Punta su Mulone – Sa Costa 'e s'Aidu (Baunei) · Sardinia · Italy
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A 400 m plaisir route above Pedra Longa with the sea behind you all day. Eight easy, vegetated pitches lead to a steep finish: the last three or four pitches, up to 6b, are the real climbing. Closely bolted throughout; the long abseil descent through bushes needs care.
The route
Atlantide climbs the long wall of Sa Costa 'e s'Aidu on Punta su Mulone, the hillside directly above Pedra Longa at the start of the Selvaggio Blu trek. Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu opened it over six days in May and June 2018 as an accessible long route with sport bolting. The first four pitches are little more than an approach on steps and slabs, pitches 5 to 9 are pleasant 5a to 5c+, and the wall then rears up for three steep pitches on better rock. Opinions on the lower part vary, but everyone agrees on the position, the bolting and the quality of the finish. It is one of the easiest long routes on the Baunei coast.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5a | 45 m | 13 bolts | A small corner, a nice wall of good rock, then easy steps to the belay. |
| P2 | 4c | 25 m | 6 bolts | Easy steps and short walls with a slightly harder last move. |
| P3 | 5b | 50 m | 13 bolts | Cross the ledge carefully if there are parties below, then a fine long slab with one steeper passage. |
| P4 | 5a | 35 m | 9 bolts | Easy steps, then cracks and a slight traverse right. |
| P5 | 5c+ | 30 m | 9 bolts | The wall steepens: featured rock, a small corner climbed by bridging and a slab of good rock. |
| P6 | 5c+ | 45 m | 11 bolts | Left onto a slab with a hard move at the start, a ledge, then a series of walls. |
| P7 | 5a | 30 m | 8 bolts | Diagonally right on good rock. The belay is optional. |
| P8 | 5c+ | 20 m | 7 bolts | Straight up a vertical wall, then a tricky short traverse right to the belay. Perched blocks sit just above the traverse and beside the belay. Gulliver.it gives 6a. |
| P9 | 5c+ | 40 m | 12 bolts | Right, then a fine grey wall beside a corner to a belay on a ledge. Gulliver.it gives 6a. |
| P10 | 6a+ | 25 m | 10 bolts | Right, up through a juniper and onto a properly vertical wall, with a short section of poor rock before the belay. Holds have broken here; two parties thought it nearer 6b. |
| P11 | 6b | 25 m | 10 bolts | The crux and the best pitch: right into a corner, then a second, very good corner, and out onto the slab on the left, using the branches of a tree if you like. Gulliver.it gives 6a+. |
| P12 | 6a | 30 m | 10 bolts | A long, lovely slab of water-pocketed rock to the top. |
Getting there
From Baunei take the SS125 towards Santa Maria Navarrese and turn left at the sign for Pedra Longa. Park at a hairpin bend above Pedra Longa where the Selvaggio Blu path starts (a permitted spot with a distinctive tree in the middle of the road), or at the large car park by the bar-restaurant at the bottom and walk back up the road.
15 to 20 minutes. Follow the Selvaggio Blu path uphill below the wall. After 5 minutes the path levels and then starts to descend: do not go down, but take a path south that starts at a large holm oak (the junction is not obvious). It zigzags towards the left side of the wall. When it almost touches the rock, leave it at a bend and reach the start in 10 m. The name is painted at the base but is faint.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Large car park by the bar-restaurant at Pedra Longa (camptocamp access waypoint 568741); the hairpin where the Selvaggio Blu path starts is a little higher up the road
Point from camptocamp waypoint 1053859 (Punta su Mulone)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 40.03151, 9.70116 (crag) · Parking: 40.02752, 9.70582
Getting down
By abseil down the route, about 1 h 30 min. The line is vegetated and the ropes snag easily: several parties recommend making every abseil rather than skipping belays, except the last one from belay 2 to the ground (60 m), and keeping the ropes clipped to your harness as you go down. A walk-off exists but is long and awkward: along the crests of Punta su Mulone and Cuccuru Mannu for about 1 h 30 min to a dirt road, then 30 min more to Baunei, with the car still at Pedra Longa.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Abseiling the route is the normal descent and nearly every belay is chained, so you can turn round anywhere: a party in April 2025 chose the route for that reason and went down after eight pitches. The caveat is the vegetation, which has jammed ropes for several parties.
Safety
Sun and weather
Faces the sea between about 100 and 450 m, sheltered from the mistral. Gulliver.it advises not starting before 13:00 in summer and allowing at least 1 h 30 min for the abseils. Reports run from April to early December, including a cloudy October day and a windy first of December. Some seepage was noted on pitches 9 and 11 in October 2018. Mobile coverage is good.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 14 | 14 | 17 | 20 | 25 | 30 | 34 | 34 | 28 | 24 | 18 | 15 |
| Mean daily low °C | 7 | 7 | 9 | 11 | 15 | 19 | 22 | 22 | 19 | 16 | 12 | 9 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 9 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 8 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 7 | 7 | 10 | 10 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 100 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
15 quickdraws if you do not skip belays (camptocamp says 14). Two 60 m ropes (gulliver.it); camptocamp lists 50 m abseil ropes, and one fast party went down on a single 60 m half rope as far as belay 6. Helmet, head torch, water.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Atlantide.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
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Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.