Multipitch Atlas

X Capítulos

Sierra de Callosa, Redován (La Pancha) · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa) · Spain

Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high

Four long, steep pitches on dark red pocketed limestone on the left side of La Pancha, sustained at about 6a with a 6b third pitch through small roofs. The last pitch, with a roof at the start and a corner on good holds, is the favourite. Rock like new despite the route's age.

The Sierra de Callosa rising behind the houses of Redován; the La Pancha climbing sector is on this side of the range, a short walk above the villagePhoto: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

The Sierra de Callosa rising behind the houses of Redován; the La Pancha climbing sector is on this side of the range, a short walk above the villagePhoto: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6b
Pitches
4
Length
150 m
Approach
15 min
Aspect
S
South-facing
Rope
2×50 m, or 1×70 m

The route

Overview

X Capítulos climbs the left side of La Pancha, the limestone dome above Redován, in four pitches of 25 to 45 m. It is steadier than its grade of 6b suggests: the climbing is sustained around 6a on steep, pocketed rock, with one harder passage on pitch 3. Parties expecting polish from a one-star guidebook entry found none. It can be a little grassy after rain. The cliff is almost in the village, so the setting is urban, but the wall itself is impressive.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P16a45 mLong, steep and continuous without being hard: a good warm-up. Two small roofs, then a comfortable ledge. Some vegetation after rain. The 2017 party found it the hardest pitch.
P26a+25 mSlightly left, then straight up: technical, slabby and sustained. Hanging belay.
P36b35 mRight from the belay up a slab to a small roof, then slightly right to an easier roof and a ledge. Do not linger under the first roof.
P46a45 mLeft of the belay, a bouldery move over a roof, then an enjoyable section and an 8 m corner on good holds. Fairly easy until the final overhang.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Redován is a village in the Vega Baja, between Orihuela and Callosa de Segura. Drive to the sports centre (polideportivo) in the upper part of the village and use its car park.

On foot · about 15 min

15 to 20 minutes. From the sports centre take the marked path towards the foot of La Pancha. Before you reach the base of the dome, go left. The route is left of Tribo and just left of the main ledge, from which its start cannot be reached. The name is on a small metal plate at the foot.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

38.12040, -0.90393

Point from camptocamp waypoint 470941 (Redován)

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Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

By abseil. Camptocamp: three abseils with 50 m ropes. A March 2026 party notes one abseil of exactly 40 m. The 2017 report used the sector's descent line instead: from the top, facing the village, go left following cairns and arrows cut in the rock, make a short abseil to a ledge, continue left to a second abseil shared by all the routes of the sector, and walk back to the foot of La Pancha.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

The route is descended by abseil with 50 m ropes according to camptocamp, which implies the belays are rigged, but no source describes them one by one. Pitches 1 and 4 are 45 m, so a single rope will not get you down from part-way.

Retreat from
The belays at the top of pitches 1, 2 and 3 (inferred from the three-abseil descent).
Point of no return
None stated.
Carry
Two 50 m ropes; a few maillons in case a belay lacks a ring.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredCamptocamp states three abseils with 50 m ropes; that these use the route's own belays is inferred.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • The hanging belay at the top of pitch 2 is uncomfortable for a long wait.
  • The start is not reachable from the main ledge under La Pancha; go left before the base of the dome.
  • Seasonal ban next door: a sign at the crag prohibits climbing in the Botri and Los Cortaos sectors from 1 January to 30 June for nesting Bonelli's eagles (Decree 179/2004). La Pancha is outside the area drawn on the sign, but check the notice before you climb.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-facing at low altitude. Outings are logged from late February to April; it is a cool-season cliff and too hot from late spring. Grass grows on the route after wet spells.

Usual season · Jan to Apr, Nov to Dec

Sun on the wall · S-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C161820232631333329252017
Mean daily low °C56811141821211814106
Rain days 1 mm or more445542125554

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 27 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

15 to 16 quickdraws plus belay gear. Two 50 m ropes, or a single 70 m (used by the 2017 party; a commenter there says a 70 m single needs two abseils on the descent line where 60 m doubles need one). No cams or nuts needed.

Checklist

Quickdraws
16
Rope
2×50 m, or 1×70 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to X Capítulos.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Allow 2 to 3.5 hours.
  • The camptocamp author considers the Rockfax topo poor for this route.
  • Tribo (6b+), already in the atlas, starts just to the right and makes a logical second route.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Length: 150 m on camptocamp (its pitch lengths add up to exactly that), 160 m on Panoramicas360.
  • Quickdraws: 15 plus belays (camptocamp) against 16 (Panoramicas360).
  • Hardest pitch: graded 6b on pitch 3 by both sources, but the 2017 party found pitch 1 the hardest.
  • Descent: three abseils down the face with 50 m ropes (camptocamp) against the separate two-abseil descent line on the left (2017 report).

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.