Roca dels Arcs · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) · Spain
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
Six steep, physical pitches on the right-hand side of the Roca dels Arcs, with a hard pull or two on every one: bouldery starts, big overhangs on jugs and little difference in effort between the 6a and the 6b pitches. Sport-bolted, which is unusual on this wall. Grades feel tight.
The route
The Roca dels Arcs is the great south-facing wall above Vilanova de Meià, known for semi-equipped routes where a rack is normal. Tierra de Nadie, in the Lleida sector on the right, is one of the exceptions: it is bolted from bottom to top and since 2021 that includes the first pitch. Camptocamp grades it TD+, 6b+ with 6a obligatory and A0 possible. The climbing is steep and sustained on the wall's characteristic horizontal breaks, and strong parties still report fighting on pitches 3 and 5. Arms matter more than footwork.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5+ | Steep climbing on small edges that builds gradually to a belay on a good ledge. Graded IV+ on camptocamp, V on the 1988 topo and V+ by a 2025 party. Re-bolted in 2021. |
| P2 | 6a+ | Slightly left off the belay into a hard, obligatory boulder move that feels a little bold, then a stiff overhang. |
| P3 | 6b+ | A big move to start, which can be aided, then very athletic climbing on jugs through leaning rock with a rising line to the right. It eases once past the grey section. It never lets up; one 2025 climber found it harder than some 6c pitches. |
| P4 | 6a | A reachy but well-protected start, a short traverse left under the roof, then back right. Not a rest. |
| P5 | 6b | Big juggy overhangs and a bouldery start that can be aided, then a fine run of strata. Fairly well bolted, with a final boulder move that stopped one party. |
| P6 | 5+ | It eases at last, though still physical for the grade, with a good move in the middle. |
Getting there
From Vilanova de Meià take the L-913 north towards Terradets. The climbing is in the gorge about 5 km above the village. From Tremp, drive south to the Terradets dam, cross it towards Llimiana and follow the LV-9121 and then the L-913 over the pass; the first car park is about 20 km from the dam. Park at the lay-bys in the gorge below the wall.
About 20 minutes by camptocamp's figure; a 2025 party took 40. Take the usual path that runs along the foot of the whole face. About two thirds of the way along, a cairn marks a fork to the right; follow it up to the Lleida sector. The route is the first one left of the corner of Montse Pueyo.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Lay-by car parks on the L-913 in the gorge, about 5.1 km north of Vilanova de Meià (camptocamp access waypoint 551854: a large one on the right in a bend, with two smaller ones 300 m and 700 m further on)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 41409 (Roca dels Arcs)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.02356, 1.02974 (crag) · Parking: 42.02250, 1.03485
Getting down
On foot: from the top a good path goes left and leads back to the foot of the routes; a 2025 party took 50 minutes by the gully on the left at the top of the cliff. Another party went down to the right, which is steep and not advised in wet conditions. Camptocamp also says the route can be abseiled.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Camptocamp lists abseiling the route as one of the two descents, so the belays should be usable, but gives no lengths or anchor details and recent parties all walked off. The route overhangs in places, which complicates abseils.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing at about 1000 m. Outings are logged in February and March, April and October and November. Cool, dry days make the polished holds easier to use.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws including some long ones. Rope length is not stated; take two ropes if you want the option of abseiling. No cams or nuts needed.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Tierra de Nadie.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.
6b+4 pitches160 m
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
The easy classic of Vilanova de Meià, on the small wall opposite the Roca dels Arcs: four short pitches on the horizontal strata and rounded knobs typical of the area. Popular and now very polished, above all on the first pitch, where the old grade of IV+ feels stiff.
5c4 pitches100 m
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
The best of the easier lines on the Paret de Zaratustra: steep climbing on big horizontal holds, a very vertical wall on the long second pitch and an overhanging 6a finish. Less polished than Txubascos Baskos next door, but with longer gaps between some bolts.
6a4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four varied pitches under and around the big roofs of the Roca Alta, the quieter wall above and west of the Roca dels Arcs. A start out of a tree, an overhang on big holds, a fine steep wall and a bouldery 6b+ finish, all of which can be eased by pulling on the close bolts.
6b+4 pitches150 m
Around 6b+ · about 6 pitches
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
The harder companion to La Lumaca di Vetro on the second spur. Delicate slabs with spaced bolts lead to cracks and flakes, then a strenuous last pitch through an overhanging corner and a bulge that goes at 6b+ or mostly on aid. Varied and less travelled than its neighbours.
6b+6 pitches145 m
Read the cautions
Croatia · Dabarski kukovi (Velebit)
Four steep and technical pitches of 6a to 6b+ followed by two easy ones up the water-runnelled top of Rujičin kuk. The hard climbing is on compact, less featured rock than Paklenica and relies on footwork, including two delicate traverses. A quiet inland crag that is far cooler than the coast in summer.
6b+6 pitches145 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Six pitches of steep wall and corner climbing up a pillar, almost never below 6a. Closely bolted and on good rock, so it works as a first 6b+ multipitch. The slightly overhanging slab on the last pitch catches out tired arms.
6b+6 pitches170 m
Italy · Sardinia
A sea-level start reached by abseil, then seven short pitches up the seaward face of Pedra Longa. The third pitch is a wildly exposed traverse above a line of roofs; two easy pitches on rock that needs care lead to a technical 6b and 6b+ finish on grey slab.
6b+7 pitches175 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.