Éperon du chemin du Roy (Contrefort de Roche Robert) · Cerces · France
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A friendly six-pitch route on the lower buttress of Roche Robert, half an hour above the Lautaret road. Sustained grade 4 on good limestone, with slabs, a chimney and two steeper steps of 5a to 5b near the top. Stances are big ledges and there is little exposure, so it suits a first multipitch.
The route
The Éperon du chemin du Roy is the south-facing lower cliff of Roche Robert, directly above the road between Le Monêtier-les-Bains and the Col du Lautaret. The Voie des Quarante is its easiest classic: six pitches of sustained grade 4 with moves of 5a and 5b, on good rock with large comfortable ledges at every belay. It was fully rebolted with stainless glue-ins in 2026. Three or four routes share stances and cross here, including Che Guevaroux just to the left and the Faux-cil just to the right, so the line needs a little attention. The walk-off is quick, and many parties climb two routes in the day.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4c | The grey slab, then slanting left to a comfortable belay right beside that of Che Guevaroux. |
| P2 | 5a | The first bolt is shared with Che Guevaroux, then go right up a slab to a terrace at the foot of a chimney, a belay shared with the Faux-cil. Pitches 1 and 2 together are under 50 m. |
| P3 | 4c | Straight up the chimney. Take a little care with the rock here. |
| P4 | 4c/5a | Continue a little in the chimney, then exit right on a good vertical flake to a belay shared with the Faux-cil. A more direct bolted variant goes straight up from the middle of the pitch; parties who followed the new bolts in 2026 found it nearer 5b. |
| P5 | 5b | In line above: one move above the belay and a steeper one at the exit. Belay on the right. |
| P6 | 5b | Straight above the belay, a short steep passage, then straight on above the ledge to the top belay. A variant exit is possible half-way up the pitch. |
Getting there
From Briançon drive up the Guisane valley on the D1091 towards the Col du Lautaret. Park in the lay-by below the cliff, about 1 km above the Pont de l'Alpe car park and 6 km below the col on the Briançon side (an emergency telephone post marks the spot). The Briançon to Grenoble coach (ZOU 55) crosses the Col du Lautaret.
About 30 minutes. From the lay-by a clear path climbs straight up through larch wood, crosses the level Chemin du Roy and reaches the foot of the south-east spur of the buttress. The route starts up a grey slab from a wide flat area between the wall and a very large detached block, and has its name written at the foot. Che Guevaroux starts on a vague rib just to the left, the Faux-cil 2 m to the right.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Le Pont de l'Alpe car park (camptocamp waypoint 104581); the usual lay-by for this buttress is on the D1091 about 1 km further up
Point from camptocamp waypoint 42393 (Éperon du chemin du Roy)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 45.02691, 6.45865 (crag) · Parking: 45.01804, 6.46612
Getting down
On foot, 15 to 20 minutes to the base. From the top belay, minding the loose stones lying there, climb a steep path for about 50 m of height, then go left (north) and descend to the foot of the cliff. Two short exposed passages on the edge of a ravine can be avoided through the boulders on the right. Abseiling the routes of this buttress is advised against because of traverses, snagging and parties below.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Every belay is a bolted ledge and pitches 1 and 2 together are under 50 m, so retreating from the lower belays on a single 50 m rope in short abseils is feasible. Camptocamp advises against abseiling on this buttress in general because ropes snag, the lines traverse and parties are often climbing below.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South facing at about 1770 to 2130 m. The buttress is climbable from late April or May to October and is a fallback when the weather is uncertain for the higher Cerces walls. It is hot on the first pitch if you start late in summer and very cold in a north wind. The route gets busy from 8:00 on fine summer days. Allow about 2 hours of climbing.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Cerces are not available yet
What to carry
10 quickdraws and a single 50 m rope. Slings to link the belay bolts. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Voie des Quarante.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.