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Chiricahua

Gran placa (Benavent de la Conca) · Serra de Comiols · Spain

Bail with caveats

A sustained, fine slab and wall route on steep conglomerate above Benavent de la Conca, with plenty of footholds but few positive handholds. The 6b+/6c second pitch is the crux; elsewhere it is 6a to 6a+, with short A0 sections on pitches 3 and 4. Climbing is banned from 15 February to 1 September.

Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.

The cliffs of the Serra de Comiols (Roc de Benavent) above the fields of Benavent de la Conca; the route's wall is in this cliff band, but the line is not markedPhoto: Gustau Erill i Pinyot · CC BY-SA 3.0
Hardest pitch
6c6c
Pitches
6
Length
170 m
Approach
15 min
Aspect
W
West-facing
Rope
Single rope
at least 60 m for the 30 m abseil on the descent

Highest point about 1200 m above sea level (camptocamp waypoint 1854473 (summit)).

Rock
conglomerate
Season
Jan, Sep to Dec
Bolting confidence
High
Last verified
October 2026 · Aggregated by AI from published sources

Photo

Climbing modeBig type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.

Overview

Chiricahua climbs the Gran placa, a steep slab of conglomerate on the west side of the Serra de Comiols above Benavent de la Conca. It is six pitches of about 30 m, mostly 6a to 6a+, with a sustained 6b+/6c wall on pitch 2 and short A0 sections on pitches 3 and 4, so the obligatory grade is about 6a/A0. The route is fully parabolted with rings at the belays, and the sources call it a fine route on good, cleaned rock in a beautiful setting. The rock is steep and hard to read: there are plenty of footholds but the handholds are rarely positive. Climbing is banned on this face from 15 February to 1 September.

Worth knowing

  • The obligatory grade is about 6a/A0: the crux wall on pitch 2 and the A0 sections on pitches 3 and 4 can be aided on the bolts.
  • Use long slings on the wandering pitches to reduce rope drag.
  • Park about 500 m before the end of the track; the walk-off comes out there.
  • The last two pitches can be linked (2009 report).

Pitch by pitch

The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Abella de la Conca (incl. Comiols, Roc de Benavent): free route topos (reseñas).

Pitches of Chiricahua
PitchGradeLengthNotes
P16a35 mClimb above the first panel of rock into a crack that leads out onto a grassy terrace, then a last delicate step. The rock is poorer in short sections on this pitch.
P26b+/6c30 mThe steep, sustained wall above the belay. The crux pitch (6b+/6c on camptocamp, 6b+ in a 2009 repeat; the overall grade is given as 6c). The bolt line sometimes leaves the easiest line, which makes some clips awkward.
P36a30 mStart left, then up a slab trending slightly right; pass a moulding at A0 (free at about V+/6a according to a 2009 repeat) and reach the belay on the right. A 2009 party notes an aided step at the end of the pitch too; climbing the small overhang free by traversing right is about 6a but leaves the last clipped bolt 3 m to your left, so clip the bolt line.
P46a+30 mA very steep step, then a slab trending slightly right; under the overhang go back left into a niche. A 2009 repeat places an A0 section on this pitch, about 6a+/6b free.
P56a30 mLeave the niche on the left up a sustained wall, then go right along an easy-angled slab to the belay on a wooded ledge (fixed rope).
P66a+30 mStraight up through a series of small overhangs, then a slab to the top; the belay is on the left. A 2009 party climbed the start using a tree. The last two pitches can be linked.

Approach

To the parking

Benavent de la Conca is a small village in the municipality of Isona i Conca Dellà (Pallars Jussà, Lleida), below the Coll de Comiols on the road between Artesa de Segre and Tremp. It has a stop on the Barcelona–La Pobla de Segur bus line, with one bus a day in each direction, but a car is much more practical.

On foot · about 15 min

In Benavent take the track towards the cemetery; before it climbs to the cemetery, carry straight on along the lower, level track for about 1 km until you are below the wall. Bloc Empotrat parked about 500 m before the end of the track, where there is more room and where the walk-off ends. From the end of the track go up through fields and then woods to the foot of the wall (about 15 min). There is no good path for the last part: expect some bushwhacking.

Map of the walk-in

Point from camptocamp waypoint 1854473 (Banavent Serra de Comiols); the route's own point is the same

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Contains the route point.

Points from published sources, not surveyed.

Descent

Walk off in about 30 min. Follow the ridge to the right for about 100 m (Bloc Empotrat: first fields and meadows, then a track) to a broad, obvious col. Go down the steep, very wooded gully below it (a cairn at the top, and some rubbish and two cairns in the first metres). It is easy downclimbing, with fixed ropes in fairly good condition in the steeper lower part and one 30 m abseil halfway down. Then pick your way through the woods and fields back to the car. A December 2025 party called the descent quick but adventurous. Alternatively, the belays are rigged for abseiling the route; take spare cord if you do.

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

Every belay is bolted and fitted with a ring and cord for abseiling, so you can retreat from any belay. The pitches are 30 to 35 m, so a single rope may not reach between belays; check your rope length, or carry a second rope. Bloc Empotrat suggests spare cord if you abseil, in case the cord at the belays needs replacing.

Retreat from
Any belay.
Point of no return
None stated; from the top, the walk-off is the normal way down.
Carry
A rope long enough for 35 m abseils (two ropes, or a single 70 m rope, inferred), plus spare cord or maillons.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredBloc Empotrat and a 2009 report state that the route is equipped for abseiling with a ring and cord at each belay; the rope advice is inferred from the camptocamp pitch lengths.

Spain

In an emergency

In an emergency · Spain

112Emergency

Call 112

Emergency

Position of the crag

42.08756, 1.11284

Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.

Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (source).

Hazards

  • Climbing is banned from 15 February to 1 September. Neither climbing source gives the reason; the Roc de Benavent cliffs are home to a vulture colony (visitpirineus; a 2009 report also mentions the vultures' nests on the walls), and the ban matches the nesting season (inferred). Respect it.
  • Short sections of less sound rock on pitch 1.
  • On pitch 3, climbing the small overhang free by traversing right leaves the last clipped bolt about 3 m to the side (2009 report); follow the bolts or aid it instead. On pitch 2 some clips are awkward because the bolt line leaves the easiest line.
  • The steep, rounded conglomerate is hard to read, and handholds are rarely positive.
  • There is no clear path for the last part of the approach.
  • The descent gully is steep and wooded, with fixed ropes and a 30 m abseil; route-finding in the woods at the bottom takes care.

Gear

15 quickdraws, some of them long to reduce rope drag. Single rope: Bloc Empotrat climbed on one rope without linking pitches. No cams or nuts are needed, and there is little room to place them anyway. An étrier can help on the A0 sections. Spare cord if you plan to abseil the route.

Checklist

Quickdraws
15
Rope
Single rope (at least 60 m for the 30 m abseil on the descent)
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
For abseiling
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat
Cord
Mentioned for retreat

Conditions

Plan B nearby

Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.

Reader reports

No reports yet.

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Bolts and history

Bolting
Fully equipped with parabolts (Bloc Empotrat); a 2009 repeat passed with quickdraws only, camptocamp rates the equipment P1 and a December 2025 party called it very well equipped. Every belay is bolted and fitted with a ring and cord for abseiling. Short aid sections (A0) on pitches 3 and 4 are climbed on the bolts; they go free at about 6a and 6a+/6b.
History
First climbed in September 2008 by Joan Vidal.
Guidebook
Abella de la Conca (incl. Comiols, Roc de Benavent): free route topos (reseñas) (La noche del loro). Free topo.

Where sources disagree

  • Length: camptocamp gives 170 m of climbing, but its pitch lengths add up to 185 m; a 2009 repeat gives 190 m.
  • Crux grade: camptocamp gives 6b+/6c for pitch 2 and 6c overall; a 2009 repeat gives 6b+ (MD+) and climbed every aid section free; Bloc Empotrat gives only the obligatory grade, 6a/A0.
  • Sun: camptocamp says the face is in the sun in the afternoon and suits summer mornings, but climbing is banned in summer. Bloc Empotrat says it is in the shade until about 14:00 to 15:00; the 2009 report says north-west facing with shade until 14:00.
  • Aid: camptocamp marks A0 on pitch 3 only; the 2009 report describes A0 on pitches 3 and 4 and aided steps at the end of pitch 3 and the start of pitch 6.

Sources

Around 6c · about 6 pitches

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Read the cautions

Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.