
On foot, as the opener recommends. From the top go up a few metres to the path and follow it right without leaving it: it passes the Placas al Sol sector and the refuge and ends at the road into the village. Abseiling is possible because the belays have lower-offs, but the ledges at the top of the wall hold loose rock.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Every belay has a lower-off and the opener calls the belays abseilable, so you can retreat from any stance. Walking off is preferred from the top only because of loose rock on the upper ledges.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
No source gives the aspect of this line. Neighbouring routes on the same wall are listed as south-east facing on camptocamp, and a February 2026 party on the adjacent Paredón del Alguacil had sun from about 09:00 and shade from about 16:00. Ascents in the gorge are logged from October to April.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 11 | 12 | 15 | 18 | 21 | 25 | 29 | 28 | 24 | 20 | 15 | 12 |
| Mean daily low °C | 3 | 3 | 5 | 7 | 10 | 14 | 17 | 18 | 14 | 11 | 6 | 4 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 6 | 5 | 7 | 9 | 9 | 7 | 4 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 6 | 6 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 700 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
12 quickdraws and belay kit (topo). Helmet. No source states a rope length; pitches are up to 35 m and the descent is on foot.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to La Magia de tu Melena.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Spain · Montanejos
Eight pitches up a vertical prow deep in the Maimona canyon, on orange rock full of pockets (agujeros means holes). Sustained at 6a+ to 6b and physical throughout, with a huge roof start to the crux pitch and a bench to sit on at the third belay. Closed from January to June.
6b+8 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Montanejos
Seven varied pitches in two halves split by a big ledge: vertical walls and cracks below, then an overhanging red wall and a traverse on a carpet of sharp little spikes beneath giant roofs. In the sun from the morning, unpolished, with an easy walk down.
6b+7 pitches170 m
Spain · Montanejos
A moderate four-pitch line up the middle of the Tubo sector: a grade 5 corner, a cracked corner with a traverse at 6a, a slab that steepens to 6a between two junipers, and an easy finish. All four belays are described as comfortable. A good step up from La Magia de tu Melena next door.
6a4 pitches130 m
Spain · Montanejos
Four steep pitches up the orange wall of the Paredón del Alguacil, on pockets and big holds on vertical to gently overhanging rock. The second pitch is the one parties rave about; the third has the 6b+ move on smaller holds near its end. Short, sustained and sunny, with a 43 m first pitch.
6b+4 pitches115 m
Committing
Around 5+ · about 4 pitches
Croatia · Omiš
An easy, friendly route up a small tower and the ribs above it, on rock covered in knobs and warts. It is one of the very few bolted multipitch routes at this grade around Omiš and was put up with beginners in mind. The second belay touches the path, so you can walk off half-way.
5b+4 pitches130 m
France · Verdon
One of the few Verdon multipitches at an even 5b: five short pitches on featured grey limestone above the Baou Béni, with a 6a variant for the third pitch. The approach is part of the outing: you go down a 100 m wall on fixed ropes, the escape route of the Mainmorte canyon. Well bolted and popular as a first Verdon route.
5b+5 pitches120 m
France · Gorges de la Jonte
The pillar that gives the sector its name, climbed in four short pitches on grey, well-featured rock. The third pitch is a sustained vertical crack and the best of the route. It is the usual first multipitch for visitors because the bolts are closer than elsewhere in the gorge.
5c4 pitches100 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The best-known route on the Mallo Colorado. Two steep, juggy panza pitches have a well-protected boulder move, giving a short taste of real Riglos steepness at a friendly grade.
5c4 pitches150 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
