Roca Alta · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) · Spain
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
Four varied pitches under and around the big roofs of the Roca Alta, the quieter wall above and west of the Roca dels Arcs. A start out of a tree, an overhang on big holds, a fine steep wall and a bouldery 6b+ finish, all of which can be eased by pulling on the close bolts.
The route
The Roca Alta sits at about 1200 m, higher and further from the road than the Roca dels Arcs, and sees far fewer climbers. Pornostar is its best-known sport route: short, steep and so well bolted that the 6b and 6b+ cruxes can be taken at about V+ and A0. Camptocamp grades it TD, 6b+ with 6a obligatory. It is often added after a route on the Roca dels Arcs. The longer walk is repaid by the setting.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b | 30 m | Climb about 4 m up the tree to clip the first bolt (a cord extends it), then straight up, a move left and back right to reach the grey slab on the right. 6b free for the first wall, about 6a if you use the quickdraw, then V to V+. Bolts were added here in 2021. |
| P2 | 6b | – | Through the overhang above: 6b on big holds, very closely bolted. |
| P3 | 6a | – | The fine steep wall that follows. |
| P4 | 6b+ | 20 m | A boulder problem (6b+, or A0 on two or three bolts), then an easy exit right at the last bolt. Leaving the aid is slightly awkward as you barn-door when you let go of the quickdraw. |
Getting there
From Vilanova de Meià take the L-913 north towards Terradets. The climbing is in the gorge about 5 km above the village. From Tremp, drive south to the Terradets dam, cross it towards Llimiana and follow the LV-9121 and then the L-913 over the pass; the first car park is about 20 km from the dam. For the Roca Alta you can either park at the Roca dels Arcs lay-bys and walk under that wall, or drive the track that leaves towards Rúbies, turn right where a sign reads 'Graells de la Roca Alta' and park about 500 m further on, with the Roca Alta in front of you. Reports on the state of that track vary from acceptable (2015) to too rough for a hire car (2017).
From the track parking, follow the path and then a cairned trail steeply up to the foot of the wall and go right along its base. Pass the gully that splits the wall; on the second section of wall there are two very large roofs, and the route starts under the right-hand one. From the Roca dels Arcs side, cross under the whole of that wall and climb up by its descent path. No source gives a time; parties describe the approach as a good deal longer than for the Roca dels Arcs.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 42966 (Roca Alta)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.02116, 1.02287 (crag)
Getting down
Either follow the path that goes right from the summit and returns to the foot of the route, or abseil the route, which camptocamp says works perfectly; a 2015 party did it in two abseils with 50 m ropes. One party returned over the top of the Roca Alta.
Retreat
Easy to bail
The route is abseiled as a normal descent and is only four pitches long. With two 50 m ropes a party came down in two abseils.
Safety
Sun and weather
Due south at about 1200 m: good for most of the year except summer. Snow lay on the summit for a February 2009 party. Outings are logged from February to June and from September to November.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws. Two 50 m ropes if you abseil. Cams are no longer needed for the start since the 2021 bolts; before that parties placed one in the break above the first bolt.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Pornostar.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.
6b+4 pitches160 m
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
The easy classic of Vilanova de Meià, on the small wall opposite the Roca dels Arcs: four short pitches on the horizontal strata and rounded knobs typical of the area. Popular and now very polished, above all on the first pitch, where the old grade of IV+ feels stiff.
5c4 pitches100 m
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
The best of the easier lines on the Paret de Zaratustra: steep climbing on big horizontal holds, a very vertical wall on the long second pitch and an overhanging 6a finish. Less polished than Txubascos Baskos next door, but with longer gaps between some bolts.
6a4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Six steep, physical pitches on the right-hand side of the Roca dels Arcs, with a hard pull or two on every one: bouldery starts, big overhangs on jugs and little difference in effort between the 6a and the 6b pitches. Sport-bolted, which is unusual on this wall. Grades feel tight.
6b+6 pitches170 m
Around 6b+ · about 4 pitches
Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
Sustained slab climbing up a striking black streak, clearly visible from the pass, on surprisingly good rock for this face. The crux is a move from slab into a corner on P2.
6b+4 pitches105 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
Three friendly pitches up a striking arched flake and compact slabs, then a short wall with one hard, reachy move that most people pull through. A 1980 route by the Savonittos and Alessandro Gogna, and the usual first half of a link-up with Gli Schiavi della Pietra on the spur above.
6b+4 pitches90 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
A big line up the full height of the Bomberos wall: a 40 m tufa pitch that is a popular climb in its own right, easy broken ground, a steeper 6a, and a long, steep, technical 6b+ wall to finish. The top pitch cannot be aided past its crux, so this is a route for a solid 6b+ leader.
6b+4 pitches155 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Montanejos
Four steep pitches up the orange wall of the Paredón del Alguacil, on pockets and big holds on vertical to gently overhanging rock. The second pitch is the one parties rave about; the third has the 6b+ move on smaller holds near its end. Short, sustained and sunny, with a 43 m first pitch.
6b+4 pitches115 m
Committing
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.