Grotte du Péril Jaune sector (west side of the Grande Face) · Baou de Saint-Jeannet · France
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A modern bolted line up the left side of the Baou, starting beside the Péril Jaune cave: six varied pitches on unpolished rock, with a steep 6c wall and a fine crack and corner finishing with one hard move (7a on the topo, 6c or 6c+ to most parties). Two walking transitions through scrub break the climbing, so it has less exposure than the routes on the main face.
The route
Friend Zone climbs the left-hand end of the Baou, from the Péril Jaune cave to the summit plateau. It was opened ground-up on nuts and cams in 2014, found to be poor value in that style, and then cleaned and bolted throughout by one of the first ascensionists the following spring. The result is a homogeneous sport route in the 6a to 6c range with one harder move at the top of pitch 5. The rock is new and rough, without the polish of the Baou's older classics, but it still sheds the odd flake and the ledges hold gravel. The obligatory grade is about 6b+.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | 35 m | 8 bolts | A pleasant slab on a pillar, then left into steeper, more awkward climbing (5c+) and a boulder move of 6a to finish. Belay on the left-hand tree on a small terrace (two linked slings). Bolts continue straight up the spur: do not follow them. A 2025 party thinks the pitch is shorter than stated. |
| P2 | 6b+ | 20 m | 7 bolts | Leave leftwards up a compact grey wall beside a slanting crack, with two awkward moves in a row at the start, then traverse left and climb a sustained steep wall on small edges. The difficulties are concentrated at the first three bolts. The crack can be wet and earthy. Belay on a comfortable step, two bolts linked with cord. |
| P3 | 5c | 40 m | 7 bolts | A transitional slab. Where two bolt lines diverge, take the left one ('Les 3 salopards' goes right) up a steepening wall to trees. Go through the trees to a belay on two linked slings in a small orange niche. Parties rate it 5 to 5c and find it vegetated. |
| P4 | 6c | 30 m | 9 bolts | Traverse left through an overhanging section, then climb the slab on the left of a steepening corner, with the crux near the top: a long reach between good holds. One sudden gap between bolts on easy ground higher up. Take care mounting the ledge, which is covered in loose gravel, directly above the belayer. Belay on two linked bolts, awkward, among trees. Then scramble up between blocks close to the ridge to the start of pitch 5. |
| P5 | 7a | 30 m | 13 bolts | A steep first wall (6b), then a superb crack rising rightwards to the final corner, which overhangs slightly and is passed with one hard bridging move on the last two bolts. Most parties give the move 6c or 6c+, and it can be aided. Some stacked blocks in the crack move: climb gently. Belay at the top of the corner on two linked bolts. Then walk about 80 m across the sheep enclosure to a white and yellow wall with a tree halfway up. |
| P6 | 6a | 40 m | 10 bolts | Follow bolts and a large peg up a corner to a big holm oak, cross it, pass an intermediate belay and climb through a kind of cave under large blocks to exit on the summit. Belay up and right on two linked bolts, one of which was reported as needing replacement. The pitch is close to 50 m by the Spanish-language text and can be split at the tree or in the cave. |
Getting there
Saint-Jeannet is reached via Carros and Gattières from the north, La Gaude from the south-east, or Vence. Park in one of the car parks at the entrance to the village (about 410 m): driving through the village is reserved for residents and there is no parking inside it. Bus line 510 of the Alpes-Maritimes network is listed on camptocamp as serving the village.
About 20 min (parties report 30 min to 1 h including gearing up). Cross the village to the chapel of Notre-Dame-des-Champs (also called Notre-Dame des Baous) and take the concrete path behind it. After a few minutes a short rock step on the left leads onto a path with mauve paint marks; follow it for about ten minutes, passing the gully that leads up to the right-hand part of the face. A steep cairned track on the right then climbs to the foot of the Grotte du Péril Jaune. Just before the fixed rope that leads up into the cave, turn left: the start is a low-angled slab on a grassy pillar a few metres from the path, with bolts visible and 'FZ' written at the foot.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Saint-Jeannet village (camptocamp waypoint 122004); use the car park at the village entrance
Point from camptocamp waypoint 103734 (Grotte du Péril Jaune, the cave the route starts beside)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 43.75316, 7.13471 (crag) · Parking: 43.75001, 7.14479
Getting down
On foot, about 45 to 50 min. Walk up to the summit of the Baou and take the normal hiking path (yellow marks, then the GR) back down to the village. A 2022 party came down through the ressauts on the south-east side instead.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
The opener's topo states that every belay is in place and that descent down the route is possible, and the Spanish-language camptocamp text says many belays are equipped for abseiling. No party reports having done it. Belays on trees and on bolts joined with cord mean you should expect to leave slings or maillons. The two walking transitions (after pitch 4 and after pitch 5) put you on vegetated ledges near the ridge, but no source describes an escape on foot from them.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-west and west facing between about 470 and 800 m. This side stays in the shade later than the main face: a late-June party climbed in shade except for part of pitch 4, and an October party enjoyed the crux pitch in the evening sun. The crack on pitch 2 seeps after rain. It can be windy at the belays in winter.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Baou de Saint-Jeannet are not available yet
What to carry
14 quickdraws and a single 50 m rope (a 2025 party used 55 m). Two or three long slings for the tree belays; the opener's topo suggests two 60 to 90 cm slings. No cams or nuts needed. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Friend Zone.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
One of the essential long routes of the Baou: seven pitches that hardly drop below the sixth grade, each with a different problem, from thin slab to a steep bulge and a superb layback corner at 6c. The single 7a section on pitch 2 is closely bolted and can be aided. Expect a few loose blocks and a scrappy link pitch across the Vernet ledge.
7a7 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
One of the best modern lines on the main face: nine pitches up a pillar left of the central depression, on overhanging stratified walls, thin slabs, a striking arête and a big flake. Sustained at 6a+ to 6c with one 7a pitch that parties find closer to 6c+, and 6b obligatory. The bolting lets you climb relaxed, but there are jammed blocks to treat gently.
7a9 pitches230 m
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
A short, sustained and very well bolted line on the pillar left of the Arête S, parallel to La Tonton Walker. Thin walls, a steep stratified pitch on big holds and one blank slab move of 7a that most people pull through. The friendliest introduction to the harder routes of the Baou, and easy to extend to the summit by one of the routes above the Vire Vernet.
7a5 pitches100 m
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
The most accessible bolted multipitch on the Baou: four homogeneous pitches of French 5+ with one move of 6a, up a crack, corners and sculpted stratified walls, with an airy traverse on pitch 3. Short enough for half a day. Local grades are stiff, the first pitch is polished and the easy sections are run-out.
6a4 pitches120 m
Read the cautions
Around 7a · about 6 pitches
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
The route that opened Kokkinovrachos to sport multi-pitch climbing: six long pitches up the centre-right of the red wall, sustained at 6b+ to 6c with one technical 7a crux that can be aided on two bolts. Rated three stars locally and more sustained than Aramis.
7a6 pitches180 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Steep, fingery wall climbing that starts with your feet almost in the stream at the gorge entrance. The 7a second pitch is hard for only 2 to 3 metres and can be swapped for a 6b pitch on the neighbouring route, after which three pitches of 6b+ to 6c+ on pocketed and edgy rock lead to the top. Abseil descent.
7a6 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
France · Vanoise (Grand Bec)
A short, wild, modern route on the grey limestone of the Petite Aiguille de l'Arcelin, in two halves: thin, technical slab low down, including a sustained 6b+ with obligatory moves, then steep walls with a very sustained 7a pitch of two bouldery cruxes. Seldom climbed for its quality.
7a6 pitches190 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Sardinia
Two pitches of bridging up a 60 m corner hung with tufas and stalactites (6c+, 6c), then grey water-drop walls and a short roof at 7a that goes in three moves of aid. Seven pitches of varied climbing on perfect, unpolished rock.
7a7 pitches220 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.