Noafer Bichl (Glaning, Bolzano) · Bolzano & South Tyrol · Italy
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: medium
A friendly, well-bolted line up the red porphyry below the Gasthof Noafer, just above Bolzano. Three pitches of steep slab and corner lead to a long shoulder, two easy pitches cross it, and two more fine slab pitches finish at the cliff top. Mostly grade 5 with one 5c pitch, the third, which is the best of the route.
The route
The Noafer Bichl is the reddish porphyry wall on the hillside of Glaning, a few hundred metres above the western edge of Bolzano. From the valley it looks uninviting, but the climbing is varied. Dirty Flirty runs up the left part of the wall, not far from Sonntagsspaziergang, where a long shoulder divides the face in two. You start by walking down from the inn at the top, so the climb ends a few minutes from the car. It was equipped with the permission of the family who run the Noafer, and the first ascensionists ask climbers to respect the parking arrangements.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4a | 30 m | 6 bolts | Easy ground in a leftward arc to the steep wall directly above the start. UIAA 3+. |
| P2 | 5b | 35 m | 10 bolts | Leftwards over a marked edge and up a steep corner, then onto slabs that give delightful climbing to the belay. UIAA 5+. |
| P3 | 5c | 30 m | 12 bolts | The best pitch. A corner on the right leads steeply up to a slab with few holds but an easier angle. After a few metres it steepens again and a crack takes you onto the top of the big shoulder, with a view over the whole city. UIAA 6-/6. |
| P4 | 4a | 40 m | 3 bolts | The first of two linking pitches along the shoulder, mostly walking, marked with short pieces of rope. Keep left at the only bolt on the crest. Trees can be slung for extra protection. One move of UIAA 3+. |
| P5 | 5a | 35 m | 2 bolts | Left round the edge and over a short steep slab (one move of UIAA 5-), then along the broader crest again. The way is marked. |
| P6 | 5a+ | 35 m | 10 bolts | Easier climbing diagonally up to the left. UIAA 5/5+. |
| P7 | 5b | 30 m | 10 bolts | A fine steep slab on big holds, more delicate at its top edge. The angle then eases and the route goes right over slabby ground to a large rock ledge and the exit gully, which leads in a few metres to the top. UIAA 6-. |
Getting there
From Bolzano drive towards Jenesien (San Genesio) and follow the signs to Glaning. After about 3.5 km signs lead to the Gasthaus Noafer (775 m). Do not park directly in front of the inn, which needs the spaces for its guests: park a little lower by the pasture or above on the access road. Camping or sleeping in a vehicle at the car park is forbidden. You can also walk up from Bolzano (Moritzing) on path 11B.
About 30 min, downhill. From the Gasthaus Noafer follow path 11B down, staying on the forest road with concreted wheel tracks. At about 590 m, where trees arch over the track, there is usually a cairn on the right. A steep path starts there and leads in a few minutes towards the start of Sonntagsspaziergang at the rock. Just before the rock, follow a clear path left through the wood to a rock edge, where you can see the bolts of Wintergarten, which starts a little lower. Zigzag up to the right of this edge to the start, marked by a cairn and a sling on a tree; the last part of the path is marked.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Parking marked on bergsteigen.com (Gasthof Noafer)
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/dirty-flirty-glaning-bei-bozen
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.50796, 11.30199 (route base) · Parking: 46.51193, 11.30025
Getting down
On foot, about 15 min. The route tops out at the 'Herzl', an old steel heart beside a ruined hut. From the top go right to the exit of Sonntagsspaziergang, then walk gently uphill above the cliff edge towards the Gasthof Noafer. Descend through the wood to the fence, drop to path 11B and follow it a few steps back to the inn.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. The normal descent is on foot from the top, and the source does not describe the belays or any abseil line. Pitches are 30 to 40 m, so a single 50 m rope would not reach from belay to belay on an abseil.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east to south facing between about 620 and 850 m. Bergsteigen.com shows it as climbable all year, but the south-facing rock gets very hot in summer and is only bearable then on a windy day, so the cooler months are best. Allow 2 h 30 min for the climb and about 3 h 15 min in all.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 5 | 7 | 11 | 15 | 19 | 23 | 25 | 25 | 21 | 16 | 10 | 6 |
| Mean daily low °C | −5 | −3 | 2 | 5 | 10 | 13 | 15 | 15 | 11 | 7 | 2 | −3 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 8 | 9 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 13 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 13 | 12 | 9 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 602 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
12 quickdraws and a single 50 m rope. Take a few slings as well, to extend some runners and to protect the easy pitches on bushes and trees. Helmet. No cams or nuts are listed.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Dirty Flirty.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.