Kokkinovrachos (main wall, left of Mira) · Leonidio & Kyparissi · Greece
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: medium
The route that opened Kokkinovrachos to sport multi-pitch climbing: six long pitches up the centre-right of the red wall, sustained at 6b+ to 6c with one technical 7a crux that can be aided on two bolts. Rated three stars locally and more sustained than Aramis.
The route
Ramisi Rock dates from the Remy brothers' first visit in 2013 and was the first fully bolted line to the top of the big face; Mira, Aramis, Ura Ka and the rest followed. It gives 180 m in six pitches, three of them 40 m long, and stays at 6b+ to 6c apart from the crux on pitch 2. That crux is 7a free, or 6c with two points of aid, which is what brings the route inside the atlas range. It sits at the hard end of that range: you need to be comfortable on long 6c pitches. It is described in detail by one source only.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b | 40 m | Up and slightly left on a black and grey wall with a lot of holds to an anchor on a ledge. |
| P2 | 7a | 35 m | A rightward traverse, a technical crux, then straight up. Goes at 6c with two points of aid on the bolts. |
| P3 | 6c | 30 m | Starts hard, then zigzags up to a short bulge. |
| P4 | 6b+ | 40 m | A gorgeous vertical wall on good holds. |
| P5 | 6c | 25 m | A rightward traverse over the pillar, then a slab. |
| P6 | 6c | 40 m | A small fingery corner leads to slab climbing and the top. Anchor on the ridge. |
Getting there
Base yourself in Leonidio on the east coast of the Peloponnese. Kokkinovrachos is the red wall directly above the town.
Walk from the town following the signs for Kokkinovrachos, or use the Douvari parking on the Vaskina road and traverse right along the foot of the wall. The path reaches the right-hand part of the cliff at the start of Aramis, whose name is painted in red; parties report 20 to 40 min from the village. Mira starts about 20 m right of that point and is described as the first equipped route right of Ramisi Rock, so Ramisi Rock is close by on the same section of wall. No source describes how its start is marked; use the guidebook topo.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from OpenStreetMap node 13450285322 (Ramisi rock, Kokkinovrachos)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 37.17236, 22.85832 (crag)
Getting down
The online listing gives no descent for Ramisi Rock; the guidebook covers return options for the wall on a dedicated page. On the neighbouring routes you either abseil the line with two ropes of at least 50 m, or walk right along the top to a line of two abseils in the gully to the east, the second of which is 40 m, and then a path. A third option is the long walk out to the Vaskina road.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Nothing is published about retreating from Ramisi Rock. The rope the guide specifies (one 100 m or two 50 m) suggests the belays can be abseiled, but two pitches traverse and no party has reported doing it.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South facing at about 420 m: a winter-sun wall, best from November to March. Neighbouring routes are reported too hot from late morning even in November on still days.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 11 | 12 | 14 | 18 | 22 | 27 | 30 | 30 | 26 | 21 | 16 | 12 |
| Mean daily low °C | 6 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 15 | 19 | 22 | 23 | 19 | 15 | 11 | 7 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 7 | 8 | 11 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 297 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
15 quickdraws, and a single 100 m rope or two 50 m ropes (guide site). Helmets.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Ramisi Rock.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.
5c+7 pitches175 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.
6b8 pitches160 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.
6b7 pitches200 m
Around 7a · about 6 pitches
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Steep, fingery wall climbing that starts with your feet almost in the stream at the gorge entrance. The 7a second pitch is hard for only 2 to 3 metres and can be swapped for a 6b pitch on the neighbouring route, after which three pitches of 6b+ to 6c+ on pocketed and edgy rock lead to the top. Abseil descent.
7a6 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
A modern bolted line up the left side of the Baou, starting beside the Péril Jaune cave: six varied pitches on unpolished rock, with a steep 6c wall and a fine crack and corner finishing with one hard move (7a on the topo, 6c or 6c+ to most parties). Two walking transitions through scrub break the climbing, so it has less exposure than the routes on the main face.
7a6 pitches230 m
France · Vanoise (Grand Bec)
A short, wild, modern route on the grey limestone of the Petite Aiguille de l'Arcelin, in two halves: thin, technical slab low down, including a sustained 6b+ with obligatory moves, then steep walls with a very sustained 7a pitch of two bouldery cruxes. Seldom climbed for its quality.
7a6 pitches190 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Sardinia
Two pitches of bridging up a 60 m corner hung with tufas and stalactites (6c+, 6c), then grey water-drop walls and a short roof at 7a that goes in three moves of aid. Seven pitches of varied climbing on perfect, unpolished rock.
7a7 pitches220 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
