Kokkinovrachos – Hospital / Red Rock (starts beside We Salute You) · Leonidio & Kyparissi · Greece
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
The harder companion to We Salute You: five pitches, three of them 6c, on steep red and grey rock with good holds and bolts close enough to make the obligatory grade only 6a. The steep red sections of the second and fifth pitches are the highlights.
The route
Federer shares its start area and one belay with We Salute You on the Hospital end of Kokkinovrachos, but it is two grades harder: pitches 2, 4 and 5 are all 6c. The guide site rates it two stars and describes a great, very well protected route with steep sections. With a 6a obligatory grade it is a realistic step up for a party that climbs 6b and is happy to rest on a bolt. It is documented in detail by a single source, the local guide database, so treat the pitch notes as the equippers' own.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | 30 m | A slab and pillar with good holds, then left to a short crack and corner. |
| P2 | 6c | 35 m | Up a steep red wall on good holds, finishing on grey rock. |
| P3 | 6a | 20 m | Diagonally left and up a grey wall. The belay before it is shared with We Salute You, which goes right. |
| P4 | 6c | 35 m | A wall and a short slab, up to the right of a short tufa, then across left and up. |
| P5 | 6c | 35 m | Up the wall, follow a crack, climb a small roof and follow cracks to the top, R5 and the summit logbook. |
Getting there
Base yourself in Leonidio on the east coast of the Peloponnese. Kokkinovrachos is the red wall directly above the town. The Hospital and Red Rock sectors are reached on foot from the town, about 20 min from the Health Centre, or from the parking at the second bend of the Vaskina road via the level track and the water tank.
20 min, as for Aghios Lemmy and We Salute You. From the path that follows the foot of the cliff right of Red Rock, pass Aghios Lemmy (name at the base) and continue about 50 m. Two routes start almost side by side: Federer is the right-hand one.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from OpenStreetMap way 1454163632 (Red Rock, Leonidio)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 37.17254, 22.86256 (crag)
Getting down
The guide site does not describe a descent for Federer. Its belays are used as an abseil line: a 2023 party descending from We Salute You made three abseils with two 60 m ropes partly down Federer. From the top of We Salute You, which finishes nearby, you can also walk up to the dirt road in 15 min. Confirm the options on the printed topo.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Retreat is not described for Federer itself, but its belays are bolted and a 2023 party used part of the route as an abseil line with two 60 m ropes. Treat it as feasible with two ropes rather than guaranteed.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South facing and never in shade; November to March is the season given for the sector. The wall is hot on any sunny day outside midwinter and noisy from the town below.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 11 | 12 | 14 | 18 | 22 | 27 | 30 | 30 | 26 | 21 | 16 | 12 |
| Mean daily low °C | 6 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 15 | 19 | 22 | 23 | 19 | 15 | 11 | 7 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 7 | 8 | 11 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 297 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Quickdraws only. The guide site's listing says '5 QDs', which cannot be right for 35 m pitches and about 80 bolts; its neighbours take 15, so carry at least that. Two 60 m ropes for the abseils. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Federer.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.
5c+7 pitches175 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.
6b8 pitches160 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.
6b7 pitches200 m
Around 6c · about 5 pitches
Spain · Costa Blanca (Cabeçó d'Or)
Delicate, technical wall climbing on small edges up a detached pillar and then the magnificent grey headwall above the hanging garden of the Paredón de los Alcoyanos. Sustained at 6b and above with little rest for the feet, and bolted as a sport route. A step across the void from the top of the pillar is the route's oddity.
6c5 pitches160 m
France · Sainte-Victoire
Five pitches of demanding slab climbing on flawless grey rock at the left side of the Surplomb de la Carrière: two pitches of 6c, one of 6b+ with a finger crack, and a pocketed final wall. Closely bolted where it is hard, with an obligatory grade of 6a+.
6c5 pitches120 m
Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)
The hardest of the La Pancha multipitch routes in the atlas: an easy first pitch, then three steep, demanding pitches of 6c, 6b and 6a+, the middle one 50 m long. Excellent rock apart from the start of pitch 2 and the first half of pitch 3. Not to be underestimated.
6c5 pitches165 m
Read the cautions
Austria · Wilder Kaiser
A short alpine sport route in the Schneekar that steepens as it goes: a scrambling start, fine water runnels on rough rock, then a smooth slab into an overhang on pitch 4. The crux is UIAA 7 to 7+ and can be aided on the bolts.
6c5 pitches180 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
