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Croatia · Paklenica
Karamara Sweet Temptations
A five-minute approach from the gorge café. There is a polished boulder-problem start, then wandering grooves and an airy traverse on the 6a+ third pitch.
6a+4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Jenjavi
Anića kuk – north-west face · Paklenica · Croatia
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
One of the best-protected long routes on Anića kuk. The hard climbing is all in the first three pitches, 7a, 7a+ and 6c+, which are bolted closely enough to pull through; the guidebook gives 5c/A1 for the aided grade. Above, nine pitches of 5a to 6b wander up the big north-west face on flakes, grooves, a corner and a chimney to finish near the summit.
- Hardest pitch
- 6c+
- Pitches
- 12
- Length
- 385 m
- Approach
- 45 min
- Aspect
- NW
- North-west-facing
- Rope
- 2×60 m
- (bergsteigen.com); the descent is on foot
The route
Overview
Jenjavi climbs the full height of the north-west face of Anića kuk, starting left of Velebitaški and Albatros. Free, it is a 7a+ route, harder than the atlas range. It is included because every source says the two hardest pitches go easily on the bolts: camptocamp gives 5c obligatory, the guidebook 5c/A1, and bergsteigen.com says the first three pitches can be aided very well. Above them the route is sustained at 6a with one 6b corner. It is known as the well-bolted way up the wall, a place to relax mentally by Paklenica standards, though the easy pitches near the top are still run-out and the line crosses several other routes.
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
7a (A0)7a+ (A0)6c+6a5c36b6a+6a6a5a5a
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 7a (A0) | Start left of a small overhang. Bouldery climbing on small holds and small footholds, very closely bolted, and it goes without trouble on the bolts. |
| P2 | 7a+ (A0) | The same style and the free crux: bouldery, helped by a long reach, very closely bolted and easily aided. |
| P3 | 6c+ | A superb, long crack pitch with some hand jamming. bergsteigen.com says this pitch too can be aided. |
| P4 | 6a | A fine, airy traverse left on flakes. |
| P5 | 5c | Straightforward, but several routes cross here: take care to stay on the right line. |
| P6 | 3 | A traverse left in big water grooves. Run-out, and the bolts are hard to spot: a 2024 leader stopped at a belay 15 m below the right one. |
| P7 | 6b | An athletic corner on good, sharp holds (a 2024 party says 6b+) to an intermediate belay on the ledge to the left, which the new topo shows. |
| P8 | 6a+ | The continuation above the ledge. Pitches 7 and 8 can be run together, but it is long and the rope drags. |
| P9 | 6a | A zigzag through water grooves; described as short by camptocamp and 'not so short' by a 2024 party. |
| P10 | 6a | A chimney that a 2024 party found awkward and harder than the 6b. Camptocamp warns of an owl. |
| P11 | 5a | A short pitch. Run-out but easy. |
| P12 | 5a | A long pitch on magnificent rock to the top. Run-out but easy. |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
Base yourself in Starigrad-Paklenica, on the coast road between Rijeka and Zadar. From Zagreb it is about 235 km by the A1 to the Maslenica exit, then 15 km along the coast. A signed road leaves the eastern end of the village for the national park. Buy a ticket at the entrance (climbers can buy 3-day and 5-day tickets), then drive on to the last car park at the end of the road.
On foot · about 45 min
From the last car park follow the main path up the gorge to the signed turn-off for Anića kuk on the right, and take it up to the fork: right for the Stup, left for the Trapez, Klin, north-west and north faces. Go left along the foot of the wall. The start is left of Velebitaški, 20 to 30 m left of the start of Albatros (recognisable by a big tree at its first belay), on top of a small buttress of jumbled blocks. A small triangular tag gives the route name. A 2024 party took 35 to 40 min; bergsteigen.com allows 45 min. The start is at about 355 m.
Map of the walk-in
- Route base
- Parking
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
44.30372, 15.47109
Last car park in the Velika Paklenica gorge (bergsteigen.com map marker 'Ende der Straße')
Point from bergsteigen.com start marker for Jenjavi (flagged approximate), about 170 m from camptocamp waypoint 43174
For your phone or watch
Download GPX
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 44.30767, 15.48049 (route base) · Parking: 44.30372, 15.47109
Getting down
Descent
From the last belay carry on up; you meet the marked normal path almost at once, close to the summit. Follow the red dots down into the gorge and back to the car park, about 1 hour. The path is the same one used for the approach in its lower part.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented: every source describes climbing to the top and walking down. All belays are bolted, and a 2025 party did turn back about half-way, but how they got down is not recorded. The traverses on pitches 4 and 6 would complicate abseiling from above them.
- Retreat from
- Not known. The first three pitches run directly up from the start, which would favour abseiling from the first three belays (inferred).
- Point of no return
- Not documented. After the leftward traverses of pitches 4 and 6 you are no longer above the start, so from there the top is probably the simpler way out (inferred).
- Carry
- The two 60 m ropes bergsteigen.com lists, plus maillons to leave, since abseil rings are not confirmed.
- Basis
- Inferred from the route factsSources state bolted belays and a walk-off only; the retreat advice is inferred from the pitch descriptions.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Hazards
- The easy pitches are the run-out ones: pitch 6 (grade 3) and the two 5a pitches at the top have long gaps between bolts.
- Route finding: the line crosses many others, especially around pitch 5, and there is an intermediate belay on pitch 7 that older topos do not show. Parties in 2024 and 2025 both lost time here.
- Rope drag if you link pitches 7 and 8 or the last two.
- It is a long day: a 2024 party who started at 10:45 topped out at 17:45, climbing the last two pitches at nightfall in early November.
- The holds in the corner on pitch 7 are sharp.
Sun and weather
Conditions
North-west facing, start at about 355 m and top near 712 m. The wall is in shade for most of the day: a party in early November 2024 wanted a down jacket at the belays, while an August 2016 party reported hot weather with a little wind. bergsteigen.com marks April to June, September and October. Reported times on the route are 4 to 7 hours.
Usual season · Apr to Jun, Sep to Oct
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall · NW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
- January: not yet worked out
- February: not yet worked out
- March: not yet worked out
- April (usual season): not yet worked out
- May (usual season): not yet worked out
- June (usual season): not yet worked out
- July: not yet worked out
- August: not yet worked out
- September (usual season): not yet worked out
- October (usual season): not yet worked out
- November: not yet worked out
- December: not yet worked out
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 7 | 8 | 12 | 16 | 21 | 25 | 28 | 28 | 23 | 18 | 13 | 8 |
| Mean daily low °C | 0 | 0 | 3 | 7 | 12 | 16 | 18 | 18 | 14 | 10 | 6 | 2 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 9 | 11 | 13 | 12 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 262 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Gear
18 quickdraws and slings (bergsteigen.com). No cams or nuts are listed, and camptocamp's gear note says nothing is needed. bergsteigen.com gives two 60 m ropes. Helmet. A 2025 party ran short of quickdraws on the long pitches.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- 18
- Rope
- 2×60 m (bergsteigen.com); the descent is on foot
- Helmet
- One each
- Maillons or spare karabiners
- To leave behind if you retreat
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Jenjavi.
Worth knowing
Tips
- If you are not climbing 7a, pull on the bolts on the first two pitches; the long 6c+ crack that follows is the next hardest pitch.
- Take all 18 quickdraws; the hard pitches eat them.
- Start early in spring and autumn, when the days are short.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- Grade recorded here: the atlas caps the range at 7a, so the two hardest pitches are listed as A0 and the headline grade is that of pitch 3, the hardest pitch not universally described as an aid pitch. Free, the route is 7a+.
- Obligatory grade: 5c on camptocamp and in the paper guide; UIAA 7- (about 6a+/6b) on bergsteigen.com.
- Pitch count: camptocamp lists 11 pitches with pitch 7 as a double (6b, 6a+); plezanje.net lists 12. Twelve are used here.
- Pitch 7: 6b on camptocamp and plezanje.net, 6b+ according to a 2024 party.
- Length: 385 m on bergsteigen.com, 350 m on camptocamp and plezanje.net.
- Protection on easy ground: bergsteigen.com says the easier pitches are very well bolted too; a 2024 party found pitches 6, 11 and 12 run-out.
- The bergsteigen.com description dates from 2010; the bolting is confirmed by 2016, 2024 and 2025 reports.
Provenance
Sources
- bergsteigen.com – Jenjavi, Anića kukUsed for: protection, A0 note, gear, approach, descent, season, length, start marker
- Camptocamp – Anića kuk: JenjaviUsed for: pitch grades and descriptions, A0 notes, obligatory grade, history
- Camptocamp – trip reports 2016 and 2024 (outings 908589, 1704220)Used for: start location, pitch-by-pitch notes, run-out easy pitches, timings, temperature
- thetopo.com – Anića kuk: Jenjavi (ascent log, September 2025)Used for: 'Sport' classification, bolting density, route finding, quickdraws
- plezanje.net – PaklenicaUsed for: independent 12-pitch grade list and length
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.