The best easy multipitch at the Barre de la Lèche: eight pitches of slabs and short walls on rough mountain gneiss above Le Boréon, very well bolted. A good first route for newcomers to multipitch climbing, with a stiffer pair of 5c pitches low down.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Climbing modeBig type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Overview
La Dalle à Delphin starts at the lowest point of the Barre de la Lèche and climbs the whole band in eight short pitches. The hardest climbing comes early: a technical pitch 2 and a pitch 3 that finishes through an overhanging flake (layback) with an awkward foot move. Above that the route eases into a long slab (pitch 4), a grassy ledge and three more easy, enjoyable pitches. The gneiss is excellent and the glue-in bolts are close together.
Worth knowing
Allow 2 to 3 hours on the route.
A good route for a first multipitch, as recommended by several parties.
Raspberries grow along the approach path in late summer.
Pitch by pitch
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in La Verticalité en Vésubie-Valdeblore.
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Pitches of La Dalle à Delphin
Pitch
Grade
Length
Bolts
Notes
P1
3b
15 m
–
Easy steps to a ledge with three chained belays; take the middle one. Optional, as it is very short.
P2
5cVI5.9
–
–
Straight up to a chained belay left of a fallen tree. Technical; some parties call it 6a.
P3
5cVI5.9
–
–
Up the slab, then out through the big overhanging flake in a layback, with a tricky foot move. Of the two belays above, take the right one (the left belongs to La Petite Toju).
P4
5aV+5.7
40 m
13 bolts
A beautiful run of slabs.
P5
2
–
–
Easy grassy steps rightwards to the big ledge; bolts are present but sometimes hard to spot. Take the right-hand belay (unlinked); the left one is Tomawak's.
P6
5aV+5.7
–
–
Slab, exiting right of a pointed gendarme to the belay.
P7
5bVI-5.8
–
–
Climb the crack above the belay, then easier ground. Links well with the last pitch.
P8
4aIV5.4
–
–
An easy final slab to the belay on top of a small block.
Approach
To the parking
From Nice take the M6202 and M2565 up the Vésubie to Saint-Martin-Vésubie (about 1 h 15), then the road to Le Boréon. At Le Boréon turn left onto the Col de Salèse road and park where it is closed to traffic at the first hairpin (about 1670 m, roughly 1 km after Le Boréon; in winter it may be barred lower). Signpost 399 marks the start of the track to the crag.
On foot · about 20 min
About 20 min. Follow the forest track that zigzags below the Barre de la Lèche; after the last hairpin under the face, a path marked by a cairn leads to the foot. The route starts in the middle of the face at the lowest point of the rock, right of three bushes (number 8 or 11 painted at the base, faded).
Map of the walk-in
Crag
PParking
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Abseil the route. With 50 m ropes alpes-sud.net uses R8, R7 to R5, then down-climbs pitch 4 (easy, but watch for loose stones on the ledges), then R4 and R3 to the ground. Parties who tried the walk-off shown in the FFME topo in 2023 and 2026 found it dangerous and hard to follow and strongly advise abseiling instead.
Bailing off the route
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal descent and the belays are chained, so you can retreat from any stance. Below the central ledge you abseil from R4 and R3 to the ground.
Retreat from
Any belay.
Point of no return
None.
Carry
Two 50 m ropes.
Basis
Stated in the sourcesAbseil descent and sequence given by alpes-sud.net and camptocamp.
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
Hazards
Stonefall from the grassy ledges, especially during the abseils and on pitch 5.
The walk-off from the top is poorly marked and exposed; abseil instead.
Several routes cross on the face: keep to the right belays at the first ledge and the central ledge.
Gear
12 quickdraws and belay kit. Two 50 m ropes for the abseils. Helmet.
Checklist
Quickdraws
12
Rope
2×50 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
For abseiling
Conditions
South facing at about 1800 m, in the sun from the morning. Climbable from about June to October; in early summer snow may linger in the approach and the road may be closed after storms. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1320 m
Loading the forecast.
Weather forecast for Vésubie (Le Boréon) at 1320 m, today and the next 6 days
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Low °C
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Rain mm
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Strongest gusts km/h
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Model forecast for 1320 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 8 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
Approach
20 min
Climbing
4 h 45 min to 7 h 30 min20% quicker to 25% slower.
Total on the way up
5 h 5 min to 7 h 50 min
Sunrise
–
Sunset
–
Start walking by
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Descent
Not included: add time for the way down.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Jan
–January: not yet worked out
Feb
–February: not yet worked out
Mar
–March: not yet worked out
Apr
–April: not yet worked out
May
–May: not yet worked out
Jun ●
–June (usual season): not yet worked out
Jul ●
–July (usual season): not yet worked out
Aug ●
–August (usual season): not yet worked out
Sep ●
–September (usual season): not yet worked out
Oct ●
–October (usual season): not yet worked out
Nov
–November: not yet worked out
Dec
–December: not yet worked out
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Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
Monthly climate averages for Vésubie (Le Boréon), 1991-2020
Measure
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun ● (usual season)
Jul ● (usual season)
Aug ● (usual season)
Sep ● (usual season)
Oct ● (usual season)
Nov
Dec
Mean daily high °C
1
1
4
7
11
16
18
18
14
10
5
1
Mean daily low °C
−7
−7
−5
−2
3
7
10
10
6
3
−3
−6
Rain days 1 mm or more
8
7
9
13
18
18
15
13
11
11
11
9
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1895 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Rebolted in 2015 by the Compagnie des guides du Mercantour with closely spaced glue-in bolts; the belays are chained apart from one on the grassy ledge. Recent parties call the protection excellent and alpes-sud.net says no extra gear is needed.
History
Opened by Jean Grinda, Bernard Duterte, Pierre Fiorucci, Delphin Richier and Charlie Pistone. Rebolted in 2015 by the Compagnie des guides du Mercantour.
Guidebook
'La Verticalité en Vésubie-Valdeblore' (FFME Alpes-Maritimes, 2017); 'L'escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes' V4 (Alticoop). Buy from kletterfuehrer.net.
Where sources disagree
Pitch 1: camptocamp grades it 3, alpes-sud.net 3b, 15 m.
Starting number: one 2021 party found the number 11 painted at the start; camptocamp mentions a faded number 8.
The harder companion to La Dalle à Delphin: two steep, athletic 6b pitches low down, a black wall and a bouldery overhang, then easy ground and two fine short pitches to the top of the Barre de la Lèche.
An even 5c on the big wall directly behind the Ailefroide campsite: a steep corner to start, slabs in the middle and a fine layback near the top. It takes the left side of the face that holds the famous Fissure, and is a little quieter than the other classics of the grade.
A popular first multipitch on the south-east face of the Quiquillon: eight short pitches of steep, juggy 5a to 5c limestone, very closely bolted, finishing on the summit ridge. The two 5c pitches at the top are the hardest and polished in places, but can be aided on the bolts. Expect company.
A friendly, well-bolted line up the red porphyry below the Gasthof Noafer, just above Bolzano. Three pitches of steep slab and corner lead to a long shoulder, two easy pitches cross it, and two more fine slab pitches finish at the cliff top. Mostly grade 5 with one 5c pitch, the third, which is the best of the route.
The friendly long route of Kalymnos: seven short pitches that spiral up the face and slabs right of the crest of a buttress above Arginonta bay, never harder than 5c. A good first pitch, an easy second and a scramble lead to three better pitches on the upper wall. Some parties find the rock scrappy in places, so wear a helmet.
5cVI5.95cVI5.97 pitches150 mTop▲ ~300 m★★★
Read the cautions
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.