Sector Tubo, Barranco de la Maimona · Montanejos · Spain
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
A moderate four-pitch line up the middle of the Tubo sector: a grade 5 corner, a cracked corner with a traverse at 6a, a slab that steepens to 6a between two junipers, and an easy finish. All four belays are described as comfortable. A good step up from La Magia de tu Melena next door.
The route
Four pitches up the grey wall of the Tubo sector, between Los Guardianes del Templo on the left and La Magia de tu Melena on the right. The two middle pitches carry the difficulty: a cracked corner with a traverse right, then a slab that steepens gradually. It was equipped in 2011 and the equippers ask only for 12 quickdraws. The top of the route arrives below the upper tier of the gorge, where the second halves of Monsieur and El Río que nos Lleva start.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5 | 35 m | Shared with the routes to the El Tubo sector: grade 4 then a grade 5 corner. Before the ledge, continue straight up to a tree. Comfortable belay. |
| P2 | 6a | 30 m | Straight up a cracked corner (5, then 6a). Just before a fig tree, traverse right to a comfortable belay. |
| P3 | 6a | 35 m | Leave the belay slightly right, keeping some blocks on your left. The slab steepens bit by bit (4, 5+, then 6a), passes between two junipers and reaches a comfortable belay. |
| P4 | 4 | 30 m | A short vertical start on the right, then the wall lies back and you trend right to the top without difficulty. |
Getting there
Montanejos is in inland Castellón province, on the CV-20 up the Mijares valley from Onda. The gorge starts at the climbers' refuge (Albergue El Refugio) by the Maimona bridge at the entrance to the village. Camptocamp says camping is not allowed, and that there is water at the village fountain or at the car park after the bridge. No source read gives public transport details.
About 25 minutes (topo). Walk up the bed of the Barranco de la Maimona from the refuge. Near the far end of the Paredón del Alguacil a cairn on the right marks a scramble protected by a steel cable. The topo shows about 10 m of grade 3 to the R0 stance. The first pitch is shared with the routes that climb to the El Tubo ledge.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp route 1705135 (own point, El Tubo sector, the same wall); the gorge position agrees with OSM node 5238792821 (Sector Xulo Panderas). The camptocamp Montanejos waypoint 189249 is a rough point about 1.4 km away and was not used.
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 40.07007, -0.53294 (crag)
Getting down
On foot. From the top take the path down to the right; a signposted fork leads to the Placas del Sol and Castañas Tostadas sectors, and the main path continues to the refuge and the road. The neighbouring routes' camptocamp pages also describe an abseil line for the Tubo sector, reached from a lone pine on the right and a stony gully: about 60 m then 30 to 40 m, so two 60 m ropes.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Retreat from this route is not described. The four stances are bolted and called comfortable, and the pitches are 30 to 35 m, so abseiling from stance to stance should work with a 70 m rope or two ropes, leaving a maillon if a belay has no ring. The pitch 2 traverse would need care on the way down.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
No source gives the aspect of this line. Neighbouring routes on the same wall are listed as south-east facing on camptocamp, and a February 2026 party on the adjacent Paredón del Alguacil had sun from about 09:00 and shade from about 16:00.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 11 | 12 | 15 | 18 | 21 | 25 | 29 | 28 | 24 | 20 | 15 | 12 |
| Mean daily low °C | 3 | 3 | 5 | 7 | 10 | 14 | 17 | 18 | 14 | 11 | 6 | 4 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 6 | 5 | 7 | 9 | 9 | 7 | 4 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 6 | 6 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 700 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
12 quickdraws and belay kit; the equippers recommend some long draws. Helmet. No source states a rope length.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Parados al Sol.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Spain · Montanejos
Eight pitches up a vertical prow deep in the Maimona canyon, on orange rock full of pockets (agujeros means holes). Sustained at 6a+ to 6b and physical throughout, with a huge roof start to the crux pitch and a bench to sit on at the third belay. Closed from January to June.
6b+8 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Montanejos
Seven varied pitches in two halves split by a big ledge: vertical walls and cracks below, then an overhanging red wall and a traverse on a carpet of sharp little spikes beneath giant roofs. In the sun from the morning, unpolished, with an easy walk down.
6b+7 pitches170 m
Spain · Montanejos
The easy multipitch of the Maimona gorge, bolted in 2019 as a first long route: four pitches of grade 4 slabs and walls with one 5+ pitch. The line climbs the grey wall on the right of the Tubo sector, beside Parados al Sol. The exits of most pitches have loose rock, so a helmet matters more than the grade suggests.
5+4 pitches125 m
Spain · Montanejos
Four steep pitches up the orange wall of the Paredón del Alguacil, on pockets and big holds on vertical to gently overhanging rock. The second pitch is the one parties rave about; the third has the 6b+ move on smaller holds near its end. Short, sustained and sunny, with a 43 m first pitch.
6b+4 pitches115 m
Committing
Around 6a · about 4 pitches
Spain · Montserrat
An exposed, airy line with unusually good holes and jugs for Montserrat, shaded in the afternoon. The 6a pitch is a sustained vertical 20 m. Going straight up instead of following the line is closer to 6b+.
6a4 pitches140 m
Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)
A popular modern four-pitch classic on Pared Negra's compact grey limestone, around UIAA 6/6+ (about French 6a). Best on cool, sunny winter days.
6a4 pitches150 m
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
The most accessible bolted multipitch on the Baou: four homogeneous pitches of French 5+ with one move of 6a, up a crack, corners and sculpted stratified walls, with an airy traverse on pitch 3. Short enough for half a day. Local grades are stiff, the first pitch is polished and the easy sections are run-out.
6a4 pitches120 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Sardinia
A short but superb sea-cliff route on beautifully sculpted limestone in an incredible setting near Pan di Zucchero. Corners and an airy pillar lead to a steep, rounded 6a wall. Camptocamp rates it 'great'.
6a4 pitches120 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
