Kalymnos – Arhi (far right; White Wine Wall above Arginonta) · Kalymnos & Telendos · Greece
Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
The friendly long route of Kalymnos: seven short pitches that spiral up the face and slabs right of the crest of a buttress above Arginonta bay, never harder than 5c. A good first pitch, an easy second and a scramble lead to three better pitches on the upper wall. Some parties find the rock scrappy in places, so wear a helmet.
Well within the criteria and popular, but a loose belay bolt reported in 2022 has no confirmed repair and the rope length for the abseils is not published.
The route
Regensburg is the easiest long bolted route on the Kalymnos mainland and one of the most climbed: 96 ascents are logged on UKC. It takes the buttress at the far right-hand end of the Arhi sector above Arginonta bay in seven short stages, one of which is a scramble between the lower and upper walls. The hardest pitch is 5c and most of the climbing is 5a to 5b. Opinions on quality vary: most logbook entries call it a pleasant outing with fine views, one found it loose and unremarkable. Choose it for the day out and the position, and decide in advance whether you will abseil or walk off.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5b | – | A good opening pitch. A loose bolt was reported at this belay, which is also the last abseil station, in October 2022. |
| P2 | 3a | 15 m | Short and easy; a 2019 party measured only 15 m to the anchors and a 2024 party did not rope up for it. |
| P3 | walk | – | A scramble of about 5 min to the foot of the upper wall. No source says whether there are bolts on it. |
| P4 | 5a | – | The first of three pitches on the upper wall that logbook entries single out as the best climbing. |
| P5 | 5b | – | More of the same on the face and slabs right of the crest. |
| P6 | 5c | – | The hardest pitch of the route. |
| P7 | 4b | – | An easy finish to the top of the buttress, a good lunch spot. |
Getting there
Base yourself in Masouri or Myrties on the west coast of Kalymnos, reached by ferry from Kos (the nearest airport) to Pothia. Most climbers hire a scooter; buses also run from Pothia through Masouri. Arginonta is the bay north of Masouri on the road to Emporios, about 30 min by bicycle from Masouri; camptocamp lists four buses a day from Pothia to Emporios via Masouri and Arginonta. A 2019 party describes easy parking below the route.
About 10 min. A 2019 logbook entry describes a 10 min walk up a stream bed from the parking; Mountain Project gives 5 min and says the route is easy to find, to the left of the big gully below the Canyon wall. Climb Kalymnos places it at the far right of sector Arhi. No source gives a fuller description, so use the guidebook map to pick the right gully.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from Mountain Project area 121675822 (White Wine Wall)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 37.02000, 26.96657 (crag)
Getting down
Two options. (1) Abseil the route: Rockfax calls this the easier choice and a 2019 party took 45 min. One party in 2022 got their ropes stuck, and it is hard to see parties below you. (2) Walk off rightwards, all the way round past Arginonta. Reports range from just over an hour back to the car (October 2023) to much longer than the guidebook's 1 h 20 min (October 2024, in full sun). It is rough and a 2025 entry hints at some exposed ground.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Abseiling the route is the usual descent, so retreat from any belay should work, and Mountain Project describes good abseil anchors. The caveats are a loose bolt reported at the lowest station in 2022, one report of stuck ropes, and the fact that no source gives the abseil lengths.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
The Arhi sector faces south-west and takes the sun from about 10:00 to 11:30 in September and October (camptocamp); the neighbouring Sea Breeze walls are in shade until noon (Mountain Project). There is no shade once the sun arrives, and the walk-off is fully exposed to it. Spring and autumn are best. A 2019 party took 2 h 35 min to the top.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 13 | 13 | 15 | 17 | 21 | 24 | 26 | 27 | 25 | 21 | 18 | 15 |
| Mean daily low °C | 10 | 10 | 11 | 14 | 17 | 21 | 23 | 24 | 21 | 18 | 15 | 12 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 12 | 11 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 2 | 5 | 8 | 13 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 136 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Quickdraws only. No source states the rope length needed for the abseils or the number of quickdraws, so check the current guidebook before relying on a single rope. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Regensburg.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
The first route on the wall (Odermatt and Keller, 2008), climbing a long, exposed line on sharp, grippy rock right of the huge roof. The lower pitches are easy for the grade. The two 6a cruxes are a short odd corner over a small roof and a traverse high up, and they come with big exposure. Pitches are short, so you can link them with long draws.
6a11 pitches250 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A sustained, varied line on sculpted limestone. It starts with an easy slab and builds to slightly overhanging jugs with huge exposure on the top pitch. Mountain Project and camptocamp grade the crux 6a+ (Rockfax says 6a). With a 70 m rope you can link several pairs of pitches.
6a9 pitches265 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Kalymnos's best-known introduction to multi-pitch: a series of steps and slabs, always with plenty of holds, finishing on top of the Grande Grotta. The upper pitches feel very exposed. Real pitch lengths are shorter than the guidebook says (20–25 m).
5c+6 pitches175 m
Committing
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Thin moves over small bulges, stemming and big jugs on 'cauliflower' limestone. The crux is P6, which ends at a hanging belay. Mountain Project gives the pitches in YDS only (5.8–5.10b), so French pitch grades are not listed; the overall grade is 5.10b (6a+), and some listings give 6b. You can link P3–P4 and P5–P6.
6a+7 pitches152 m
Read the cautions
Around 5c · about 7 pitches
Italy · Bolzano & South Tyrol
A friendly, well-bolted line up the red porphyry below the Gasthof Noafer, just above Bolzano. Three pitches of steep slab and corner lead to a long shoulder, two easy pitches cross it, and two more fine slab pitches finish at the cliff top. Mostly grade 5 with one 5c pitch, the third, which is the best of the route.
5c7 pitches250 m
Austria · Karwendel (Innsbruck Nordkette)
A popular plaisir route up the slabs of the Martinswand plinth: seven pitches, mostly UIAA 4, with only about three harder metres in a short steep corner on pitch 5. Often combined with a route on the wall above.
5c7 pitches225 m
Switzerland · Bernese Oberland
The easiest long route at Hintisberg, seven pitches on the right side of the wall with the Eiger north face directly behind you. Varied limestone that improves with height: the last two pitches, both 5c, are the best and the hardest. Often quieter than Reisefieber next door.
5c7 pitches180 m
Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)
A mountain-style line on dark, weathered granite twenty-five minutes above the spa of Baños de Panticosa. It links ramps, a short overhanging break, slabs and a rounded boulder, with one well-bolted 5c move and the rest 4b to 5b. The rock between the good sections is earthy and lichenous, but the friction is excellent and the bolting generous.
5c7 pitches260 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.