Éperon des Aittes (Cervières) · Briançonnais · France
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A beginner's multipitch on a limestone spur above the Fonts de Cervières road, five minutes from the car. The first four pitches give real climbing at 3c to 4c on slabs and short walls; above that the route is mostly walking and scrambling on earthy, stony ground to the crest. Follow the expansion bolts, not the army glue-ins, for the better rock and less rope drag.
The route
El Boboch climbs the Éperon des Aittes, a limestone spur above the road from Cervières to Les Fonts, east of Briançon. It is an introduction to multipitch climbing: eight short stages, never harder than 4c, with bolts close on the few moves of IV+. Only the first four pitches are continuous rock. The upper part is a ledge walk, one short wall and a scramble up a slope to a tree, on ground that holds earth and loose stones. Many parties climb it in approach shoes or boots.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4c | 30 m | – | Rising diagonal to the left with a few delicate moves. Chained belay. A hanger was reported missing on this pitch in September 2024. |
| P2 | 3c | 40 m | – | Easy climbing up and left. Chained belay. |
| P3 | 3c/4a | 35 m | – | At the start either follow the glue-ins left (3c) or the expansion bolts straight up (4a), then pass left of the pine. Do not follow the glue-ins beyond: there is no belay that way and the rope drag is severe. Chained belay. |
| P4 | 4c | 30 m | – | A pleasant slab. Follow the expansion bolts straight up (4c) or the glue-ins on the right (4a/b). Chained belay. |
| P5 | 4a | 35 m | – | Easier climbing to a belay on three unlinked bolts. |
| P6 | 2 | 50 m | 3 bolts | Two bolts, then walk right (east) for about 40 m along a ledge, following cairns and one more bolt, to a belay on two unlinked bolts that is hard to see from a distance. Exposed walking on gravel. |
| P7 | 4a | 45 m | – | Climb to a pleasant wall with three or four bolts, then easier ground to a shoulder on the crest. |
| P8 | 2 | 50 m | – | Walk and scramble up the slope to the first tree and belay on it. Earthy and stony. |
Getting there
From Briançon drive to Cervières on the Col d'Izoard road, then take the road towards Les Fonts. Pass the turning for the Chalets des Aittes and park in a small lay-by on the right before the old defensive wall (mur des Aittes). Briançon has a railway station; there is no public transport up the Fonts road.
About 5 minutes (Briançon Climbs says 2). Join the path that leaves from the bend and leads west to the foot of the spur. The route starts from a slab engraved by the army; the name 'El Boboch' is painted at the base with a drawing of a snail, and can be seen from the parking place.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp route 1017689 geometry (centre of the uploaded GPS loop, which starts on the road at 44.87836, 6.73837)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 44.88022, 6.73728 (crag)
Getting down
On foot. The recommended way goes 50 m straight up from the last belay to the trees, follows a steep path to the crest, goes down the crest for 20 m to the north and joins the path that descends from Peyre Moutte to the road. The alternative is to cross 10 m onto the north side to a pine with an anchor for a 25 m abseil, which lands in a large, tiring scree slope that you descend back to the start.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
The first four belays are chained and the pitches are 30 to 40 m, so you can abseil from them on a 50 m rope only in short stages; with a single 50 m rope you cannot abseil a 35 or 40 m pitch in one go. Camptocamp adds that it is always possible to escape on foot if there is a problem, because ledges cut the spur.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing at 1850 to 2100 m, and partly shaded: a July 2026 party was in shade for much of the climb. It has been climbed from early April to late September. Afternoon storms are common in summer, so start in the morning. Allow 1.5 to 3 hours on the route.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Briançonnais are not available yet
What to carry
10 quickdraws (Briançon Climbs says 8), a 50 m single rope, slings and screwgate karabiners to link the unchained belays and to sling the final tree. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to El Boboch.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Read the cautions
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.