Multipitch Atlas

Silvia

Sierra de Callosa, Redován (La Pancha) · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa) · Spain

Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium

The hardest of the La Pancha multipitch routes in the atlas: an easy first pitch, then three steep, demanding pitches of 6c, 6b and 6a+, the middle one 50 m long. Excellent rock apart from the start of pitch 2 and the first half of pitch 3. Not to be underestimated.

The Sierra de Callosa rising behind the houses of Redován; the La Pancha climbing sector is on this side of the range, a short walk above the villagePhoto: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

The Sierra de Callosa rising behind the houses of Redován; the La Pancha climbing sector is on this side of the range, a short walk above the villagePhoto: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6c
Pitches
5
Length
165 m
Approach
15 min
Aspect
SW
South-west-facing
Rope
2×50 m
Read before you go

Reported as faultlessly bolted, but it rests on a single 2025 source, has some poor rock on two pitches and needs 6a+ between the bolts.

The route

Overview

Silvia takes a line about 50 m up and left from the path's arrival under La Pancha, the limestone dome above Redován. After a short grade 5 pitch to a ledge it climbs a corner and the walls above in three sustained pitches, then finishes with a long 5+. The climbing is steep and exacting, and although the bolting is described as faultless you cannot aid your way past everything: about 6a+ is obligatory. It is documented by a single camptocamp page and outing from December 2025, so treat the details as one party's account.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P1520 mTo a belay at the end of the ledge on the right, below the start of the corner.
P26c30 mSteep and demanding in places. A few blocks to test at the start.
P36b50 mLong and sustained; the rock at the start, and for the first half, needs a careful touch. 18 quickdraws.
P46a+30 mA change of style, and not a gift at the grade.
P55+40 mAn easier pitch to the top.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Redován is a village in the Vega Baja, between Orihuela and Callosa de Segura. Drive to the sports centre (polideportivo) in the upper part of the village and use its car park.

On foot · about 15 min

15 to 20 minutes. From the sports centre take the marked path towards La Pancha. Before reaching the foot of the dome go left and climb leftwards for about 50 m. An engraved plaque marks the start, to the left of a line of blue hangers.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

38.12040, -0.90393

Point from camptocamp waypoint 470941 (Redován)

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Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

By abseil. The first station is 20 m to the right of the top, marked by an engraved arrow: abseil 25 m. A second abseil of 50 m reaches belay 3 (the page also lists 45 m to belay 2 as an alternative), and a last one of 45 m reaches the ground.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

The descent is by abseil and passes belay 3 and the ground, so retreat from the lower belays should be feasible with two ropes. The source does not describe the hardware at each belay.

Retreat from
Belays 2 and 3 are named in the abseil description; belay 1 is 20 m up on a ledge.
Point of no return
Not stated.
Carry
Two 50 m ropes and a few maillons in case a belay is not rigged.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredThe abseil lengths are stated on camptocamp; that each belay is rigged for retreat is inferred.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • Doubtful rock at the start of pitch 2 and on the first half of pitch 3.
  • About 6a+ is obligatory between bolts on the three hard pitches.
  • The abseils are 45 to 50 m: knot the ends and do not attempt them on a single rope.
  • Single-source route: grades, lengths and the descent come from one camptocamp contributor.
  • Seasonal ban next door: a sign at the crag prohibits climbing in the Botri and Los Cortaos sectors from 1 January to 30 June for nesting Bonelli's eagles (Decree 179/2004). La Pancha is outside the area drawn on the sign, but check the notice before you climb.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-west facing at low altitude; in December the sun arrives at about midday. A cool-season cliff.

Usual season · Jan to Apr, Nov to Dec

Sun on the wall · SW-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C161820232631333329252017
Mean daily low °C56811141821211814106
Rain days 1 mm or more445542125554

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 27 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

18 quickdraws for pitch 3; 13 are enough for the others. Two 50 m ropes for the abseils. Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
18
Rope
2×50 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Silvia.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Todos los Santos (6a+) and X Capítulos (6b) nearby are gentler introductions to the cliff.
  • Names are engraved or painted at the foot of the routes on La Pancha.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Length: 165 m in the camptocamp header; the pitch lengths add up to 170 m.
  • The abseil table lists both '50 m to belay 3' and '45 m to belay 2' as the second abseil; which you use will depend on your ropes.

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.