Paret de Zaratustra · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) · Spain
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
The easy classic of Vilanova de Meià, on the small wall opposite the Roca dels Arcs: four short pitches on the horizontal strata and rounded knobs typical of the area. Popular and now very polished, above all on the first pitch, where the old grade of IV+ feels stiff.
The route
The Paret de Zaratustra is the roadside wall lower down the gorge from the Roca dels Arcs, with short multipitch routes that are bolted far more generously than the big wall above. Txubascos Baskos is the most climbed of them and the usual first route for visitors: four pitches of about 20 to 30 m, graded 5c on camptocamp with 5b obligatory. The rock is excellent, but years of traffic have polished it; a Catalan party in 2014 called it extremely polished and did not recommend it, while a French party in 2024 still found it a pleasant introduction. Go in knowing that the first pitch is slippery.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5+ | 30 m | Slightly leftwards on horizontal strata, about IV+ with a move of V+ to reach the belay, which is shared with Parachutti di Colori. Very polished. |
| P2 | 5a | 25 m | Diagonally left, then straight up (V and IV+). The rock changes from strata to big rounded knobs. |
| P3 | 4+ | 25 m | Straight up on strata again, easier than pitch 1 (IV+). |
| P4 | 5+ | 20 m | From belay 3 follow the bolts on the left, up the left-hand rib of the summit facet; the line straight above belongs to the route on the right. The V+ move is short. |
Getting there
From Vilanova de Meià take the L-913 north towards Terradets. The climbing is in the gorge about 5 km above the village. From Tremp, drive south to the Terradets dam, cross it towards Llimiana and follow the LV-9121 and then the L-913 over the pass; the first car park is about 20 km from the dam. For the Paret de Zaratustra use the large dirt car park beside the road below the wall, lower down the gorge than the Roca dels Arcs lay-bys.
About 15 minutes. Park at the big dirt car park beside the road below the wall, which looks like a small quarry. Facing it, take the path that starts on the right and climb along the foot of the cliff, past the first sector (Enigma). The route starts on the right edge of the next sector, Primavera, with its name painted at the foot. In November 2024 the path was overgrown and the start hard to find; the party located it by the red bolts of the neighbouring Parachutti di Colori.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 156090 (Paret de Zaratustra)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.01704, 1.03970 (crag)
Getting down
By abseil; several lines are used. A 2015 party went down in two abseils with 60 m ropes on belays with chains and rings. A 2014 party abseiled belay 4 to 3, 3 to 2, then straight down from belay 2 to a big terrace with a tree and made a last short abseil from the tree. A 2024 party with 2×50 m made three abseils down the route Julia, further left, and found its anchors old and well rusted. Camptocamp also mentions diagonal abseils down the route itself.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Abseiling is the normal way down and the belays have chains and rings, so you can retreat from any stance. The line is diagonal and the wall has trees, which is why parties use several different abseil lines.
Safety
Sun and weather
Camptocamp gives a south aspect; a July 2014 report says the wall stays in shade until about midday, so it probably faces a little west of south. Climbed in the logged outings from October to June. In mid-May 2015 a party started at 7:00 because 38°C was forecast.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) are not available yet
What to carry
10 quickdraws. Two ropes for the abseils (60 m is the figure most reports give). A prusik or other back-up is advised on the abseils.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Txubascos Baskos.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.
6b+4 pitches160 m
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
The best of the easier lines on the Paret de Zaratustra: steep climbing on big horizontal holds, a very vertical wall on the long second pitch and an overhanging 6a finish. Less polished than Txubascos Baskos next door, but with longer gaps between some bolts.
6a4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four varied pitches under and around the big roofs of the Roca Alta, the quieter wall above and west of the Roca dels Arcs. A start out of a tree, an overhang on big holds, a fine steep wall and a bouldery 6b+ finish, all of which can be eased by pulling on the close bolts.
6b+4 pitches150 m
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Six steep, physical pitches on the right-hand side of the Roca dels Arcs, with a hard pull or two on every one: bouldery starts, big overhangs on jugs and little difference in effort between the 6a and the 6b pitches. Sport-bolted, which is unusual on this wall. Grades feel tight.
6b+6 pitches170 m
Around 5c · about 4 pitches
France · Gorges de la Jonte
The pillar that gives the sector its name, climbed in four short pitches on grey, well-featured rock. The third pitch is a sustained vertical crack and the best of the route. It is the usual first multipitch for visitors because the bolts are closer than elsewhere in the gorge.
5c4 pitches100 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The best-known route on the Mallo Colorado. Two steep, juggy panza pitches have a well-protected boulder move, giving a short taste of real Riglos steepness at a friendly grade.
5c4 pitches150 m
Italy · Monte Argentario
Four pitches on the sea-facing wall of Capo d'Uomo: a featured slab, an easy linking pitch, and two vertical, athletic pitches on sculpted grey limestone to the crest below the old watchtower. The final wall is the highlight. The lower pitches need care with holds.
5c4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Slovenia · Osp
The easiest line on Osp's famous overhanging Big Wall, following an obvious right-slanting ramp, the only non-overhanging part of the face. It is in shade until about 11:30 in July.
5c4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.