Paredón del Alguacil, Barranco de la Maimona · Montanejos · Spain
CommittingBolting confidence: high
Four steep pitches up the orange wall of the Paredón del Alguacil, on pockets and big holds on vertical to gently overhanging rock. The second pitch is the one parties rave about; the third has the 6b+ move on smaller holds near its end. Short, sustained and sunny, with a 43 m first pitch.
The route
A short, steep sport multipitch on the orange face of the Paredón del Alguacil, left of Los Guardianes del Templo and right of El Tordo y el Flaco. After a long 6a approach pitch on grey rock, three pitches of 6b to 6b+ climb the orange wall on pockets and good holds. The equipper's topo says the rock was awkward on the first repeats and has cleaned up with traffic, with a section on pitch 3 still needing attention; a 2025 camptocamp party agrees. Allow about two hours on the route.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | 43 m | A long pitch up the grey lower wall to the foot of the orange rock. Start at the thread with the faded red cord. |
| P2 | 6b | 34 m | The pitch of the route: sustained climbing on good holds and pockets up steep orange rock. |
| P3 | 6b+ | 22 m | Good holds, then a thinner section near the end. The rock needs some care here. |
| P4 | 6b | 24 m | A steep, demanding wall to the top. Camptocamp gives 6b to 6b+. |
Getting there
Montanejos is in inland Castellón province, on the CV-20 up the Mijares valley from Onda. The gorge starts at the climbers' refuge (Albergue El Refugio) by the Maimona bridge at the entrance to the village. Camptocamp says camping is not allowed, and that there is water at the village fountain or at the car park after the bridge. No source read gives public transport details.
About 20 to 25 minutes. Walk up the bed of the Barranco de la Maimona from the refuge until the Paredón del Alguacil, a wall of about 150 m, shows up high on the right. Find the orange spur left of the El Tubo sector and scramble up the gully by the easiest line (grade II); elev-arte describes a scramble protected by steel cables about 200 m beyond the wall. The first protection point is a rock thread with a faded red cord at about 5 m. El Tordo y el Flaco starts just to its left.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp route 1705135 (own point, El Tubo sector, the same wall); the gorge position agrees with OSM node 5238792821 (Sector Xulo Panderas). The camptocamp Montanejos waypoint 189249 is a rough point about 1.4 km away and was not used.
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 40.07007, -0.53294 (crag)
Getting down
The route is not equipped for abseiling. Either walk off: head right from the top to the descent path, which brings you back above the refuge. Or abseil elsewhere: go up and left to the abseil line of the Paredón del Alguacil (the route Cornelius Moliarte is the one elev-arte names), which camptocamp recommends, or go right, aim for a lone pine, descend a stony gully to a first anchor on a small platform and abseil the Tubo sector (about 60 m to a cabled ledge, then 30 to 40 m).
Retreat
Committing
Both sources say the route is not equipped for abseiling, and the first pitch is 43 m. The belays are bolted, so a retreat is physically possible with two ropes if you leave maillons or karabiners, but nobody describes doing it. The climbing is steep, so the ropes hang free of the wall on the upper pitches.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-facing (camptocamp). A February 2026 party on the neighbouring route had sun from about 09:00 and shade from about 16:00. Ascents are logged in February; the wall suits clear days from autumn to spring.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 11 | 12 | 15 | 18 | 21 | 25 | 29 | 28 | 24 | 20 | 15 | 12 |
| Mean daily low °C | 3 | 3 | 5 | 7 | 10 | 14 | 17 | 18 | 14 | 11 | 6 | 4 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 6 | 5 | 7 | 9 | 9 | 7 | 4 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 6 | 6 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 700 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
15 quickdraws and belay kit (both sources). Helmet essential, says the equipper's topo. Single rope if you walk off; two 60 m ropes for the Tubo abseils.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Radio Patio.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Spain · Montanejos
Eight pitches up a vertical prow deep in the Maimona canyon, on orange rock full of pockets (agujeros means holes). Sustained at 6a+ to 6b and physical throughout, with a huge roof start to the crux pitch and a bench to sit on at the third belay. Closed from January to June.
6b+8 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Montanejos
Seven varied pitches in two halves split by a big ledge: vertical walls and cracks below, then an overhanging red wall and a traverse on a carpet of sharp little spikes beneath giant roofs. In the sun from the morning, unpolished, with an easy walk down.
6b+7 pitches170 m
Spain · Montanejos
The easy multipitch of the Maimona gorge, bolted in 2019 as a first long route: four pitches of grade 4 slabs and walls with one 5+ pitch. The line climbs the grey wall on the right of the Tubo sector, beside Parados al Sol. The exits of most pitches have loose rock, so a helmet matters more than the grade suggests.
5+4 pitches125 m
Spain · Montanejos
A moderate four-pitch line up the middle of the Tubo sector: a grade 5 corner, a cracked corner with a traverse at 6a, a slab that steepens to 6a between two junipers, and an easy finish. All four belays are described as comfortable. A good step up from La Magia de tu Melena next door.
6a4 pitches130 m
Around 6b+ · about 4 pitches
Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
Sustained slab climbing up a striking black streak, clearly visible from the pass, on surprisingly good rock for this face. The crux is a move from slab into a corner on P2.
6b+4 pitches105 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.
6b+4 pitches160 m
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
Three friendly pitches up a striking arched flake and compact slabs, then a short wall with one hard, reachy move that most people pull through. A 1980 route by the Savonittos and Alessandro Gogna, and the usual first half of a link-up with Gli Schiavi della Pietra on the spur above.
6b+4 pitches90 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
A big line up the full height of the Bomberos wall: a 40 m tufa pitch that is a popular climb in its own right, easy broken ground, a steeper 6a, and a long, steep, technical 6b+ wall to finish. The top pitch cannot be aided past its crux, so this is a route for a solid 6b+ leader.
6b+4 pitches155 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.